Brandontwalker Posted September 4, 2015 Author Report Posted September 4, 2015 Nice math... Here is a photo of my oil temp at 10,500. The air temp and other parameters are in the picture, so you can do all the extra calculations. Looks like 191°F and 73 PSI. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Nice panel.
Marauder Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 Nice panel. Thanks! It has changed a bit since the photo was taken. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Shadrach Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 Thanks! It has changed a bit since the photo was taken. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk That panel is sweet! The tube socks and short shorts really bring it all together though! 1
Bob_Belville Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 Tempted to cover up the tach & MAP gauges that disagree with the EDM?
Marauder Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 That panel is sweet! The tube socks and short shorts really bring it all together though! For a real fashion statement I should have shared one with my compression socks on! Like this! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Marauder Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 Tempted to cover up the tach & MAP gauges that disagree with the EDM? Actually they agree pretty closely. What did struggle once with is what if anything I should do if either of the primary tach or MP functions failed on any of them. Since they are both considered primary, if my EI tach stopped working, am I still legal to fly since the JPI is also primary? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1
Zwaustin Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 (edited) My factory oil temp gauge appeared to read very hot... I didn't trust it so I got a oil temp probe added to my JPI edm700.... runs in the 180-190 range and no more than 200 on very hot days in afternoon TX weather... Shortly thereafter the factory oil temp gauge started going from very hot to the far left position sporadically. It wasn't reliable from the get go when I acquired the plane. **update, recent trip to Arizona in high heat oil temp got up to 206 degrees F in September** Edited September 12, 2015 by Zwaustin
PaulB Posted September 6, 2015 Report Posted September 6, 2015 My factory oil temp gauge appeared to read very hot... I didn't trust it so I got a oil temp probe added to my JPI edm700.... runs in the 180-190 range and no more than 200 on very hot days in afternoon TX weather... Shortly thereafter the factory oil temp gauge started going from very hot to the far left position sporadically. It wasn't reliable from the get go when I acquired the plane. I suspect this is what I'm going to find when I get my oil temp on my JPI which raises the question of the legality of an inaccurate oil temp gauge. Is it like the fuel indicators and that they only have to be accurate when empty? Or in the case of oil temp too hot?
Bob_Belville Posted September 6, 2015 Report Posted September 6, 2015 Actually they agree pretty closely. What did struggle once with is what if anything I should do if either of the primary tach or MP functions failed on any of them. Since they are both considered primary, if my EI tach stopped working, am I still legal to fly since the JPI is also primary? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Two primaries sound like an oxymoron. 1
Marauder Posted September 6, 2015 Report Posted September 6, 2015 Two primaries sound like an oxymoron. I guess thats better than just being a moron.
carusoam Posted September 6, 2015 Report Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) The minimum equipment list defines that you need a proper instrument mounted in the proper way with all the proper paperwork and log entries... it doesn't say which one specifically. It may be specific to where it is located (not out of view). When you have all that, fly on... -a- Edited September 6, 2015 by carusoam
tony Posted September 6, 2015 Report Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) On 9/4/2015 at 10:26 AM, Brandontwalker said: Negative Tony. After the initial warm-up, pressure remains steady. At that temp you should see a pressure drop. I'm guessing your pressure gauge is not reading correctly. When I was in your situation, not trusting my oil temp gauge, I pulled out the temp transducer (its right there in the oil filter adapter). Got myself an electric burner with a small pot full of water. I put the transducer in the water and started to chart the temp of the water vs what I was seeing on the gauge inside the cockpit. I used a candy thermometer to measure the water temp. Edited January 23, 2016 by tony
Guest Posted September 6, 2015 Report Posted September 6, 2015 At that temp you should see a pressure drop. I'm guessing your pressure gauge is not reading correctly. When I was in your situation, not trusting my oil temp gauge, I pulled out the temp transducer (its right there in the oil filter adapter). Got myself an electric burner with a small pot full of water. I put the transducer in the water and started to chart the temp of the water vs what I was seeing on the gauge inside the cockpit. I used a candy thermometer to measure the water temp. Or I can look for the old transducer I had to replace when I put in my MVP-50. Or there is not a temperature issue other than the indication. Clarence
