kortopates

I used the same Thermo-Tec adhesive backed material right on the cowling adjacent to my Turbo, which gets so hot it glows cherry red, and Thermo-Tec material has been working great for years.

I assume adjacent to the exhaust? You'll have to examine the cowling from the inside to assess the extent of the damage. You may find dry, soft, fiberglass material which will likely require a fiberglass repair and then to be protected with some heat shield material to prevent a re-occurrence.

You might get more helpful input if you indicate your location. There are good magneto shops all over. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To counter some oxygen myths or misconceptions. Medical oxygen contains 0 moisture in the tank - moisture is added after it comes out of the bottle as it is being dispensed. Moisture in aviation O2 would be very bad and you don't need to be at high altitude or real cold temps. The cooling issue comes from Boyles law and decompressing 2000 psi in the tank just a few psi to breathe. if he didn't cut off your supply I imagine the ice crystals could damage our expensive regulators. Buts its not even a concern these days. There is zero moisture in 02 produced today by any industrial gas shop. They use air separation technology (including fractional distillation) to produce large batches of moisture free 02 for all their 02 needs e.g., industrial welding 02, Aviators O2, medical O2. Keeping moisture out doesn't cost any more, its a natural byproduct of how they produce it. So what's different about Aviators 02? for one it has be tested and results logged to show its purity and moisture content. In the old days before my time, some sources of 02 were not moisture free - hence the concern. But more importantly to us these days, the fill is done with a more thorough cleaning (vacuuming of the receptacle) tank since we're going to breathe it unlike industrial welding O2. This is also true for medical 02. But Medical O2 requires a prescription to be filled and aviators O2 does not.

Thanks for sharing, that's perfect and shows me how it was installed using the prior push/pull cable mount on the panel. Since the 252 cowl flap indicator is directly below the trim and flaps indicator on the far right edge, it would be possible to add it to the pedestal but another cable would have to pulled through the firewall. Not sure its worth it.

The going rate, that pretty common starting rate here at $60 in Socal for independent out the truck mechanics. Suggestion of $25 hr here would get you a wack over the head with their torque wrench. We too have some military IA's that moon light after hours and weekends, but they charge more than the full time guys working out of the back of their truck - $75 hr

You were very fortunate, but there is no way you can refer to a licensed A&P/IA as a "hangar fairy"! Although fairies are unable to write (log book entries), and most don't have access to documentation or can't read (maint manuals etc) A&P/IA is fully literate and god in the eyes of the FAA.

The 252 flaps are rigged entirely differently than the 231. The 231 has only 3 positions and just like you said, its not practical to run your 252 at fully closed nor is practical to run the 231 that way, so the closed position actually has to allow for the minimum opening. But since the 252 cowl flaps don't have this problem in that they are infinitely adjustable, instead they are rigged such that the closed door trailing edge is flush with the bottom cowling when closed; despite we don't actually operate them fully closed. When adjusted there, that gives the proper amount of opening in the fully open position and proper cowl flap degree of opening indication in the cockpit. Also I believe you're telling me with your vernier cable control you retain the full adjust ability without any creeping - if that the case that's much better than I thought. I would love to see a picture of cockpit pedestal with the vernier control and position indicator since I have never see this setup.

Me either because Mooney only used them in 24v aircraft. But check the K IPC to see if they listed a 12v to be sure. I wonder if you actually have a 24V that moves slower? Keep in mind the new current motor spec that Globe returns has a larger holes in the shaft and you will likely have to drill out the 2 holes in the mating part as discussed in the other thread on this. But that is a good thing since it makes your old mating part like new again, I.e. Gets rid of wear in the original holes that have become elongated from wear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That begs the question, but I assume the 262 mod by them included the 252 cowling with the single lower cowl flap door. How they put the electric cowl flap motor in I don't know since Mooney did not use a 12V version but should really check the IPC to see if they have such a part. Interesting question. But it's well worth it. No doubt I am getting a few knots speed improvement with it in every flight because of its adjustability and the first motor lasted 29 - didn't even actuality fail but I OH'd preemptively when I had the engine off since the hole on the shaft has worn elongated and I was concern for future failure. Globe said it was a tired motor. Cost was only a few hundred $ through globe and they send you a new motor, Mooney, whom I like to support as much as I can, charged $1400 then. Still the cheapest speed mod I have! If you can retrofit it, it's well worth it. I'd offer a ride in mine but I think we're far apart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cyl #4 is definitely showing signs of a sticking valve a.k.a. morning sickness. But the data on #1 is inconclusive and I doubt you'll find #1 sticking. It should really be sticking from startup and thus show a cold EGT from startup, but a normal EGT at startup that then goes cold temporarily may not be a sticky valve. More commonly, its sticking at startup and then as power as applied it will un-stick itself - till the day comes when it doesn't. Or during low power cruise as it cools it will begin sticking open again. But anytime while its sticking, you're engine is at serious risk of eating a valve which makes it well worth addressing asap to avoid.

I was originally headed the Sandia 340 unit myself - till they came out with the ESI-500 after the Genesis. With the full stand by capabilities and the added Nav capabilities I thought it was it was worth as expensive as it was so that I could drop an extra OBS-CDI display for Nav backup if I lost my G500. Plus at the time, Sandia was having issues with early units and they were having to go back to the factory for firmware update which was giving me cold feet. Although that shouldn't be an issue now. But with the ESI-500, its just my G500 which displays both GPS and VOR/LOC inputs and the ESI-500 with switch to enable displaying Nav inputs from GPS#1 or GPS #2 (which are GTN750 & 650) for instruments. Very clean panel. And I still have the option of adding Syn Vis to the ESI-500. Truthfully, I have backup Nav on the GPS's directly, but the the GPS displays don't provide GS without an external CDI, hence the desire for a backup nav display.

