lvpazik

My airplane does in fact have the TurboPlus system. AS far as the merlyn, the company is out of business so I didn't pursue anything. I ended up purchasing 3 new cylinders for 2/4/6. I can't diagnose or control metal fatigue and have no clue how this engine was taken care of prior to my purchasing it. I am well aware of slower throttle advance while the Turbo spools up but I often fly out of shorter runways and I rarely over boost this engine. I spoke with the machine shop that rebuilds engines, cylinders etc. They also told me a small over boost for a very short time (couple of seconds) should not do the damage they saw on this cylinder. I will be more focused on takeoff roll and am excited to be adding three new cylinders.

I own a 1980 M20K 231 with a Continental TSIO 360 (GB Engine). First turbo of many I've owned that as a "manual" waste gate. Anyone aware of any retrofit that can turn "any" turbo install on this engine into an automatic waste gate? I pay attention closely however a couple of times over the last 35 hours it's pushed just past the max barely into the red range (41 inches ) but only for about 2 seconds before being corrected. I normally push to 38 or 39 inches for takeoff but on those rare occasions the turbo has kind of surged to the 41 inch number but I quickly caught it.

Ran compression check on all cylinders. #2 is dead. 1,3,5 all very good. I've ordered 3 brand new cylinders to replace 2,4,6. Already had 1,3,5 rebuilt about 18 months ago....couldn't find new anywhere....

#4 started running hot right after rotation and a minute into climb out. Analyzer showed 500 degrees. Then heard what I thought was a knocking and could smell something. Immediately put to idle, turned back and safely landed. When at idle, temp is normal and no knocking. I live 60 miles outside of Vegas in Pahrump. Have my own hangar with power but no running water. 74P is airport. I have a career mechanic on field but he worked mostly for the majors and prefers staying away from certified aircraft. Anyone out there in Southern Cal or Arizona that can fly in and diagnose? Hoping it's just a cylinder. If it is would want same person to remove it and I'll get a replacement cylinder for installation. I know this is a stretch but thought I'd ask....

If still for sale I'll take it.

Hi. I own a 1979 Mooney M20K N922PT Serial Number 25-0273 Trying to locate/purchase a “master” power switch. The one I’ve got is failing and working only part of the time.

Advice, on my 1980 M20k 231, on the floor in the middle, is a "window" and I believe when the gear is safely extended the window has a "green" indicator. Challenge I have, especially with black carpeting, is "seeing" what the indicator is or isn't. Just plain hard to see through the window. Is this supposed to have some type of small light inside of it?? The window isn't new but it's not scratched up however if I could replace it with new I probably would....

Thanks for response Paul. This is my second Mooney and I never skip on maintenance, quite the opposite. I purchased June 2020 and had a full annual performed in Florida by a shop that does primarily Mooney's. They didn't catch it and the local shop only caught it because #3 cylinder after the annual was quickly overheating during run up at take off power. They had a heck of a time figuring it out and even contacted Continental to discuss, and that's when Continental told them of the critical bulletin which I of course authorized. Turns out the #3 cylinder had cracked which was weird. WE lost #1 in flight, replaced it and I had #3 and #5 rebuilt at same time. Flew it over an hour from where it broke down to the local shop here for a check out and then annual inspection. First time we went to fly it from the shop after inspection, my pilot who was flying it when we lost #1 did the ground run to make sure everything was ok and low and behold all of a sudden #3, which was fine when we brought it there, was cracked. Now I've got her home after being in the shop for months and starting it "cold", is a real bear. We've got to keep hitting the primer button, the "low boost" button quickly seems to flood it so back to the primer button and we have to get it up to 1700 rpm initially to keep it running. So frustrating to me!! I've attached a video he took while starting it last night to bring it home. You can hear it struggling and I believe you can see/hear him frequently hitting the primer button to get the darn thing running while he's trying to get it to "catch".....frustrating. IMG_2174.3gp

Just got my M20K out of annual. There is a "Critical Service Bulletin" issued by Continental to remove the diverter. I have attached the bulletin and picture.....my question to qualified A&P's out there that know this engine is: I had a local Mooney dealer adjust the fuel flows/pressures during the annual. The diverter was removed afterwards. Would removal of the diverter affect the fuel setup? I only ask because a cold start on this engine is now extremely difficult. Anyway for purposes of this response, see the Continental bulletin I am attaching. HNDLibraryPrint2_002158.pdf

