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About SSimpson77

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/28/1977

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Grants pass, Or
  • Interests
    Family, flying, open wheel race cars, hunting, salmon fishing
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  1. I hope this plane is worth every bit of $52k and then some and both seller and buyer feel good about transaction. Beauty and deal is in the eye of the beholder, some of us just happen to see monetary value in every part bolted to the plane and its depreciation rate. My tanks haven’t been sealed since 1992! I’m sure someone was trying to tell the previous owner back in 1999 ,”boy, them tanks are 7 years old, gonna have to kick that down about $4,000 because they might leak tomorrow”(circa1999) What are you hoping to save, $3k maybe $7k tops. I know I’ve lost that and gained that in a few
  2. Great looking C! I agree, you’re paying half price for those avionics! Make sure to ask for a SB-208 inspection, tubular frame inspection. The great thing is buying a runout engine you aren’t as stressed about cam issues and lifters. Just make sure she makes rated power if you plan on trying to get a few years out of her/him, that’s what’s most important in an engine. Fuel Tank sealant? All paperwork with the STC’s? Logs? Corrosion in wheel wells? I can tell you who not to use for a PPI but if you grab someone from Arizona, you’ll be okay. Best of luck! Great plane and great group of
  3. Sheriff23, check with Costaero about what kind of deal they can get you on the 900. Seems like everyone is pretty competitive with prices right now, within $100 dollars of each, but every time I've called Chris or messaged him, I've gotten a response within a few minutes. I was undecided on what to get in my C next, (355, 430, 830, AV-30C, 327...) but figured engine monitor will pay off first, both in safety and possibly fuel saved (I'm really hoping my carburetor induction system is tuned like a dragster! even flows!) Also I figured I might make $1000 back from old gauges possibly.
  4. Igor, if you don’t mind me asking, which pull breakers did you go with? I have the trip type and soon to be doing a panel upgrade starting off with 900 and figure I’ll start my planning and layout design.
  5. Every time I see the term “I’m an engineer” I laugh and think of this: https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1999-oct-01-mn-17288-story.html I can say that joke because I was once an engineer, but in my line of work an engineer just drives. I bet that drives some of you crazy...
  6. Chris, I just finished up a patch on my C. Not all that bad really. I wouldn’t suggest the tool above, it’s too thick and could bend the lip. I bought a bunch of different kinds of scrapers and plastic molding tools from harbor freight and nothing worked. Here’s what I found was best: #1. Tell your mechanic what your doing. You’ll need his support when you think your doing it wrong and him to approve of the work. #2. drain tank- even pulling the sump-drain leaves about 2 cups of 100LL in tank. I recall a quote my dad told me when I was young- a cup of gas vaporized is as dangerous as 6
  7. Thanks for the input. Can’t wait to get rid of old stiff seal.
  8. Sent you a message. This might be a silly question, what’s the large rectangular piece for? Is that if I was missing the top of doghouse?
  9. @GEE-BEE those look very nice. I was gonna install some new silicone seals in my C, I think this is a better route. Do I get these through you? TIA
  10. Thanks for the pics and info @Robert Hicks. I just ordered mine this morning and the clamp from alpha aviation. $220 a side is a great deal. I disliked the inertia reel type, I didn’t think that bulky reel looked good and would hit my head on it but that could be me trying to justify being cheap.
  11. @KJC1333, you have already started off you’re search on a good note. I’m located in Grants Pass (3S8) and if your somewhere near southern Oregon, I wouldn’t mind picking you up and letting you see space for yourself and get a feeling for what a basic C model does. I’ve filled the back seats with kids and my wife up front, 195/120/75/75 lbs and still topped off tanks and had plenty of w&b to play with. I’m still learning the plane (~200 hrs) and haven’t gotten close to high density altitude yet, but I don’t push the book numbers. I stay well below the weights and balances as a safety mar
  12. I’ve watched your videos prior to me getting my ‘65 “C” . Always loved the simplicity and thoroughness of your approach to flying. Your ranger is looking good but just noticed the red stripe on the hat today. Thanks for representing, I’m from local 935, San Bernardino County , Ca. Sorry, I know it’s a thread hack.
  13. https://hackaday.com/2018/02/08/the-tachometer-inside-your-smartphone/ this app is actually really neat. I’ve used it to diagnose different vibrations and hertz fq to find out which bearing are getting worn out on automotive and race motors. Every rotating part has some sort of frequency and harmonics to it. I wouldn’t calibrate my tachometer to it, but will give you an idea how far off you “could” be. Steve
  14. Good day everyone, my older Apollo SL60 is unable to update its database and I have no intention of upgrading right now to a newer GPS unit. With that, is there anybody out there with a PDF or word doc would be better, of the US airports and their ICAO identifiers and their old identifiers if they had one? example- (KGOO) Nevada County {O17} (KMPI) Mariposa {O68} TIA
  15. Sounds like the same issue I’m having with my accutrak. I also found the same hose cracks along the servo lines and gyro lines. It’s hard to find the exact size hose. Chief aircraft had some stuff, thinner wall but snug fit to fittings. National aviation parts association had some small vacuum line that felt like it would collapse under 5” of vacuum. Went with the Chief stuff. I figured it’s something in my rigging that I need to correct before checking gyro. When I press the DC button on yoke, my plane has a slight tendency to bank/turn left.
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