A64Pilot

You need to find a better shop, about the only way is by word of mouth. ‘Not everyone has the knack for turning wrenches, you just have different skill sets is all, I don’t expect my CPA to know how to time magnetos, and he knows I have no desire to learn about taxes. ‘If you can’t trust then to change a tire, can you trust them to work on your landing gear?

Thanks

I’m not sure what your doing as I don't know what a boom etc is. The simple answer is if you flow sensor says your flowing 2.5L per min or whatever, then that’s your flow whether you have restrictions or multiple hoses or whatever. If your doing what I think you are an issue may be is the O2 equally split between the two lines? If there is any restriction at all past the Y then the unrestricted hose will get more O2, the flow meter will tell you the total,

I would add the weight to the tail mathematically, and see if that fixes everything, 30 lbs with that much arm is a whole lot of moment so I think it will make a large difference. ‘So far as accounting for what people do, I gave up on that long ago, some have strong beliefs and they just can’t let them go. ‘I’d tell you from flight testing that ballasting to aft CG almost always increases speed, even though you added weight

I adjusted them to be open 1/4 inch or so when fully closed, max what the book says, but haven’t flown yet, that will be this weekend. I think that will be fine, I’m not adverse to leaving them partially open for cruise ‘If your having trouble getting the cyl head temp warm enough, adjust them so they are fully closed, you can always crack them open a bit if needed. ‘Down South I always taxi and run up and climb with them fully open, closed is for cruise, on the C-210 I flew normal cruise had them cracked open a bit and only closed them for the descent and landing. ‘Once landed I open the cowl flaps when I retract the wing flaps.

Anyone have a pic or directions for this PVC trough? I was going to try a funnel and hose, but if someone has something better, will they tell me? 81 J model Ref Air Wolf installation, I think I’d buy it first then determine where you wanted it and measure for hoses, otherwise your going to end up putting it where the hoses will allow. I like them because they are easier, often allow a larger filter to be used, and you can pre-fill the filter and I believe that helps some.

LOP isn’t anything new at all, My Father used to get his 210 up high and lean it as much as he could and it run smoothly. ‘This was in 1968, many, many people did. You just give up 10 kts cruise or so but gained phenomenal range,mot weren’t willing to give up the speed. An engine analyzer is a good tool to have in the box, but you don’t have to have one to run LOP, just run less than 75% power and you can do anything you want too with the red knob and it won’t hurt the motor (NA motor only). ‘Now that 75% power number is a number that’s valid at best power mixture, so LOP it’s actually well less than 75%. Personally as I’m risk adverse I use 65% not 75% LOP or rich of peak, or even peak is fine, just run rich of peak if your in a hurry, trying to go fast and be LOP or peak can get you into trouble, not saying it will, but why risk it. You can within reason control power solely by fuel burn, try it. Set 22 squared and 9 GPH, then 8 GPH, then 7 GPH, and even 6 GPH, once you get below 8 you’ll notice a power decrease, probably ‘A Diesel engine controls power output solely with fuel, it does not restrict air intake, there is no throttle valve. Now we aren’t Diesels of course, but within limits we can run over a pretty wide set of mixture ratios

Unless I’m mistaken the Garmin 480 is actually the Apollo CNX-80? I don’t believe they are supported anymore? But it was the GPS I always wanted and never could afford

Thank you. That means a temp inistsled switch for trouble shooting isn’t a safety issue, and also opens up replacement possibilities. ‘Does anyone know if our Master is also used in other aircraft? Will a Piper switch fit? Cessna’s seem to have different mounting

I doubt it’s adjustable, some instrument shops may be able to.

Mine is an 81, so I’d assume a flat left. Book says 1/4” max opening for hot weather. I’ll probably rig for that if nothing else to prevent chaffing, but I did like being able to keep cyl head temps in the green on a low power let down by closing them.

Got this as an email this morning https://www.ronsellsthebeach.com/blog/median-home-sales-price-skyrocketed/

I would agree with you, and what makes it worse is manufacturers getting STC’s for products that shouldn’t be STC’d like clocks and sun visors. ‘I think they do this to spread the belief that you need and STC product to be legal and that justify’s an excessive price.