Lost #1 cylinder. Replaced it and had #3 and #5 rebuilt while that side of engine was torn down. Flew it 45 minutes to Mooney service center to have rough idle looked at. Had full annual inspection done at same time. Boroscope/compressions all good and shop said sees nothing wrong with engine. Upon full power runup prior to bringing her home, #3 on the analyzer very quickly (within 20 seconds) shows temps going to over 500 degrees. Shop has switched out injectors, doubled checked fuel settings, swapped out probe leads and don't believe cylinder is truly overheating. They've spoken to Continental who says it's not feasible for a cylinder to overheat that quickly. Shop has shot the engine with an infrared temp gun after runup and all cylinders show normal. They have no clue what to do next. When we flew her to the shop, (45 minutes flight), to have fuel injection system balanced and annual done, all cylinders were normal. Plane hasn't left shop since then but all of a sudden #3 on the analyzer shows "hot". Any ideas?

So I've got a 1980 M20 K in for annual. Last annual was July2020 and last pitot static check and transponder cert was 11/2019. Current shop telling me there's a pitot static leak, traced it all the way to the gear safety switch that doesn't allow the gear to retract below a certain speed. When they bypass the switch the pitot static pressurizes just fine wiht no leak. Question I have is, isn't there an SB or something that allows this switch to be disconnected from the system? I thought this was an option.

CHT did redline which caused pilot to quickly land, but it did happen. He said EGT hit 1350 once but then "flickered" between 300-550 afterwards. There is a full engine analyzer in airplane however I live 3.5 hours away so not practical for me to travel just to access it.

#1 cylinder reached excessive heat yesterday during flight from Vegas to Ramona. Put her down in Banning airport Banning CA. Oil temp and pressure and other cynlinders normal. Not sure if lost just a cylinder or worse. No mechanic on field. Looking for qualified mechanic that can look engine over on field, checking compressions, doing boroscope and overall "look see". Trying to diagnose issue to see how bad it is or isn't. Brand new paint job less than 9 months old hence trying to prevent any lower cowling damage and don't believe one person can remove and replace lower cowling without it hitting pavement etc. Randy Pazik 702-204-7891 N922PT Continental TSIO-360-GB engine with only 400 hours on it since last rebuild.

A&P has Electroaire ignition switch wired up, replacing keyed ignition switch. Does anyone have a schematic on how the tach wire is attached/routed to the magneto wire? Additionally, are there any resistors that need to be put within that part of the system, in case the tach shorts out, preventing the magnetos from being grounded by a bad tach? All and any help/schematics appreciated.

Purchased 1980 M20K 231 N922PT. Had complete annual inspection done as part of prebuy including rebuilt mechanical fuel pump. Ferry pilot flew it across the country from Florida to Pahrump NV with no issues. I flew the airplane once for 1 hour total time and it has sat for 60 days. Now won't idle and have to keep hitting low boost or primer. Local mechanic who is an excellent mechanic but has no Mooney experience did some adjustments. Mooney mechanic in Florida that did the annual and works mostly on Mooney's said "these engines don't like to sit and you'll have to completely readjust the fuel flow and pressure settings. They adjusted the rebuilt fuel pump at "sea level" and our field level here is 2700 feet if that matters. After some adjustments we've got it starting fine however it's still running too rich and the fuel psi on the EI instrument won't go over 5.7 whether at idle or 2000 rpm. When we "lean" her out from idle speed of 650, she rises almost 200 rpm before she starts to die and I believe the manual says it should be around 60 rise before it starts to die. We seem to be chasing the issue. Any advice or any qualified Mooney mechanics in Vegas area that can drive out the 60 miles to my hangar in Pahrump, with the gauges they need, adjust the airplane with my mechanic so he "learns" the system and get her flying? I have another plane/pilot and could pick you up and bring you back if you don't want to make the drive. Local mechanic has all tools except what I believe are some specialized gauges to properly adjust this injection system. Thoughts?