Flight Controls refinished

[Kefferch]

Had the help of my neighbor powder costing my controls while they were off for a modification. I'm moving my electric trim controls to the right thumb side because I'm a left hand amputee. I'll post finished product photos. 

[INA201]

Looks really good!  Was it relatively easy to do?

[Bob]

Looking to do mine in the near future.  Some details would be appreciated.

Did you bead blast?  If so, what media type?

Any undercoating or primer under the powder?

Powder type?

Any other tips?

Thanks!

[Piloto]

Woow!!! Love the looks

José

[Kefferch]

@INA201 - Yes it was pretty easy with the right tools.  Used a steel brush grinder to take off that plastic coating and knock off the corrosion.  Sanded it down by hand a bit and also used air disc grinder sander fine grit pads from Harbor freight.

@Bob - Nope didn't bead blast, was worried that it'd prolly pit the aluminum but I may try it when I take the other one off.  I'll let you know how that goes.  No undercoating under the powder and I got the powder coat from Harbor Freight for $6.  I was gonna put a coat of clear on it but I ended up really liking the flat look.  Did 2 coats of powder and baked it at 400 for 20 minutes each time.

@Piloto - Thank you!!  I'm pleased with it as well!

 

Here's my new baby.  Got her last week... haven't had time to post a picture.  I'm new to the forum.

 

[Guest]

I'd glass bead blast it before I'd use a steel wire wheel on aluminum.

Clarence

[Kefferch]

I'll give glass bead a try on the 2nd flight controls @M20Doc

[Yetti]

of stainless brush.   Supposedly the metal brush will leave some steel in the aluminum and start the rusting process.....

[Kefferch]

It can't rust if it's been powder coated though.

[RLCarter]

Powder Coating is very durable, but as far rusting or corrosion starting under the coating, it can. The yokes are cast aluminum, I strppied the original coating off with MEK, acid etched, conversion coat (zink primer), painted then wrapped them in leather. The only reason I spent the time to go to all the trouble was once they are covered the corrosion can not be seen before it is too late. I considered powder coating but the older yokes are fairly skinny compared to the new style

[jetdriven]

You need to etch, alodine, and prime those before painting. Powder existing can hide cracks until the part fails or is damaged.  Are we sure those yokes aren't magnesium?  They require a different process and even more care to finish properly. 

[Kefferch]

Am I understanding right that I may run into problems with the method I used?  I'm thinking this solid piece of aluminum will last quite awhile and its protected even more now that it's powder coated.

[ArtVandelay]

I think if powder coating retains adhesion and doesn't crack, then you should be fine, no oxygen, no corrosion. If it cracks or starts to form bubbles, then you'll need it redo it.

[carusoam]

the powder coating probably is not an oxygen barrier.  Oxidation can still occur.  It will be nicely hidden for a while.  

it will be in a nice dry environment though.  The coating won't be a moisture barrier either.  Molecules can still seep in.

This is the reason for proper surface treatments prior to painting aluminum surfaces. Not all polymer coatings provide barrier properties.  They are pretty good at keeping rain off of things.

This probably explains what happened to the first coating that was on there.  The polymer didn't seem to adhere to the metal casting.  Surface oxidation spread lifting the coating away...

This is only a best guess based on the photos posted.  Knowing that plastics are often expect to be impervious to water, oil, and oxygen. They just aren't that good.  Unless you pay extra for that trait.

Your yokes look great.

Best regards,

-a-

[LANCECASPER]

1 hour ago, Kefferch said:

Am I understanding right that I may run into problems with the method I used?  I'm thinking this solid piece of aluminum will last quite awhile and its protected even more now that it's powder coated.

Yours should be fine for awhile. The oils and acids from people's hands are the most corrosive, that's why you see the pilot's yoke always in much worse shape that the co-pilots. Paint or powder coat works for awhile, but most people that go through all the work of removing them and splicing wires and re-installing go with the leather covers for a "permanent" solution.

 

[Guest]

On September 11, 2016 at 5:47 PM, Kefferch said:

It can't rust if it's been powder coated though.

Steel bit lodged in the aluminum yoke can get dis-similar metal corrosion.  Very common in aviation.

Clarence

[ArtVandelay]

On September 11, 2016 at 5:47 PM, Kefferch said: It can't rust if it's been powder coated though.

Steel bit lodged in the aluminum yoke can get dis-similar metal corrosion.  Very common in aviation.

Clarence

Especially since we use the frame, engine to conduct electricity.