CaptRJM

We own a 231. I'm 68, 6'1 and 215#. One knee replaced 4 months ago and the other will be scheduled in the not to distant future. Wife has had both hips replaced. Neither of us have any real problems ... except exiting after 4 hours or so ... only because we get a little stiff. I've had my wife's cousin who is 6'4 and about 225# seated behind the copilot for 3 1/2 hours on a couple of occasions. He says he's more comfortable there than sitting in coach when flying commercial. Another way to get in is to have the seats fully aft, stand in the co pilot position, put your left hand on the brace above the compass, then sit down into the co pilot seat using your arm to help control you on the way down. Once seated, scoot across to the pilot seat. Getting out is the reverse. One of the MAPA instructors showed me that trick.

I replaced all my interior parts with Plane Plastics because all my interior pieces were brittle and cracked everywhere. I didn’t want to patch everything and then cover it with fabric or ultra leather because I don’t like the look or the additional weight penalty. It was a little costly but 1/3 the price of the same parts from Mooney. The J model parts Plane Plastics list fit my K model just fine. The only exception was modifying the pilots panel for oxygen gauge and actuator lever. Fitting that panel was a little time consuming but it came out just fine. If you are going to repaint the panels I recommend SEM Products. They offer a wide range of colors and the paint goes on easily and drys in less than 30 minuets. Just make sure surface is thoroughly cleaned before applying the paint.

The poor performance of Aircraft Door Seal is well deserved. I've gone thru 3 of them in 8 years. The first one fell apart in less than 24 months. They replaced it for free. The second one lasted about 3 years and it too started just disintegrating. They replaced that one at 50% of Retail. The current one is cracking and leaking. It won't make it thru the summer. I'm NOT installing another one from Aircraft Door Seals even if I got it for free! I found out the Brown Aircraft Supply provides the factory seal to Mooney. If you want to order it directly from them it is Part Number BA-706-M. $92.64 for 12 feet. This is probably what I'm going to use. I've been in contact with Gee-Bee (CSO-Beech) and I never got the feeling that he's actually going to purchase a mold for a Mooney Seal. I think his silicone product will be superior to others but, who knows if he's ever going to make it. The only thing I could suggest is to PM him and express interest. If he hears from enough of us, maybe that will get him moving. If it became available, I'd give it a try.

I just celebrated owning my 231 for 10 years. It has been a wonderful traveling machine and not once has it failed to dispatch. My typical mission in 4-600 miles with 2 people. At that distance climbing to the mid teens is not a issue and typically you are above the weather. Several times I’ve been able to climb above reported icing which I wouldn’t been able to do in a non turbo aircraft. If you have a decent engine monitor engine management is not all that difficult provided you would understand the principles and have had proper training. My plane is a -LB with Merlyn and intercooler. CHTs in cruise are typically around 350 degrees running 28” at 2500 RPM LOP. I now have almost 800 hours on my cylinders and lowest compression is 72. Engine burns nearly no oil and passengers have said it feels turbine smooth. I think that properly managed the TSIO 360 is a fine engine and doesn’t deserve the reputation caused by ham fisted pilots.

I would agree that it is probably a leak preventing you from making full boost. It looks like exhaust leaking from around the access door. When is the last time the V Band clamps were looked at? You do not want to fly to the plane with a suspect turbocharger! Have a qualified person look at it!

Only if you have an engine monitor. Run it up on both mags, switch to right mag, note temps, switch to left mag, note temps. There will be a noticeable EGT difference on offending cylinder.

For Rajay Turbocharger parts you can try https://rajay.aero/ For turbocharger service http://www.approvedturbo.com/ or http://www.mainturbo.com/ Injector seals, etc. are Continental parts but are available from numerous sources like Aviall. If you have an STC'ed Intercooler or Merlyn Upper Deck Controller you might want to contact the manufacturer.

ECI never made new cylinders for TSIO-360 motors. All their products for that motor were overhauled. I was under the impression that ECI was in deep financial trouble because of the cylinder AD. I thought Continental bought what was left of them.

I spoke to Continental at Sun n Fun last year. They were hoping to have their new cylinder production facility open by the end of 2017. When it opens they were going to start making new nickel cylinders for the TSIO 360 motors. I don’t know the current status. As far as my cylinders, they were new Continental cylinders that my IA’s engine shop sent out to have them nicked. I don’t know who actually performs the process. Unlike steel cylinders where you push the motor for 10 hours to break-in the cylinders with nickel you do the opposite. Run the motor at a low power and a little rich for 10 hours, check compression, change the oil and you’re done.

