N601RX

You might check the way back when web archives. Its random snapshots of websites over a several year period. You may have to check several months to find one that has what you are looking for. https://web.archive.org/web/20040601000000*/http://www.mooney.com Some of the older websites have some interesting reading on them.

There seems to be quite a bit of interest or curiosity in this project so here is an update. I wanted something that would hold both AA&AAA so added some slots for AAA cells along the front and beefed up/ recessed the latch mechanism considerably. When I get time I will go back and update the original AA only version to the stronger latch. Now it's time to print one out and give it the old drop test. I'm also in the process of upgrading my printer to use a second print head so it can use support material or print 2 of something at once so it may be a few days before I get to print the new design. 3D printing really opens up a whole new world to design. Draw it up in CAD, load it up in the printer and walk away. A few hours later and a couple of $ later your idea is a reality.

I've saw pictures of the engine and tail removed and setting on a trailer sideways. The front wheel was removed and set down on the trailer with the tail cone sticking up in the air at about a 45 deg angle. It seems to fit on the trailer pretty well this way.

They also have a 12vdc controlled mechanical valve to replace the pneumatic controlled one.

I tweaked a few things on the top cover to make it work better and reprinted it. I still need to make some changes to the latch mechanism. If there is some interest from others for these I could print up some for sale.

After fighting with loose batteries in the bottom of my flight bag that I can never seem to find when I need them I decided to design something to hold them. I designed it in CRE0 and then printed it on a MakerGear M2 3D printer. Complete with printed hing pin, latch and N number. I may tweek a few things and reprint.

Gyro manufactures also put a shelf life on new units, often as short as 6 months unless they are unpacked, ran for 30 minutes and then test every 6 months.

Your plane being newer makes it a harder call, the 1st hanger rash always hurts the most be it a car or plane. It looks like that is the 2nd skin from the end which is a larger skin. There are shops who have the experience to replace it and the work will be as good as the factory and there are shops who will make small errors doing the work and the total end result may not much if any better than the dent you currently have. It could also be supported from the back and worked down until level or very slightly depressed and the a few coats of high build sealer/primer to bring it back up level. There is also a guy not for from you in Tennessee who uses electromagnetic pulses to remove dents, It is very popular on more expensive planes. It seems if he could get his machine to the back side it might still work. It seems to me a reasonable path might be to allow someone to try to work it down level with the understanding if it wasn't to your satisfaction they the plane would be flown to a shop of your choice and have the panel replaced.

My experience has been that all the Military controllers in this area will say "verify gear down and locked".

Here is the ignition lead Maintenance Manual. It shows the parts needed to repair various harnesses as well as how to do it. The toolkit is expensive if purchased new, but I found one on ebay for under $50. Champion Leads F-1100-L-1499.pdf

Larry, I don't see a way to post a pdf from my iPad, but will post the document when I get to work tomorrow. If you need it tonight send me a pm with your email and I can email it to you. It has a pictorial chart that shows the different part for the 5/8" and both the 3/4" old and new style. edit here is a screenshot of the parts. Looks like the spring is the same.

The part number depends on which harness you have. Unison/Slick published a repair manual several years ago that shows how to repair both ends of the harness and also has a chart in the back that will show the pn for the different harnesses. I can post a copy of it when I get home tonight. With the pn you can order them from Spruce or most mechanics have a box of old harnesses setting around just for salvaging parts from.

I doesn't need to be originally approved for your Mooney. Anything that was originally approved for it in 63 is not going to be something you will want. The KNS80 in my plane was approved by field approval. Based on their logic you could not upgrade anything.

So if the business owner died would the insurance money not go to his beneficiaries and not his estate? Does the bank want to be listed as a beneficiary?

The best deal in a DME for approaches seems to be the KNS80 if you have room for it. It also gives you a RNAV as well as glideslope/localizer/VOR. IF you can find one being removed with the indicator and intact harness the install might not be to bad if you can find someone who will put it in. The indicator is the same type needed for a GPS so it is not a complete waste if you decide to put in a gps at some point. You can usually find them in working as removed condition for a few hundred.

I think I remember reading the Germans used it during WW2.

I think the tail was the problem area with the wood wing models. I think most of the tails were swapped for aluminum.

I would skip the battery minder and put that money toward a new Concord battery when the Gill dies. The maintainer is 2/3's the price of a new battery. I would be more concerned about the engine and would either find someone to fly it a few times or do a fresh oil change/dehumidifier just before you leave. Also look at the dehumidifier plugs for the cylinders. I would not want to just let it set for that long without doing anything.

Do you check the GPS NOTAMS to make sure coverage is going to be available before each flight? You could loose your MFD, Ipad and Iphone all at once. Garmin antennas also have a failure mode that blanks out other nearby GPS's. https://pilotweb.nas.faa.gov/PilotWeb/noticesAction.do?queryType=ALLGPS&formatType=DOMESTIC

Ask yourself this, with the autopilot off and in bumpy air are you able to maintain heading and altitude while unfolding a map and figuring out where you are as well as figure out a freq to contact someone on because you have flew out of range of your last contact. It will happen at some point and having to multitask is what gets most people in trouble.

Does your engine monitor include fuel flow and fuel pressure?

The actual current draw is much lower than the circuit breaker rating. The circuit breaker is sized to protect the wire. The dual power and ground are used for redundancy, King even used them on there stand alone radios such the Ky97 and 197.

A 530 to fly from MGM to EUF?

Most Modern avionics don't necessarily need one, but I added one when redoing the panel. It consist of 2 circuit breakers mounted side by side and wired in parallel for redundancy.

The best way to eliminate a sticking valve is to remove the spring and do the wobble test. Even if you don't have the indicator and holder if it is even remotely snug it will stick. They can stick on low time engines also. If you have Champion plugs measure the resistance 1st.