A64Pilot

Well that was too easy, let’s see if it takes. On edit and as an update, it may take. see screen shot

Outstanding, I’m going to try this route, because having to pay $600 per year for a private agency to not display my locations etc that’s freely provided to them by the US Government, seems a bit like black mail or extortion? How many flight tracking agencies are there, and do they all want $600 a year? You can say that not class discrimination if you want, but it sure looks like it to me.

On the turbo bikes we ran 158 Octane “Fast gas”. I’ve done some looking and I think that high an Octane isn’t possible with gasoline, so I’m not sure exactly what it was. Your fuel also cannot be Oxygen bearing fuel either if you racing in a sanctioned race, and or was often checked, it’s easily checked, I think they check specific gravity? On the Kawasaki 900/1000, you could only bore to 1200 with the stock cylinder, bigger than that and you bore through the solid aluminum and your into the fins. to go higher you needed a “big block” which was essentially a solid aluminum block. They could be purchased with your shops name cast into them if you had a min order. I dont know who the foundry was, ours said Star Cycle but of course Vance and Hines and others sold them too. ‘In 1980 or so the biggest you could go was 1327 CC, I guess 1400 was later, the pistons on the bigger motors had a flat spot on the top of the perimeter as of course the combustion chamber was still for a 900/1000, and possibly due to that they didn’t always work as well as you hoped, our fastest motor was I believe 1070 or so, but a 1200 kit worked great for a carbureted street bike. On the turbo we ran believe it or not but stock cams set to 110 lobe centers and stock valve springs with titanium valves and retainers, the lighter weight valves allowed for the stock springs, and I think we ran about 8 to 1 or so compression and ran a Fairbanks Morse magneto belt driven off the right side of the crankshaft. We ran an S&S Super carb bolted to the turbo and had to have an electric fuel pump because fuel wouldn’t drain out of the tank fast enough, it had to be pumped out or you would lean out in the run, that wasn’t as easy to figure out as you would think, jetting was done by plug checks, a new plug was run and then looked at for color, white was bad. ‘The turbo was easier to start than a stock bike and idled smoothly like a stock bike, maybe even smoother due to lower compression, it was very much a street drivable bike and didn’t get hot at all unless it was making big power, and the turbo kept it much quieter than an open drag pipe. so as you can expect we built a few street bikes This was the shop I worked at , back then it was Star Cycle, I don’t know why it changed to Star Racing, I was there in 80 and 81 https://www.dragbike.com/star-racing-george-and-jackie-bryce-build-a-small-motorcycle-speed-shop-into-a-drag-racing-institution/

Explain this dot com N number please, do you have a link? I know what we called in the military as Hollywood call signs are allowed, but thought N number must not change. ‘In other words calling your self Angel flight if your in fact an Angel flight is allowed, but I didn’t think you could transmit anything but your real N number on ADSB? I’ve confirmed anonymous mode works as in if you have it selected and your squawking 1200 ATC only sees VFR, but get assigned a squawk and that’s no longer the case. ‘Once the FAA changes registration and my LLC is displayed as the owner, I’ll get you smart guys to check and see how easy it is to put my name on it. I know it’s possible, nothing is absolute, I’d just prefer it not be easy and widely available. I want to avoid this, yesterday’s flight. Look on the bottom, where it says “purchase entire flight history” Geez how can that not be considered an invasion of privacy? https://flightaware.com/live/flight/N1141N I don't think I should be required to pay someone to not track me, how many flight tracking agencies are there? Are you supposed pay them all, I assume on a yearly basis or is it monthly?

Fixing wings or flying Ag? Ag is dirty and hours are insane, it’s usually hot and very, very soon the coolness of flying very low and yanking and banking wears off. It very quickly becomes work

IF you can get the valve out of anOxygen bottle you can visually inspect the interior with just a flashlight, but the valve used on O2 bottles has interference or pipe threads and buddy it’s in there tight. They have a special holding fixture at the hydro place to remove the valve and a long pipe to turn the valve to remove it. ‘Don’t try to return on a Commercial flight with an O2 bottle, they will confiscate it unless the valve is removed and that’s nearly impossible. Scuba tank valves are machine thread, and sealed with an O-ring and once the tank is empty are easy to remove, but this is no Scuba tank ‘If there is rust in side it can be removed by filling the tank with what looks like rocks and putting the tank on a rock tumbler, this will clean the interior to look like new. The Hydro shop can do this of you use the right shop, many sort of specialize in fire extinguishers and they may not, but the ones that specialize in Scuba tanks can and will. To ensure the tank is “Oxygen” clean usually simple green is used to remove any possible trace of oil or grease at all it’s in there with the “rocks”, even a tiny bit of oil in a high pressure O2 will explode like a bomb and or burn with unbelievable intensity, so please nothing but O2 should be put in the bottle. As an IA I disagree with the purpose of an Annual is different, many don’t understand but an Annual is an inspection, it’s not a list of maintenance items to be done like lubrication of flight controls or repacking wheel bearings. This matters in that the only part that the IA is required to do is the inspection, he or she cannot delegate that, the “work” from removing panels to packing wheel bearings can be done by someone else, but the inspection Must be done by an IA.

