CaptRJM

According to the folks a GAMI you get approximately 13.8 HP per GPH. 65% Power on a TSIO 360GB, LB, MB requires 9.9-10.0 GPH to make 136.5 HP. HP and GPH are directly related. Running LOP would yield somewhat less HP because you are running lower cylinder pressures ... that is why you have to run slightly higher MP. Remember, Continental does not recommend LOP operation above 65% Power ... which is where most people get themselves into trouble when running LOP and unable to achieve temps. I run 65% power LOP all the time on my TSIO 360LB with GAMIs, Merlyn and Turbo Plus. Fuel comes right in at 9.9-10.0 GPH. MP, depending on altitude and OAT, is typically 28.0-29.5" at 2500 RPM. CHTs run around 350 on cylinders 1,2,3,4 and 280-300 on 5,6. TIT is around 1525. TAS is typically 160-165 Kn.

I had the same problem several years ago. It turned out to be the dimmer, which can not be repaired. It was less expensive to install 2 new MaxDim Dimmers rather than a new Mooney Dimmer. MaxDim is STC'ed for all Mooneys and it took about 2 hours to install both of them.

I don't think it is a Turbo Plus. It is not designed quite the same. What does the 337 say? Don't bank on finding an Airflow Systems Intercooler. They stopped production at least 4 years ago. There have been numerous teasers to the 231 Community that they would start production gain if they had some orders ... but they never moved off the mark. The Turbo Plus is not that hard to install. My AP and I did it in a little more than a day. The heater box mod is very simple. Everything else is very straightforward. Yes, you'll have to paint the lower cowl and touch up the cowl flaps. If you don't have a fancy paint job, it shouldn't stop you. I don't know anyone with an Airflow Systems Intercooler so I can't compare performance but, I would think the NACA duct in the Turbo Plus installation will deliver more cooling air than the blast tube design that Airflow uses. At cruise altitudes I frequently see over a 100 degree drop between CDT and IAT.

I am very interested. Have tried to contact you using the email provided but all attempts bounce. Please contact me at captnrj@mindspring.com. I'd like to see some pictures. THANKS!

I second the glass replacement. If you have the whole interior out this is the time to replace the glass. None of the products will clean up milky or crazed glass, they are meant for polishing out scratches. Your glass is 38 years old and is probably brittle. Don't just replace the windscreen .... if you do, it will make all the remaining glass look terrible. I replaced my glass with 1/4" solar grey from Great Lakes Aero. Fit was excellent and very little trimming was required. My AP and I did the whole job in 2 1/2 days.

I went 'round and 'round with Airflow Systems 4 years ago. Seems that they gave up their PMA because they wanted to concentrate on the experimental market. They strung me along for a year! Then they came back with a commitment of 5 units. When I came up with the commitment, the excuse was they needed to find someone to make them. 3 months later, after a bunch of unanswered emails and phone calls, Airflow finally said they weren't interested. I only mention this because I don't want everyone to do a bunch of work and get their hopes up only to have it all fall apart in the end. After all this I called Turbo Plus, got a firm quote within 2 days and had the unit in hand in less than a month. That's the way to do business .... not string people along. Kit was very complete and very good instructions. Am I happy with the Turbo Plus? YES! I frequently see a 100+ degree drop between CDT and IAT when cruising in the mid-high teens. Picked up about 10 Knots at same power settings. I can't make a comparison but I think the Turbo Plus unit using a NACA Duct will be more efficient than the Airflow unit having a blast tube installed through the aft baffle.

Vertical Card Compass is the way to go. Had similar problems with the original compass. Upgraded to the Vertical Card and couldn’t be happier. Was able to calibrate compass without balancing balls. Precision makes a Center Post Mount for Mooney.

Thanks for all the information. I'm really only looking for a portable unit. I have a golf cart that I use when at my home base.

Sorry about your bad experience with Minimax. I spoke with them at SnF and they recommended the Milwaukee version. After I found a used Dewalt version about a month ago, I called them to ask if it would handle a fully fueled 231 and they said it wouldn't. It is unfortunate that your experience is totally the opposite. It seems that anything later than a 201 really needs 28 volts in the drill powered tugs.

I'm not getting any younger and moving the Mooney around by hand is getting harder. I'm looking to buy either a Minimax or Redline Sidewinder Tug to carry with me. 28 volt models preferred.

Put me down for both if/when they come available

I've have almost 1400 hours on my 231 (TSIO 360 LB) since last overhaul. Haven't had any problems with turbocharger or Merlyn controller. Minor leak in exhaust system that we caught at last annual, maybe it was an extra hour to fix. I did top all 6 cylinders at 900 hours. 2 cylinders were way down and leaking from the exhaust valves and rings, just decided to do them all rather than doing 1 or 2 at a time. Went with nickel cylinders on the recommendation of my engine shop and AP. Compressions were still in the mid 70's at last annual. I run the engine at 65% power, lean of peak. CHTs are in the mid to low 300s and TIT is usually around 1450. The key to maintaining life on a turbo motor is managing it. If you control the CHTs you'll get decent life. Try not to let CHTs exceed 400 for any length of time. Also, be gentle with the throttle, make minor adjustments. Pull back a few inches at a time on descent and give the cylinders time to cool slowly. Yes, a turbo motor will cost more. TBO is less than non turbo. The Lycoming IO 360 can almost always go to TBO without top overhaul. That typically won't happen with a turbo motor, you'll almost always have to do a top before TBO. Turbocharger rebuilds can be mitigated by letting the engine cool down at idle before shutdown. I let the TIT cool to 550 degrees before shutdown. Takes about 3 minutes once I get to the ramp but it eliminated coking of the turbo bearings which is the biggest contributor to turbo failure. If you want to learn a lot about managing motors I suggest you read the John Deakins Articles, he is a wealth of knowledge. If you are not an engineer it will be hard to follow at times but you'll be a lot wiser when you finish.

Known weak spot is the capacitors in the KC 295 Flight Computer. Autopilots Central rebuilt it 3 years ago and it now performs perfectly! But, once you get it back it is important to have an avionics shop "marry" the HSI and Flight Director to make sure all voltages are set properly. If voltages are not correct you may have non standard rate turns or steep climbs/descents. But, before doing all that I'd fly the plane again to make sure that the problem can be replicated and it wasn't just something like a stuck switch in the mode controller or accidently holding the switch in the down position too long. To get a 500-700 FPM descent I usually only hold the switch in for a little over a second while still at cruise power.

Never had any problems running any Windows tablet or my ipad air

They have never found a problem in my plane other than a leaky alternate static switch even with replacing the O Rings it was still $300. All the shops around here are $250 or $275

I have a spare that I purchased from an avionics shop. It appears to be very lightly used. Original paint is hardly worn. I'll sell it to you for what I paid, $350.