I guess I wasn’t clear in what I was asking. ‘Do most or many cruise with the flaps cracked open in warm/ hot wx, or does everyone cruise with them fully closed and temp in the middle of the green? If everyone flies around in warm weather with flaps fully closed, then I have a issue I need to chase

I’m troubleshooting the same issue myself, You can confirm or deny it’s the Master by temporarily connecting in a toggle switch to the alternator wires, if the problem goes away. then of course it’s the switch. ‘As expensive as the switch is, I’m a little hesitant to take it apart or replace it without knowing it’s the issue. Is the Master a switch breaker? I wouldn’t think it would be as the battery side only powers the relay, and we have an alternator field CB don’t we?

Wasn’t aware of that. We had a bunch of aircraft up there, and Transport Canada was interesting to work with sometimes, polite, but interesting

MVP-50 in my Maule almost 10 years ago I’d guess? The MVP had a lot of functionality, especially if you get the audio. I mentioned once to Rob Roberts at EI about how sexy she sounded, then found out she is his Daughter in law.

Pretty much all of the shortages, wood, computer chips etc. can be blamed on Covid, but in fact it’s really that the demand for “stuff” was seriously underestimated so manufacturers didn’t order enough parts and especially the just in time guys are hurting. ‘Had they known that the cheap money would create such a demand they would be sitting pretty, and some in fact are, the ones that kept a healthy inventory, having been stung by shortages in the past.

A die will clean it up, at first I cringed, but it doesn’t look bad at all. ‘I put Gami’s on two engines, an IO-540W1A5D and a Continental IO-520, forget which one. But it was a waste of money for both, neither needed them, nothing improved. The fine wire plugs on the other hand did make a difference, but I’ve heard others have had issues with fine wires. ‘I prefer a die to a file, less skill required, but if your good a file works too.

I thought the Boom Beam was just a way overpriced LED bulb? Back when LED’s required STC’s because the FAA didn’t have a TSO for lights. Whelen I’m 99% sure bought their STC from Floats Alaska and got into LED’s with the Parmethius that way. ‘I used to joke that to change and aircraft landing light, took an IA, a multi page ICA, a 337to be filed and a POH supplement. ‘I loved the multi page ICA, that said over and over, if it doesn’t work, replace it, there is nothing you can service or repair. Thets right, the Boom Beam was an overpriced HID, not an LED.

Maybe, I Retired from the Army in 02, I suspect he came later, but it’s possible we may know a few of the same people.

Alternators can provide way more power, for way less weight, but they produce AC current, not DC. The AC current they produce is rectified to pulsating DC, so I believe they are “noisier” They also require DC power to work as they have electromagnets, where a Generator has permeant magnets. ‘A whole lot of money can be spent on upgrades with not much advantage being gained, if you don’t need the extra current that an alternator can provide, then why replace it? 1940’s and newer aircraft had tube radios and 250W landing lights, and worked just fine with generators. However alternators are supposedly more reliable than generators because of the difference in the rings that the brushes ride on, generator brushes wear faster, but I’d say that if brushes are inspected every xxx hours and a replacement interval determined a generator can last a very, very long time. (I’d do it at 100 hours myself) ‘For whatever it’s worth the majority of at least smaller turbines have generators that also function as starters, and it’s normal to inspect the brushes and determine a replacement interval for them. It’s easily done. ‘I’ve replaced a VW’s brushes at night on the side of the road, generators are simple and therefore easy to maintain.

That is the only point I have been trying to make, of course it means either an IA or a Repair Station does the inspection.

I’m not so sure.

That would be standard practice, if it were in fact specially made and not machined from a standard bolt it’s likely it would be stupid expensive. ‘However if it were machined, then standard practice is also to send it off to be re-cad plated again, that only makes sense for batches of bolts, isn’t all that expensive, but adds time, shipping both ways etc. So $70 a bolt really isn’t price gouging, I’ve seen and paid over a couple of hundred a bolt for larger NAS bolts, that were not special. ‘When I overhaul an engine, I send every piece of common hardware off of it, nuts, bolts etc to Aerospace defense coatings in Macon Ga and have it cad plated in gold cad plate, it’s actually very reasonable. I’d bet though if you bought AN or NAS whichever is correct and had them machined and then cad plated as an owner produced part, I’d bet it would cost a least what Lazar charges, maybe more?