Curious, I just helped a friend get the B&N standby alternator added to his Bonanza. B&N makes a few different models, 2 of which are for Continental big bore engines which would work on the Ovation, but only with a field approval - since there is no STC for the Mooney. These standby alternators are only 20 amps and need 2000+ rpm to do that. Of course they're better than single alternator, single battery configuration, but not nearly as a capable as a true second full output alternator such as on the 252's, and Bravo's. I have not heard of one fitting on the TSIO-360 engine vacuum pad - its too tight of a fit with the starter as far as I know. The belt driven true second alternator used on the Continentals require a different starter adapter configuration. Not sure if one is available for the GB or LB. But even on a 252 that lacks this option today, years ago you could get the required starter adapter for a few thousand dollars, swap out your old one and add the second alternator for a few thousand more but now (a few years ago actually) they were quoting $8K for the starter adapter alone, then add the cost for the alternator and re-wiring in the cockpit to the buss, load meter etc and you'll quickly be over $10K. Most people find it easier to find another air-frame that already has a second alternator rather than pay today's cost to add one.

This normal Don, the closed position is suppose to be about an 1" to 1.5" open. Never fully closed. Mooney and Continental found early on in their 231 testing that fully closed closed caused two problem, not only no airflow but it also created back pressure at the cowling inlets which added significant drag cost measurable knots in airspeed. When properly rigged to be open a bit, not only does the closed position provide the necessary minimal airflow through the cowling from top-front to bottom-rear, but the plane cruises a measurable number of knots faster too. I forget exact specifics, but I recall its was 3-4 kts.

The electric cowl flaps, creating infinitely adjustable cowl flaps, is one of the best features of the 252's cowling since it enables you provide just as little cooling as you need without incurring excessive drag. It couldn't be easier to operates since you set it where you want it and it won't change on you. I don't believe there is any approved cable replacement of the electric cowl flaps, just a prior owner that got frustrated with loosing the motor. Getting the motor repaired/overhauled is easy to do through Globe Motors in AL. Their turn around is about a week. Just search Mooneyspace for more than one thread discussing the details and contact info.

Good to know! I'll have to check into that. Thanks!

No, I haven't looked into whether or not the G500 magnetometer is compatible with the ESI-500 inputs. That's an interesting thought. In actuality though, I am always looking at my GPS TRK versus DTK on approaches, more so than a CDI, so having TRK there may prove more valuable to me anyway. But the jury is still out on that for awhile.

Please do check with them and let us know what they tell you, because they show they meed the TSO's for all the pitot-static instruments which would not make sense if it wasn't approved nor would we be able to use it as a sole source stand by; which it is commonly being installed as.

??? - Not true. This is what it was designed for and is being installed as the sole back up instrument to support an EFIS panel (i.e. without any other pitot-static instruments). The base unit covers them all but heading, but heading is available too with the $1500 magnetometer option which I didn't get so the unit displays Track while the compass provides heading. See the TSO approvals in the specifications http://www.l3aviationproducts.com/products/esi-500/#1441874218832-398800e3-835ed211-c94673d5-f72d Plus with the Navigation option I have a second VOR/LOC/ILS/GPS navigation.

It does Byron (prohibit it), I went with the L3 ESI-500 for my G500 as did Don on his G500 and Chris on his dual Aspen. This is specifically what the ESI-500 was designed for. However, as stated above some FDDO's are allowing installers to ignore that the G5 has not been approved for EFIS backup and provided a field approval. The other Paul S - gxrspilot - above was the one that got field approval for the G5 with Aspen. The $ savings just isn't worth the added risk to me, even with dual GTN GPS installation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like all iPad/android pilot apps, Garmin Pilot works by pre-downloading all maps, charts, including documents like AFD info onto the storage on your iPad or iPhone. So as said above, you need to download coverage for all areas you plan to fly before you intend to use in flight. So go to the Downloads section and select all the areas you need or intend to fly in. Your GDL 39 is only providing you with GPS position information to show your position on the downloaded maps/charts (and of course ADS-B weather and traffic). In fact, using your GDL 39 you can turn off the cellular portion of your ipad/iphone by putting it in Airplane mode to save battery if you'd like; and just keep bluetooth on to interface with the GDL 39..

Falsifying records is serious and if truly done maliciously I would expect your IA, whom is unbiased, would want to bring it to attention of his FSDO to discuss investigating. As for "recourse", are you referring to negotiated sale price based on misrepresented ads? It's easy enough to put a value on 1200 hrs of engine time. For starters one would have to ask is the potential value worth the lawyer fees you'll spend pursuing it. If the records were falsified before the prior owner it seems it gets very complicated quick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When used as Primary to replace your AI, you'll have the "redundancy" of IAS, Turn Bank, DG, and Alt just like you always had with a 6-pack. Remember it's only primary for Attitude. But if you use it as a backup for an EFIS system like an Aspen or especially a G500 you won't have any redundancy to support the G5 if you loose it. Consider the Achilles heal of the Aspen, air-data, and say you loose the pitot ram air because because your pitot heat fails or any number of reasons as simple as a break in the line. This brings down the entire Aspen, multiple Aspens doesn't help either. Now you don't have a backup EFIS certified to degrade to an acceptable performance level with a loss of pitot air data. Now what? Stick to something that was engineered to meet the requirements of how you intend to use it. They're really not silly requirements. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hopeful you or your mechanic also tested the manual emergency extension mechanism as well. The brass clutch can get chewed up from multiple attempts with the latch unlocked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AFAIK it's still on going now and likely will be for years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk