PT20J

USAIG last four years. But, I also have had it from Allianz Global and Old Republic.

I put the pdf file on a thumb drive and took it to a print shop and had it printed out D size.

USAIG didn’t require an IPC, but applied a discount for having one.

Hull is $3443 Liability is $663 $1,000,000/100,000 would have been $338 lower. I think that shows you where the insurance company thinks their exposure is. Parker asked them if there was anything that would bring the rate down and the answer was, "Sorry, no The gear ups are killing us." Skip

I'm paying $4106 for $250K hull and $1MM smooth liability.

The other was “Nick of Time.”

Is stealing fuel caps common in Canada?

One thing that may help is flying more. In chatting with the adjuster over my nose gear damage claim (caused by an FBO) he told me that they really like to see >100 hrs/yr.

The ground connection “splice” looks like a knife disconnect so that the socket can be removed. Auto store butt splices usually only crimp the bare part of the wire providing little strain relief. You want PIDG butt splices that have a second crimp for the insulated portion also. The best ones are heat shrinkable after crimping to form a seal around the insulation. Be sure to use the proper crimper. https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/brands/pidg.html?tab=pgp-story These are available from Aircraft Spruce and others.

They used a PMA bearing in my overhaul that saved me from the AD McCauley had on its bearings. Lots of shops use PMA parts.

Dan Long and West Coast Governor Service is my go to guy. He once hunted up a used McCauley governor for me, bought it, overhauled it and then sold it to me for a fair price.

1) I don't like the vibration in the yellow arc so I try to avoid it. I usually fly downwind at 20" MAP with the gear down midfield. Abeam the numbers I reduce the throttle until the rpm is at the top of the yellow arc and when the airplane slows to the white arc I put down full flaps and set high rpm. I maintain traffic pattern altitude until the airplane has slowed to 75 KIAS and then adjust throttle if necessary to have the rpm at the bottom of the yellow arc and begin descent. At this point it's about time to turn base. I usually don't have to adjust power until final and then only small changes are necessary. On short final I slow to 65 KIAS for my normal landing weight of around 2400- 2500 lbs. 2) Normal takeoffs for me are 15 deg flaps with about 7 deg pitch up at rotation, gear up at positive rate and accelerating through 80 KIAS I raise the flaps. I maintain 7 deg pitch and the airplane continues to accelerate in the climb and it takes less rudder as the speed increases. These are just my techniques -- there are many ways to accomplish the same result.

There are three, sometimes four tubes. The largest is the crankcase breather and it may drip a little oil depending on how much blow by there is and how high you maintain your oil level. There may be a tube for exhaust air from the vacuum pump. There is the drain tube from the sniffle valve which is at the low point of the induction system. After shutdown, heat expands the fuel in the fuel injector lines and pushes some fuel out the injectors into the intake tubes where it collects in the bottom of the intake manifold and drains out the sniffle valve. There shouldn't be a lot of fuel dripping if you leave the mixture control in idle cutoff. If you push the mixture control toward rich after shutdown, you may get quite a bit of fuel draining out the sniffle as the lines all the way back to the fuel pump may drain as residual heat in the engine compartment forces fuel through the servo and out the injectors and down through the sniffle valve. The sniffle valve has a little ball in it that gets sucked closed when the engine is running to prevent air from entering the induction system through the valve which results in a lean mixture. A stuck sniffle valve usually only causes a rough idle since the leak isn't large enough to have much effect at high power. The forth hose should always be dry. It connects to the engine driven fuel pump and drains any fuel or oil that collects between the two diaphragms in the pump. If this happens, one of the diaphragms is leaking and the pump needs to be replaced. If the second diaphragm cracks, the pump will stop working. There is also a similar drain protruding from the left exhaust cavity behind these engine drain tubes and this is for the aux fuel pump. It also should always be dry or the pump needs to be overhauled. Skip

My 1978 J had a big OECO attached to the firewall up high under the windshield.

I would remove some inspection panels and look inside the wing and see if you can locate where the fuel is coming from. On some models, some of the panels that are not routinely opened are pop riveted so you might need to drill some rivets out. Replace them with countersunk rivets.

I believe @Tim-37419 is correct. From the AIM

Good move since it's an AD

Maybe a Segway scooter. Then after parking, you can ride it to town.

Yeah, I think it is short for Bussmann which makes fuses.

The over voltage protection circuit within the voltage regulator will shut off the alternator when an over voltage condition occurs. Cycling the field circuit breaker probably resets it although the POH procedure is to cycle the master switch. You should get a steady HI LO VOLTS annunciation if the OVP trips. Check all the wiring to the voltage regulator, master switch and alternator for security first. If all the connections are good and it keeps happening, then replace the voltage regulator.

You have to read the footnotes

The captain once left the fuel dipstick on the wing walk of the DC-3 once (I mean really, how much stuff can you put on a checklist before it becomes a checkbook?) We called the departure airport after landing and they drove out on the runway and found it. Once while taking off I had to dodge a Maule tailwheel left on the runway at Merrill Field in Anchorage. So, apparently, lots of stuff falls off airplanes and gets left behind on runways.

It should be tight against the firewall, probably a little left of center accessed from the pilot’s foot well. It shouldn’t be too buried because the largest part is the garter filter which needs periodic replacement.

I cannot count the times I have returned to the hangar to check whether I turned off the light.

I switch tanks every half hour. I like to keep the plane balanced and also those brass valves like to be exercised or they get stiff. I usually taxi out on one tank and switch before run up. This is primarily to make sure the valve turns freely - I’m really not much concerned that somehow fuel won’t flow through the lines. And, I sumped the tanks, so I know there is no water (BTW, in 6,000 hours of flying a lot of different make and model airplanes, I have found a significant amount of water in the fuel tanks exactly ONCE. But, I still sump the tanks. You never know when twice will occur.) If you want to avoid the biggest risk, check the handle attachment. The only failure I personally know about was a friend in an Archer that had the screw attaching the handle back out and jam the handle in the trim around the selector in a position between tanks where no fuel flowed. In a slight panic, he tried to force it and jammed it worse. He finally got it unstuck. I could easily see the handle on my J coming loose and getting dropped and rolling under the seat. And then there are models with the valves that you cannot hardly reach without gorilla arms or an extension… Skip