I installed nickel cylinders in my TSIO-360-LB at 800 hours. When I purchased the plane I knew that it would need a TOH as the previous owner always ran the engine at 75% at best power. I now have around 1500 hours. Lowest compression is 72 PSI when checked cold. I change the oil every 25 hours. I put in 8 quarts and there is usually 6.5+ quarts remaining when I change the oil. Probably, half of that is puked out. I’m very happy with the nickel cylinder performance. When I overhaul I’d spec them again! BTW, all the motorcycle manufacturers use nickel cylinders for about the last 8-10 years. Not a direct comparison but shows the confidence in the technology by an entire market. If your plane sits a lot in humid conditions they will be of benefit as you won’t get any cylinder rusting. I did hear thru my IA that Continental was having a hard time with getting consistency in the early runs of their nickel cylinders. I’d have that investigated before committing to install them.

Also have to agree with gsxrpilot, be the best customer you can be. I know my IA is anal retentive and that’s how I want him to be! I don’t question him when he says he found a problem, it’s my skin he’s looking after, not trying to scam me out of more money. I pay my bill immediately. Sometimes, when I don’t see the invoice within a week I stop by with my checkbook. Often, he’s just been too busy to send out the bill but, I want him to get paid in a timely fashion. Being a good and interested customer has it’s advantages. If I have a problem and need to dispatch, I’m immediately at the front of the line. He knows that I’m a ME and I’m meticulous on maintenance on everything I own. When I first started going to him I asked if I could watch, not interrupt and ask questions. Over time it has become “Do you want to help?”. We’ve developed a friendship, with that has become the benefit of assisting on maintenance, reducing my cost a little but, more importantly, learning all the systems on the airplane. I’ve become a better owner and pilot because of our relationship.

There are at least 3 versions of the TIT/CDT gauge. Two versions have a 6 pin connector but with different internal wiring and there is a version with a 5 pin connector. They are all 14 volt and are not interchangeable. My IA went round and round on what he thought was a gauge problem a while back. That’s how we discovered the different gauges. The entire situation was painful but he finally prevailed!

I did it myself under my IA’s supervision during annual a couple years back. Can’t say it took me more than 90 minuets. Installed with silicone gaskets. Hopefully, I won’t have a problem for a long time. The newer stamped steel rocker covers will warp if ham fisted. Once they warp, they will never seal properly and you will have to buy new ones. Better yet, find a set of aluminum rocker covers, like the rear one on #2 cylinder but without the oil cooler support. They will never warp, seal better and conduct heat more efficiently than steel. You will pay a very slight weight penalty because screws are 1 1/4” long instead of 1/2”. Engine on my plane is a Continental re-man and was delivered with the aluminum rocker covers.

My avionics shop had 2 of them in last year, at the same time and same owner. A fellow at KSOP owns 3 of them. One in good condition, one and fair condition (the ones I saw) and the third is a parts plane. From what I understand all came from Europe. The two I saw had Swiss flags painted on the tail.

Best to get all the old fiberglass stuff out of there. It will retain moisture. If it gets damp it will accelerate corrosion. Easiest thing to do is buy Soundex Insulation. It is lighter than the fiberglass, will not retain moisture and also absorbs vibrations. They sell it in a kit for all models. It’s not cheap but, comes with all the proper approvals. I have no interest in the company. Just a PP providing info from personal experience.

Wish you luck. I think that’s going to be a tough one to find. From what I understand even the big engine shops typically don’t have them on the shelf. Just not a common engine.

Last year TIGHAR published a picture claiming that it was Erhart and Noonan on a pier waiting to be loaded on a freighter. A week later others looked into it only to discover that the ship in the background wasn’t even launched until after their disappearance. I’ll wait on hard evidence. All this stuff out of TIGHAR is pure speculation.

I think the KFC 230 will come out a couple of years after the KI 300 is available. BK has the reputation of over promise and under deliver when it comes to GA.

Contact Aero Comfort. They have complete sets of interior placards for around $100. They are not cheap plastic film like many vendors. Theirs are on thin aluminum like factory placards.

Any idea of timing?

If it gets too extensive you may want to contact Aerospace Welding in Minneapolis. They will duplicate any single piece or the entire system if necessary.

Is there any progress with the silicone door seal. My 3rd Aircraft Door Seals foam seal is failing and I’m not going to try another. Time to try something else.

My -LB has 1400 hours and is still running great. I had my AP get me a quote from Triad in Burlington NC a few months back so I could update my numbers. They quoted $35K to overhaul with new Continental Cylinders. When we added in the costs of overhauling everything else, a complete new exhaust and labor to remove and reinstall the estimated cost was between $53K and $55K. I don’t know the costs for the -LB induction system so that would have to be factored in.

Buy a Vertical Card Compass and don’t look back. They have a Mooney specific mount that uses the same mounting screws.

If the altimeter is not an encoding altimeter overhaul should be around $350. VSI would be around $250. Probably around $600 and $400 if you decide to do an overhaul/exchange. I know encoding altimeters are very expensive to overhaul but, not aware of the actual costs.