LANCECASPER Posted January 14, 2016 Report Posted January 14, 2016 On 9/3/2015 at 0:22 PM, Brandontwalker said: Good afternoon. I am looking for some insight from my fellow Mooney fanatics. I am new to the Mooney world and am having issues with the oil temp. At level cruise, my oil temps are creeping above the green arc and approaching the red line (245 degrees). I can pull the cowl flaps to half and it cools right down to normal operation range. It has been extremely hot outside in Alabama recently, but the problem persists even at level cruise at 9,500 feet with an OAT of ~60 Degrees Fahrenheit. I have exhausted the options I am aware of (except one which will be put into action tomorrow) and need some new ideas. Thus far, we have been chasing our tails. Cylinders 2 & 4 (same side of the engine as the oil cooler) had an exhaust gas leak which has been fixed. My A&P and I have removed and flushed the oil cooler (flow is good and fins are straight), rebaffled the side of the engine with the oil cooler, A&P inspected and tested the vernatherm and it checked good. Last idea is to put in a new vernatherm, which is on the way now and will be installed tomorrow. I have seen some forum talk about potentially having cracked cylinder heads, but all compressions are over 75 and this does not seem to be the case. If the new vernatherm does not resolve the issue, then what? Did this issue ever get resolved? I recently had a similar experience in an M20M, only that the ship's gauge was showing a normal oil temperature (+/- 200) but the JPI EDM 700 was flashing 244. The CHT's were normal, the Oil Pressure was normal at 75, I immediately opened the cowl flaps completely and there was no change in oil temp on the JPI, but slight drop on the ship's oil temp gauge. I am thinking that the JPI probe is not giving a correct reading since the ship's gauge and JPI have always been very close in agreement.
Brandontwalker Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Posted January 14, 2016 On 9/3/2015 at 0:22 PM, Brandontwalker said: Good afternoon. I am looking for some insight from my fellow Mooney fanatics. I am new to the Mooney world and am having issues with the oil temp. At level cruise, my oil temps are creeping above the green arc and approaching the red line (245 degrees). I can pull the cowl flaps to half and it cools right down to normal operation range. It has been extremely hot outside in Alabama recently, but the problem persists even at level cruise at 9,500 feet with an OAT of ~60 Degrees Fahrenheit. I have exhausted the options I am aware of (except one which will be put into action tomorrow) and need some new ideas. Thus far, we have been chasing our tails. Cylinders 2 & 4 (same side of the engine as the oil cooler) had an exhaust gas leak which has been fixed. My A&P and I have removed and flushed the oil cooler (flow is good and fins are straight), rebaffled the side of the engine with the oil cooler, A&P inspected and tested the vernatherm and it checked good. Last idea is to put in a new vernatherm, which is on the way now and will be installed tomorrow. I have seen some forum talk about potentially having cracked cylinder heads, but all compressions are over 75 and this does not seem to be the case. If the new vernatherm does not resolve the issue, then what? Did this issue ever get resolved? I recently had a similar experience in an M20M, only that the ship's gauge was showing a normal oil temperature (+/- 200) but the JPI EDM 700 was flashing 244. The CHT's were normal, the Oil Pressure was normal at 75, I immediately opened the cowl flaps completely and there was no change in oil temp on the JPI, but slight drop on the ship's oil temp gauge. I am thinking that the JPI probe is not giving a correct reading since the ship's gauge and JPI have always been very close in agreement. I will give a qualified answer of maybe. We replaced the vernatherm with a new one to no avail. After that did not work, I trailed each cowl flap by approximately 1/2 inch. This seems to have the oil temperatures under control and running well below the midway point on the green arc. I believe that trailing the cowl flaps has more than likely resolved the issue. However, I am reluctant to give an absolute answer as the temperature is when this problem was occurring or well into the 90s and the flaps were not trailed until late fall. We will see how it does in the summer. In the meantime, I will be installing a JPI 900 so I can keep better tabs on engine management. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Brandontwalker Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Posted January 14, 2016 One thing I would note, if opening the cowl flaps all the way only resulted and I slight drop on the ship temperature gauge, I would lean more toward looking at the oil cooler, baffling and/or the Vernatherm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
buddy Posted January 23, 2016 Report Posted January 23, 2016 Adjust your cowl flaps so that when they are pushed fully closed they should be adjusted to 1/4 in. open that helped me with high CHT's it might also help you with air flow through your oil cooler. If that works you should replace the left cowl flap with the same one as the right having the opening for the exhaust pipe on both sides (better air flow) and then you can readjust the cowl flaps so when closed they are tight against the cowling. This all worked for me and I had my 1980, 201 for 30 yrs. 1
carusoam Posted January 23, 2016 Report Posted January 23, 2016 Was wondering how you could do that on your R... 30 years! Wow. Best regards, -a-
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