A64Pilot

I’ve never flown a Cirrus, but it’s my understanding that they are flown with trim, with the side stick, I would expect that. ‘I have flown a Lot of C-210 time, and the controls are so heavy many if not most are running the trim up on final. ‘Finally Ray Maule gave me my check out and however many hours dual insurence required, he taught on final, run the trim full up, that gives you neutral stick force in a slow approach. Landing slow in a three point attitude is the best way for a novice pilot to handle a Maule It was the Maule that taught me to not do that, on go-around when you slammed that IO-540 to full throttle. it literally took both hands pushing hard to keep the airplane from a zoom climb, and then of course a stall, and with full throttle probably a half turn spin before you impacted, I’m not sure a lightly built pilot could have held the nose down it was so bad, really a bad thing to teach in my opinion, Maule stick forces are nothing compared to the 210 so it was unnecessary

Hoppes #9 $15 a quart and of course it stays good, you reuse it over and over. Don’t buy the tiny bottles, I used to shoot a lot. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hoppes-No-9-Gun-Bore-Cleaner-Powder-Solvent-1-Quart/23237549 Usually what’s used to de copper high velocity rifle barrels like 220 swift, 22-250 etc is a very high concentration of ammonia cleaning solutions, lead is usually mechanically cleaned out, I don’t think Hoppes is very aggressive on metals, not like ammonia is anyway. Hoppes goes after carbon from burnt powder really well I used an ultrasonic with stainless steel interior, buy an ultrasonic, you’ll use it for all kinds of things from cleaning jewelry to lawnmower carburetors. a 50/50 mix of Mr Clean and water works wonders for most stuff. ‘On edit I bought Gami’s for my IO-540, waste of money. My IO-360 runs smooth until it just loses so much power it pretty much dies, I don’t know what the “Gami spread” is but it will run smooth leaned to 5 GPH at 22 squared, won’t fly power is so low, but it’s still smooth.

The local expert on the field told me that, as I was an A&P prior to being a civilian pilot I’ve not really worried about what a pilot is or isn’t allowed to do Just looked it up. funny how Xponders and DME are disallowed? But you can R&R an ILS receiver, but not DME? Wonder why? AFCS I can see the justification there.

That’s standard Garmin, if they do like they do for boat electronics, next time you call they will tell you its no longer supported. you have to shell out big money for the new Garmin xxx. ‘Will they fix a 430 still? Seems honestly just like yesterday when it was the new greatest thing. I expect they may have stopped with it. ‘However it’s what I love about the old King stuff, even decades old, you can still get it fixed

This, either short flight or possibly high altitudes where it was really cold

Modern automobiles are in essence FADEC, and have significant software in the systems, and engine control software is very hard to get Certified. I would be interested to know what Cirrus went through with the Vision jet, if I hadn’t read it, I would have told you what they have done wasn’t possible. But aircraft engines won’t really respond or need nearly as much timing variation an automobile does as we operate in a narrow RPM band and load, where a car operates in a very wide RPM and load range. ‘Plus play much with timing and you can set up resonance frequencies that can wreck props, don’t believe me, call Hartzell Propellor. ‘Having said all of that, I would gladly swap my (D) mag for electronic ignition, real hot ignition among other things out to allow for wide electrode gaps, and that with the proper plug type will make things like starting much better, to say nothing of making lean mixtures initiate burn more reliably ‘If it were self generating, wouldn’t that make it a electronic magneto? I wonder how big that second battery has to be and how is it wired, can it be simply connected to the first via a diode bank? On edit, probably are going to hear it’s $10,000 or something, which for me makes it unobtanium

I use soapy water and a brush, or an eye dropper. Idea is to not have any bubbles, any bubbles means a leak, if you were careful with a spray bottle I’m sure that would work, just dribble the liquid out

If they are brass, definitely. If chrome sure, but I doubt it’s going to help, maybe chrome just clean with alcohol or whatever. ‘I can’t quote chapt and verse, but it’s my understanding a pilot can remove a radio, but can’t reinstall. As they are pretty much identical operations I don’t understand that. On installation I let the screw get started and screw it in until the radio begins to move, then pressing both sides evenly I seat the radio by hand. I do this in the hope by doing it by hand I’ll feel if it catches where the screw would continue to apply pressure until maybe something broke. but anyway turn the screw until it takes up the slack, then push the radio fully seated, take up slack, seat by hand again, it often takes twice, then tighten the screw until snug, not real tight, your not trying to hold it tight, just to keep the radio from loosening, but I have never seen one busted. ‘I’ve never had one catch on anything either, but with what radios cost, I hand seat just in case ‘Look at the holding device, prior to installation ensure it’s turned in reverse, then install and screw it in a little, pull gently on the radio, it shouldn’t come out of course,it is possible to have it not right, and then it won’t hold the radio in. Once in a blue moon removing a radio and using a pencil eraser to clean the contacts helps, but you really can’t clean the ones in the rack, maybe with contact cleaner. ‘Oh, and all I have ever seen were internal wrenching, takes an allen wrench not a screwdriver, and I haven’t seen one that took a metric wrench, but I bet that’s coming

As has been said, some grass is smoother and as firm as pavement, I prefer grass over pavement, it’s easier on the aircraft. Then there are gravel bars ‘I live on a grass strip, rougher than I’d like but it’s been OK so far. I keep the lower gear doors on, and in my case I think it’s the gear donuts if anything that won’t last as long as if I were on pavement as my strip is bumpy, I’m a J model but we have a TLS on the field too But if you want to fly the backcountry, get yourself a Super Cub or a Maule, an IO-540 Maule is pretty capable, although for pure back country a 360 with fixed prop could be argued to be better, but as airplanes go Maule’s are undervalued, meaning for an airplane pretty inexpensive, the SC on the other hand is just the opposite. ‘Don’t “wack” it and a couple of years later when you get it out of your system, you should be able to sell it and lose no money if you were careful buying. Lots of people buy and sell airplanes ever year or two and fly for pretty much nothing, they of course buy “right”, several even make not an insignificant amount of money doing it, same as the Stock Market, similar risks I guess. Off airport is fun, it’s something that every pilot should enjoy, but like everything else having the right equipment really helps.

There are inexpensive elastic nets used on motorcycles to secure stuff to the seat, they are made from bungee cord. ‘One of those would work well to secure stuff on the hat rack if you wanted, only light stuff of course Seems even harbor freight has one https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-x-15-in-motorcycle-cargo-net-69621.html?cid=paid_google|||69621&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw38-DBhDpARIsADJ3kjmkXYxRG6AUY_qUdRzoREzYzw5iNHZTzVkojtpwqxMGOQ4hql8ETB8aArCcEALw_wcB

Well the first reading is incorrect, as it can’t be replicated. Possibly a argument could be made that oil i’s draining out of the prop or something if it increased level over time and stayed that way. ‘But I’m assuming your only high reading is the first one, when you remove the stick, and all further measurements are lower? Other than the cooling thing forming a vacuum and pulling oil up the tube, I can’t come up with a logical reason the perceived oil level is higher than actual. However I would still go with the remove the stick, wipe it off and check it indicated level, and not the original higher level as I assume it’s not repeatable. Could always call Continental, I’ve heard they have a good service desk? Whatever they say is what I would go by, even if proves me wrong

The second one most likely. ‘My C-85 does that trick too, and it took me awhile to figure it out, on the C-85 the rather large tube that the stitck goes into extends into the oil tank, and its opening is under the oil level. ‘The dip stick has a good air tight seal, so what happens is when you shut down, it’s hot and as the trapped airspace cools off if forms a slight vacuum that will pull oil up into the tube, giving a false high reading. ‘So you have to remove the dip stick, wipe it off and re-insert it to get the true oil level, and it will likely be much lower than just pulling the stick out and looking will indicate. Now I do not know that’s what’s going on with your 550, but I do know that the best way to check any engine is to remove the stick, wipe it clean, reinsert it and check. Just remembered the Yanmar 4JHE in my sailboat was the same way, on boat motors they run the dipstick tube to the bottom of the oil pan so that you can use it to suck the oil out to change oil, and it did the same thing as my C-85 Just threw the sailboat motor in as an example, not trying to say it has anything to do with aircraft engines

You guys are really only getting 130ish kts true out of your J’s ?

Except that those that posted don’t use regular alcohol Rain-X are correct, I never had any problem with it, but it apparently WILL damage acrylics. I guess I didn’t use it often or long enough for the damage to become apparent

float chargers if they are at the correct voltage for an AGM do help, but unlike automobiles which may have significant dark current, we have a master relay that disconnects everything except the keep alive power for a clock, and apparently in some models the interior light, so our batteries shouldn’t run down much. ‘I believe the self discharge rate for an AGM is about 3% per month, but if you don’t fly often, a good battery tender is a good thing to have.

If you have a real need or use for a turbo, by all means get a turbo. ‘I live in Fl and may never go over any real mountains, and if I do the J model is perfectly happy at 15,000 or 16,000, maybe higher. It just takes time to get there, and once there it’s sort of a dog compared to a turbo,but if your only going there once or twice a year or less do you need a turbo? Which is completely different of course for those that live at altitudes that I normally fly at, and have mountains nearby ‘A lot of how much more does it cost has to do with your familiarity of a turbo and your desire to use it, but that I mean if you always fly at max boost, it’s going to cost you more, really similar to a NA motor, run a NA motor at 65% power or less all of the time except for climb and at TBO it’s likely all the expensive parts won’t need replacing. I’d say plan on 20% more on motor costs, it may be less and if it is, then it’s a pleasant surprise. ‘If you don’t mind me asking, what are you spending $1,000 a month on? Flying a whole lot or upgrades? I would think a turbo Mooney could be flown quite a lot and maintained perpetually on $1,000 a month, but then I’m just maintaining old avionics and not replacing with glass either. ‘So I guess I’m saying maintaining, not improving

Don’t have a clue what your talking about, your link is to the entire manual. But then I’m not real computer literate Maybe take a screen shot and post a picture of that?

On my 550 and I’d assume here also, two minutes. 3/8’ wrench if memory serves to disconnect the line and a 7/16” deep well socket to pull the injector. ‘Mine I don’t believe came apart, I never tried but I think they were one piece, remove the injector and using the straw on a can of carb cleaner blow though it backwards to clean it out. ‘But be very careful, have a rag around it so no cleaner sprays into your eyes, because that stuff burns like fire if it does. ‘Pulling an injector is pretty much identical to pulling a plug, just a much smaller thing

it tough to figure out what’s he really saying, For instance was it just EGT? 1350 isn’t really that high? Or did he have high cyl head temps also? But “flickering” is not a word normally used for properly functioning sensors. ‘really hinges on whether or not there were high cyl head temps to go along with abnormal EGT

Detonation will also make cyl head and egt go nuts On edit if it’s a clogged injector then that one cylinder will display abnormalities during run up now. Nedd to know what was flickering between 300 and 500 though

The cyl head temp was changing between 300 and 550? Ifit was changing rapidly,I’d suspect a sensor error

Are we talking EGT or cyl head temp or likely both? I’d do a leak down test, if it passes that then it’s most likely good. I would suspect first injector then start looking for manifold leaks. Don’t be afraid to swap injectors to help trouble shoot,you can always put them back. Percent power when it acted up? And were you LOP? How long before you reduced power and did the power reduction cool it off?

Concorde also makes Lifeline batteries, they are not aviation batteries, they are AGM deep cycle batteries, and for all intents and purposes pretty much identical to the Aircraft Concorde. ‘They have by far the absolute best, most comprehensive battery manual in existence, believe it or not but their AGM batteries do best when the battery is allowed to accept all the charge amps you can feed it. As long as the voltage is correct, you cannot push too many amps into one, the battery will only accept what it can handle, as it’s SOC or state of charge increase, acceptance rate will decrease. ‘So if you have a big ole powerful charger, as long as it’s voltage is correct, you can’t push too many amps into a Concorde battery. However if it’s voltage is too high, of course you can. ‘Anyway, sit down and do some reading, as I said this is by way far away the best, most comprehensive battery manual there is, especially for AGM’s http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/6-0101-Rev-E-Lifeline-Technical-Manual.pdf One of the required checks during annual is to determine the reserve capacity of a battery, although it’s seldom done, but if you fly IFR much, you may want to ensure it’s done, cause once that alternator or voltage regulator quits, it’s the reserve capacity of the battery that’s going to get you down safely. I wish battery desulphators worked, but they don’t. About the only way to partially recover from sulphation is an equalization charge, how to do it is in this manual. Lifeline I believe calls it a conditioning charge, but most people refer to it as a equalization charge. ‘The Godber family owns and runs Concorde battery, they are a US company, in the US that employees US citizens and manufactures in the US. To some that may be important. ‘I had my bad Gill experience. almost cost me a bundle, I won’t make that mistake again, but to be honest it was a Gill wet cell, not an AGM

Touch some of it with a soldering iron, see if it will melt. I think that may point to a plastic, if it chars I think that may point towards something like cotton? As I said if it’s organic, I believe bleach will make it change color. I think I would get a 55 gl barrel and using the boost pump, pump the tanks dry, put an inline filter in the line, you can use cheap vinyl plastic hose you get at home depot, no pressure and your not using it for long, plus of a slug of anything goes though, you’ll see it. Inspect the inside of the tanks and using an inexpensive electric fuel pump, pump the fuel back in, again going through an inline filter. That ought to get you back to clean fuel. ‘I’m betting the person that said it came from a filter on the truck breaking down, called it. ‘Bond everything together and connect to a ground of course, don’t let the fuel air drop into the drum, put the hose to the bottom of the drum

SWR should be a lot lower than that, approaching 1to1? I believe from other radios 1.5 to 1 is good, above 2 not so good? I’ve never seen it change from one end of the Co-ax to the other, but then I haven’t measured both ends, but if it is, wouldn’t that point to Co-Ax? As I usually work on older aircraft. if I change an antenna the Co-Ax is replaced too as a matter of course. Probably some knowledgeable person could make a case that Co-Ax has a finite life. I’ve not had many antennas go bad, I’ve replaced them because the base was corroded and looked bad, but the antenna worked fine,but those were “stick” antenna’s not blades like on my J. I assume our antennas require a ground plane, and if so then the aircraft supplies that ground plane, then the electrical bonding between the antenna and fuselage may should be checked? I have question marks as I’m not stating facts, but things I believe to be true