Leading edge dents are fixed all of the time, find someone who works on crop dusters, they are all the time denting their wings, birds, trees, even telephone poles on occasion, to say nothing of the occasional fence post.

I know you didn’t ask, but don’t forget the anti-seize, there is a special type just for plugs of course.

What that A&P should have done is to give you a list in writing listing each un-airworthy item, I’d make a copy for my files as an A&P, that way when I’m proven correct and you crash, I can show that you were advised, but your right, this isn’t the Military, I don’t believe I have the authority to “ground” your aircraft, but if it’s bad your not leaving until your provided with a list of un-airworthy conditions. ‘But anyway a pre-buy should be really a formality, by that I mean any item you find should be minor or you picked a real dog of a airplane, plus 95% or the really expensive things like for instance severe corrosion is pretty easy to find pretty quickly, before you as a buyer have sunk a whole bunch of money into the inspection. ‘It’s sort of like saying I only want a 100 inspection and not an Annual, well the only difference is an IA signs off the Annual, but he or she can put A&P after their numbers instead of IA for a 100 hr But I’ve seen on this forum that a good pre-buy typically runs 1500 -2,000, and assumption that’s labor only no parts. ‘Well for that kind of money, you should be getting an Annual is what I’m thinking. ‘I don’t know why you would have to stop and buy an airplane and then complete the Annual. ‘It’s not like I’ve bought many aircraft, I haven’t and this last one was done with a handshake between two good ole Southern boys, but we had an agreed on price prior to the inspection, and I wasn’t going to worry about nickel and dime stuff, for instance the blind encoder was bad, tires were flat spotted, little stuff like that I’ll “eat” I was only worried about the big stuff, you know like the corrosion someone just found in a wing of an aircraft they just bought that may require new wings, burnt out lightbulbs, flat spotted tires, that’s not worth getting confrontational about, I already beat him down $6,000 and that was about all I was going to get, from that point I either buy or walk, so the Annual was completed and I left with a squeak list of things that I wanted to fix, like the blind encoder.

Other than the rudder, what travel board is needed, can’t you measure flaps, ailerons and elevator with a prop protractor, or good level?

If it’s more comprehensive than an annual, then why would you not want it counted as one, reset the clock for another year? As an IA if I sign off an Annual, there are minimum performance standards that I have to meet. ‘There are none for a pre-buy, but your choice, your paying. ‘This makes as much sense as saying an engine repair meets the standards for an overhaul, but I don’t want an overhaul entered in the books, Why?

I think the wool while costing more will last much longer so in the long run it may be cheaper. You only regret spending on quality once.

1100 maybe? The cylinder studs on the old KZ and early Zuki’s were fine from memory, it took a turbo and bike running in the mid 8’s before the trans gears tried to walk over each other and pull the case bolts out. I raced about 80-82 got Married in Jan 83 so racing was out from then on.

The more load you put on an electric motor the more amps it draws, I believe the 40 amps comes from that being the max load that you can put on the motor without burning it out, it’s surely not a continuous duty motor ‘The 4200 RPM should be a no load RPM. ‘Curious, what voltage is it rated at? 12 or 14? On edit just looked at the picture, yes 40 amps gives you .20 HP, but as it’s a 12V motor and we have a 14V electrical system, it will actually give more HP at rated amps, assumption is 25 amps gives more than is needed so why wire etc for 40? CB’s work off of heat buildup of course so they can actually pass much more than rated current for short intervals. This may be an interesting read, yes it’s talking boats, but theory is the same and this is easily understandable https://www.bluesea.com/support/articles/Circuit_Protection/95/Choosing_Circuit_Protection Look at the trip delay curve here, this is for a blue sea 25 amp breaker https://www.bluesea.com/products/7354/C-Series_White_Toggle_Circuit_Breaker_-_Single_Pole_25_Amp Rule of thumb is try to reset it once, but each time you reset it and it pops, it will pop at a lower amperage each time, the reason is it’s getting hotter and hotter and since heat is what trips it, it will trip faster or at lower amperage each time, plus you could overheating wiring ‘I’m surprised you got it to work, assuming it’s not broken of course.

I’d get a flash light and and an inspection mirror and discover just exactly what’s wrong. ‘My guess is that three points are in the track and one riding on top, but I think you need to know before you start applying force.

