Skates97 Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 5 hours ago, Hyett6420 said: All the best people are mate. But wasnt learning to write with a pen such a pain in the arse, all that smudged ink, and as for cheque books or ring binders! Having said that we just learn to adapt. Apparently left handed people are just brilliant in all things, it must be true i read it on the internet. My oldest son is a lefty. Best quote I have heard was another lefty, gentleman about 70 years old tell my son "Lefty's designed the world for right handed people because they need the extra help." 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 (edited) 13 hours ago, Raptor05121 said: Finished my first page with the Mooney. Lots of "mosts". Most time logged with a single page, most landings in a page, most night time in a page, etc. Raptor--you may want to make a Mooney column. Every renewal, they want to know time in "make and model." I have a spreadsheet with too many pages for my flying data, including one sheet where I track each plane I've flown by N number, make and model. There's also an insurance page with the hours they want every year, and for fun I list hours for each model on the other page (with the time periods they ask for), so it's easy for me to get Comolex, HP and Mooney time every year. My transition CFI started the Mooney column, I just wish I had started the breakdown sheet earlier than I did . . . Learn from my mistake. P.S.--I lump all of my Mooney time together, 600-700 in my plane and another 6-8 in a buddy's F. Edited December 28, 2016 by Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skates97 Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 3 hours ago, Hank said: Raptor--you may want to make a Mooney column. Every renewal, they want to know time in "make and model." I have a spreadsheet with too many pages for my flying data, including one sheet where I track each plane I've flown by N number, make and model. There's also an insurance page with the hours they want every year, and for fun I list hours for each model on the other page (with the time periods they ask for), so it's easy for me to get Comolex, HP and Mooney time every year. My transition CFI started the Mooney column, I just wish I had started the breakdown sheet earlier than I did . . . Learn from my mistake. P.S.--I lump all of my Mooney time together, 600-700 in my plane and another 6-8 in a buddy's F. Hank, I started using MyFlightBook which seems to do what the spreadsheet you built does. It has options for tracking just about everything under the sun if you want to and will also keep track of airports you've been to, how many times, first visit/last visit, and put them on a map. I started using it a little after I started flying and like it. I still keep my paper log book for backup and the endorsements, but it even has an option for instructors to input your endorsements if you want. http://myflightbook.com/logbook/Member/Logbook.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted December 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 I've got 2 hours in a Comanche, so my Mooney time is my complex, minus 2 hours. I also use a web-based backup, usually update it every page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Plane has about 55 hours on it so far since coming out of annual about 3 months ago. Next week I will be doing an oil and filter change, sending an oil sample off, and cutting open the oil filter. A couple of quirks so far- The MP Gauge is still sticking. My A&P cleaned it out at annual and said there was a clear oil-type substance in the line blocking it. He cleaned it out and that fixed it for a few hours. It's still laggish. Quick power changes require 30 seconds for the needle to catch up. The plane is harder to start, the electric fuel pump is also a bit sluggish. Only getting 2psi on startup for the first flight of the day so the prop has to swing a few times before it catches. Getting 4-6psi on the mechanical pump. When the mech pumps is showing 4psi, I can flick on the electric pump and it comes right up to 6psi. Also, possibly related is the fuel selector is *weeping*. Slight fuel smell and the bottom of the face is slightly wet if I touch it. I'm wondering if the elec fuel pump is sucking air through the fuel selector causing the slow to start symptoms. So likely going to replace the O-rings on the selector and poss sending elec fuel pump for repair. Big-"ish" item- The artificial horizon is getting slower to respond. Today in flight, it was level, but showing a 10-degree turn to the left with the plane level. It is slowly becoming more and more inaccurate. Suction is good and I've also tried my backup suction and is not fixing the error. I only fly in CAVU weather so its not I am doing IFR training yet, but another item to have sent out. The tires are getting noticeable less tread on the center. You can tell the plane is being flown. No cracks or cords, just normal wear. IIRC the nose is at 45psi and the mains are at 40. A bit on the high side but my IA agree's with Mike Busch that a few over is better than a few under. I'm keeping track of these. They are only I think 3 years old? But the mains do not match. One is a 4-tread Aero Trainer and the other is a 6-tread tire made for grass or something. Its still a 6x6.00 but its not a "flat" tread, more rounded on the top. I would love to have them match but more want than need right this second. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Your tire pressure is too high, 30 psi by memory. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 1 hour ago, Hyett6420 said: @Raptor05121 you can probably do the fuel pump yourself, they are not that comlicated for a man ofr your skills. The importwnt bit is making sure it seals well when put back together. Andrew Apart from probably not being anywhere near legal from the FAA's standpoint and my experience of fuel pumps being....nothing. I think I'll defer this safety item to someone with more qualifications 3 minutes ago, M20Doc said: Your tire pressure is too high, 30 psi by memory. Clarence I'll have to double-check. It looks low sitting at 45. 30 makes it look like its flat just about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigers2007 Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Mine has "30 PSI" placarded on the main retract doors. I wonder if 45 would be too stiff and thus lesson the "cushioning" properties of the tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Yep, pressure for my C is 30 psi on all tires. It's right there in the Owners Manual clip above, too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 (edited) Mains should be 30 or 33 with the allowable 10% difference. I think that 6 ply is the legal ones for the mains. Type data sheet is your friend here. http://www.67m20e.com/Mooney TCDS 2A3 Rev 52 dtd 9DEC10.pdf Edited February 11, 2017 by Yetti 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxrpilot Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 pilotpartner.net This is an awesome electronic log book. You'll get year end summaries, can add pictures, CFI can electronically sign, plots all your airports on a Google Maps view... etc. Don't dig the hole deeper by continuing to log on paper. Love the camera angle. The GoPro Session camera's are just the right size to mount anywhere you like with the GoPro sticky mount. I thing the best angles are, high on the vertical stab (keep it close to a rivet line to avoid vibration), out on the forward outside edge of the horizontal stab, and on the tail skid. It's really cool to see the gear retract and extend. Note that the the sticky mounts stick better in the cold than in the hot. And carry a bit of fishing line or dental floss in your pocket so if ever questioned during a ramp check, you can demo how easy it is to remove and thus "temporary". I've been ramp checked and no mention was made of the three sticky mounts on my airplane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinwing Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 About that fuel pump...no you cannot legally change it out yourself.....what you can do is what half the shops in the us do including Laser...change it your self under direct supervision of another a/p //AI....which is how a lot of them recorded the 1500 hrs for their own A/P ticket.." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Over the weekend I saw an M20F with lots of baffle work with high-temp RTV silicone in small areas and he says he has excellent cooling so its given me hope to help seal up my baffles. I'm going to try and seal up as much small stuff as I can, but I think 60% of my cooling problems is directly under the starter/alternator area where pressurized air is going directly into the low-pressure cowl area. Does anyone know where I can get that cloth material I see everyone using to seal that up? What tools will I need to patch it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 There was felt sealing around my C's starter and generator. It was 50 years old and didn't work anymore. Without a JPI, I had no idea how bad it really was. Recently, our silicone expert/purveyor mentioned he could build seals for this area. Just need to remember what his name is..... Try a search for silicone baffle seals, he should show up easily... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N6758N Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 8 hours ago, Raptor05121 said: Over the weekend I saw an M20F with lots of baffle work with high-temp RTV silicone in small areas and he says he has excellent cooling so its given me hope to help seal up my baffles. I'm going to try and seal up as much small stuff as I can, but I think 60% of my cooling problems is directly under the starter/alternator area where pressurized air is going directly into the low-pressure cowl area. Does anyone know where I can get that cloth material I see everyone using to seal that up? What tools will I need to patch it up? Alex, Go to home depot and get yourself some of this stuff. It works wonders, seal up any gaps or holes in your baffling with it and I bet you will notice an immediate reduction in CHTs on takeoff. https://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-Clear-Kitchen-and-Bath-Silicone-Caulk/19902080?action=product_interest&action_type=title&beacon_version=1.0.2&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&client_guid=df44f066-21b2-418f-88fc-ddfad0cc3c2f&config_id=106&customer_id_enc&findingMethod=p13n&guid=df44f066-21b2-418f-88fc-ddfad0cc3c2f&item_id=19902080&parent_anchor_item_id=19902079&parent_item_id=19902079&placement_id=irs-106-m2&reporter=recommendations&source=new_site&strategy=PWVAV&visitor_id=RNFT8Du994B7Gwwv1zC6xI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabremech Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 4 hours ago, N6758N said: Alex, Go to home depot and get yourself some of this stuff. It works wonders, seal up any gaps or holes in your baffling with it and I bet you will notice an immediate reduction in CHTs on takeoff. https://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-Clear-Kitchen-and-Bath-Silicone-Caulk/19902080?action=product_interest&action_type=title&beacon_version=1.0.2&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&client_guid=df44f066-21b2-418f-88fc-ddfad0cc3c2f&config_id=106&customer_id_enc&findingMethod=p13n&guid=df44f066-21b2-418f-88fc-ddfad0cc3c2f&item_id=19902080&parent_anchor_item_id=19902079&parent_item_id=19902079&placement_id=irs-106-m2&reporter=recommendations&source=new_site&strategy=PWVAV&visitor_id=RNFT8Du994B7Gwwv1zC6xI Unless Walmart has gotten into the Aviation market, I'd suggest RTV 726. You'll find a source to purchase this by asking Dr. Google. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike20papa Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 18 hours ago, Raptor05121 said: .... I'm going to try and seal up as much small stuff as I can, but I think 60% of my cooling problems is directly under the starter/alternator area where pressurized air is going directly into the low-pressure cowl area. Does anyone know where I can get that cloth material I see everyone using to seal that up? What tools will I need to patch it up? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/felt.php?clickkey=3912 Wool Felt sold by AC Spruce, pop rivets, sht. mtl. screws. I need a better photo of the work around the alternator, maybe I can find one. My CHT's always below 390. The area around the prop gov. oil line & alt. bracket the most difficult to seal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Well I found a nice roll of 4"x6' silicon rubber baffling sealer in the box of goodies the previous owner left me, and I folded it upon itself and stuffed it REALLY tight in between the alternator and cowling. That was a BIG area shooting air straight into the lower cowling from the inlet. It's not as nice as that riveted felt as pictured above, but it will surely help raise the pressure differential. I also bought some red silicone (good for 650*F) and sealed up all the various holes in the cowling. It looks silly with all the red smears and dots all over. Also, the back of the doghouse was LOOSE. I found empty screw holes that holds the doghouse to the back of the #3 and #4 cylinders, so I found some screws and tightened that up, it should help force air between the fins and most importantly. hit the deflectors below which push air around the bottom of the cylinders. Also, I replaced some screws and added washers on some of the splits so they are flush. As darkness fell, I had the GF shine a flashlight and not a SPECK of light was coming out of the other side. I'm going up for a test flight tomorrow, I'm really excited to see how well it works! Maybe santa can bring me that guppy enclosure. (Anyone have one lying around???) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Operation 'Cool Cylinders' was a success. 5 hours of work has netted me about a 20-30 degree cooler reading per the stock #3 CHT gauge. At 120MIAS, it was barely below 400 whereas before, it would be about 420. In cruise, it's down to 350 whereas it used to be at 380. Awesome! 350-360*F cruise. This used to be 380*+ 120MIAS climb. This value used to be 420*F 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradp Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Alex take a small (like 3/4 in by 1/2 in) piece of your left over bafeling material and jam it behind the back fins of #3 and the doghouse aluminum. It creates additional airflow along the back wall and brings down number 3 by and additional 10-20F. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 1 hour ago, bradp said: Alex take a small (like 3/4 in by 1/2 in) piece of your left over bafeling material and jam it behind the back fins of #3 and the doghouse aluminum. It creates additional airflow along the back wall and brings down number 3 by and additional 10-20F. Picture please! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 On February 22, 2017 at 5:52 PM, mike20papa said: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/felt.php?clickkey=3912 Wool Felt sold by AC Spruce, pop rivets, sht. mtl. screws. I need a better photo of the work around the alternator, maybe I can find one. My CHT's always below 390. The area around the prop gov. oil line & alt. bracket the most difficult to seal. Nice work on the felt sealing. I'd suggest some safety wire on the alternator tension arm bolts though. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DXB Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 BTW I also did a thorough sealing job around my starter and alternator recently - see below. My problem child cylinder before doing this was #2 in cruise, not #3, despite 3 running leaner. Sadly the work seems to have made zero difference. Anyone have any experience or advice on cooling #2? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 LED retrofit step 1: Dome light. I bought a simple 1156 red LED with a 90-degree swivel head base. It fits good and even though the beam is narrow, the frosted glass lens of the dome socket spreads it quite well. Its BRIGHT in the back seat, but what I bought it for, backup flood function for the instrument panel, is not too bright and not too dim. Best of all, no more heat! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 Part 2: Map lights Even easier than what Hector and the other fellow did. I simply took some pliers to twist off the focusing ring and lens, pulled them out, then used a flathead to remove the red lens retaining ring and lens itself. Bend the tabs back on the 1156 socket, push it into place, and then reinstall the red lens and retaining clip. Simple, took me 30 seconds! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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