That’s interesting as the Meyers 200D is often quoted as the fastest single engine N/A GA aircraft, and I believe they are about 185 kts, so yes 190 is fast in my book

I imagine it is fast, the 250 is no slob, it was one of the airplanes on my short list. The Mooney works for us as since I’m old and retired there are only two of us, but if there were occasionally four I would have looked harder for a 250

Surely that occurred after the cam removal, i’d guess he still has it and it sat around in a shop etc and rusted. ‘However I believe how or where an aircraft is kept as well as frequency of flight has a lot to do with it, an airplane kept outside will get corrosion faster than one in a hanger and a Florida airplane will get it before an Arizona airplane. I now live in Fl and from my little bit of looking at aircraft to buy, would recommend avoiding Fl aircraft, and if its been kept on the ramp to most likely don’t even go look. I went to look at a 79J, new paint in 05 and new interior a couple of years ago, thought it sounded real good. Airplane wasn’t in my opinion even airworthy from excessive corrosion, sad to say but I think he killed it, I didn’t even bother looking close, the liner in the wheel wells actually had holes in them from corrosion. ‘School aircraft usually makeTBO or well beyond, and if you think about it, they are operated in a manner we were always told will kill engines, not properly warmed up, excessive, repeated full throttle excursion and pulled back to idle after full throttle over and over So far as checking can lobe condition, about all you can do is pull two cylinders and look. and even that’s not a guarantee, as was said, all it takes is a small defect and it will spread, once you get through the exceedingly thin hardened surface, it goes fast. ‘How will DLC protect from cam corrosion? Is it the cam, or the lifter or maybe either one that starts it?

I believe that 4th bladder at least for a J is available, I don’t know about other models. I’ll just live with the lower capacity due to cost myself.

Or from the hose on the fuel truck or tank. ‘I’ve gotten small pieces of rubber in my C-140 tanks which are aluminum, so I figure the suppliers hose is breaking down. Old bladders will break down and shed black granules, that’s what told me our C-210 bladders were about ready for replacement. It was a 76 model and I have no idea how old they were.

That’s an excellent use of a helicoil. I would put blue loctite on them when I installed them. Don’t use red. Loctite is to keep them from backing out with the screw, and blue isn’t nearly as permeant as red is. When I was building drag bikes back in the day when we got over about 200 HP, the transmission gears would have so much torque going through them that they would pull the bolts out of the case and split the case, bolts stripped the aluminum case of course. ‘The fix was to drill out and helicoil the case, the larger diameter of the helicoil made it hold into the case much stronger and we never had any more split case problems. ‘Plus for items that are often removed, you have steel on steel threads as opposed to steel on aluminum, I believe that’s why our cylinders heads are helicoiled from the factory, but a lot of cars and motorcycles screw plugs into aluminum heads and it works just fine, so maybe not? ‘However I’ll agree with the other poster, a Timesert is likely superior in most cases, but I would not put one in a head, it could possibly interfere with the plug dissipating heat to the head, probably not, but I wouldn’t do it.

Yes, all exhaust valves are primarily cooled by transferring heat to the head, well except for flat head motors of course, they transfer heat to the block. but there is some oil cooling, just not a whole lot. But the head is partially cooled by oil, as you said the oil can’t take the heat, so enough oil has to be pumped though the head so that the oil doesn’t stay in there long enough to coke, if it just sat there it would. As there is oil flow, and as the head is about the hottest thing in the engine, up to and sometimes even over 400F, and oil is about half that, it will pick up significant heat. There isn’t as much oil flow as we might think though, it’s not much more than a dribble. Just like pistons, most of their heat is transferred to the cylinder, but many pistons get significant cooling from the oil. many engines spray oil onto the bottom of the piston solely to oil cool them. Then turbo’s the center section anyway on aircraft turbo’s is oil cooled. ‘Just saying oil is a coolant too, not just a lubricant. ‘On edit, the primary reason for what seems like excessive cooling fins around the exhaust is to cool the exhaust portion of the head, that is a very hot area as of course all of the heat from combustion passes through there, the fins aren’t for valve cooling.

Your cars and trucks are air cooled too. Yes they have radiators full of coolant, but what cools the radiator? Point that out to someone with a Rotax and see how confused they become A not insignificant amount of heat is carried away by oil in any four stroke motor, just saying oil is an important coolant too, to say nothing of turbo’s that’s why we have an oil cooler, and low oil level usually will mean hotter oil. The oil cooler won’t “know” there is less oil. it remains full, but the same amount of heat will be carried to the oil cooler with less oil, dumping the same amount of heat into less fluid raises its temp.

It’s not uncommon, in fact it is what should be happening. The same amount of heat has to be carried away by the oil regardless of the amount of oil. so the less oil there is, the less there is to carry the same heat, so it’s hotter. Hot oil loses its viscosity and therefore pressure will drop with viscosity. I know I’m going to start another you don’t know what your talking about fiasco, but here goes. Our engines and actually pretty much all engines are more oil cooled than air or water cooled. It’s actually really only the heads that are air cooled, everything else is oil cooled. The cylinders don’t actually get very hot and yes they are primarily air cooled. The cylinders are more of a heat sink for the heads than get hot themselves But the camshaft, the crankshaft and everything else in the engine case and accessory case is oil cooled and the oil is air cooled, so in point of fact all engines are air cooled, except boat motors if you look at it that way. ‘But my point is that oil carries a significant amount of heat away, it’s an important cooling medium

There are a few like that where I live too, and I’ve participated in one and it was flaky, not sure I will another. This was years ago, maybe 1989? Anyway there were 6 ships staggered right. Gun 6 took the photo. ‘Good thing about airplanes is if you bump wings it’s probably OK, helicopters, not so much