PT20J

I got one of these. Used 2 layers of blocks.

My panel draws about 6A @ 28V. My G3 LED landing and taxI lights (2 ea.) draw 6A if all are turned on. LED bulbs draw less current than incandescents, but they still can drain reserve from the battery and they would be the first load I’d shed. (Like many, I leave them on all the time to increase my visibility to other airplanes. I think it works because opposing traffic frequently reports me in sight before I see them).

I don’t have a photo, but the 6 AWG output wire is well supported with clamps and I cable tied the other wires securely to that. I also eliminated the fuse holder connected to the AUX terminal for a tachometer option that was never installed on my airplane.

The Mooney landing gear locks down with over center linkages. This means that any force applied to a wheel in the direction of retraction will just lock it down harder. But, any force applied in the opposite direction (for example, towing from the nose wheel, or the main gear on the outside of a turn or swerve) will tend to straighten the over center linkage. The gear still cannot fold up because the linkage prevents that, but it is important that the linkage returns to the over center position when the load is removed or it can fold. The bungees are there to ensure that the linkage snaps back over center when the load is removed. If the bungees are rigged too loose, I suppose it is possible for a gear to fold up if the conditions are just right.

@Gee Bee Aeroproducts makes some that have a reinforcing fabric layer sandwiched in between two layers of silicone so that they hold their shape better under pressure. I had a rocker cover leak and it turned out to be a pinhole defect in the cover itself.

Same basic type of mechanism, but the gear actuator is much beefier.

Not all over, and not in snow. But I got it once on the windshield flying south over San Mateo CA at about 5000 in the clouds. I could put my finger on the inside of the windshield and move the glow around. It was pretty, and pretty eerie.

It seems from various posts here that the most common failure mode is a broken field wire. I have reinforced the wiring to the alternator to reduce vibration stress and I inspect it every time the cowling is off. Second most common problem seems to be voltage regulators. Mooney used different regulators over the years. I have a suspicion that the newer regulators may be more reliable, but I don’t know for sure. My 1994 MSE has a small Mooney brand. No idea who made it for Mooney, but it’s about the size of a Zeftronics.

Check the actual current draw and the Ahr capacity of your battery. My similar panel will run for 2 hrs on the ships battery.

That might not even be the correct part. From the M20J IPC: 3. BOLT 914004-000 IS MODIFIED NAS1309-28. MACHINE TOLERANCES ON LEG ASSEMBLY EARS MAY CREATE REQUIREMENT FOR A 914004-001 BOLT (MODIFIED NAS1309-30) OR A 914004-003 BOLT (MODIFIED NAS6609-32). PROVIDE LENGTH OF BOLT TO BE REPLACED WHEN ORDERING SPARES.

A lot of Camloc products have gotten crazy expensive. I usually buy Skybolt now.

I’m guessing that @laytonl’s plane has a tone generator and speaker rather than a sonalert as in my 1994 MSE. The warning CB feeds the down limit switch and the tone generator. I would start troubleshooting by disconnecting the connector to the tone generator to eliminate that. Mine is located on the firewall above the left rudder pedal. If that’s not it, I’d disconnect the annunciator panel next. If that’s not it, I’d check all the wiring.

The mechanical fuel pump has two poppet valves. If contamination somehow got to the pump, it could hold one of the valves open and defeat the pump. But contaminants would have to get past the gascolator screen unless the aircraft had an older Dukes aux pump and SBM20-222B to add a filter after the aux pump had not been complied with and the Dukes fuel pump was failing.

How deep is the scoring? Can you catch it with an angled pick? If it is minor, I'd leave it alone and just replace the o-rings. The cylinder is sealed and full of fluid so the only way air is going to get in is around the piston rod seal.

IPC calls for RTV 108.

I would ground all audio shields at the audio panel.

Was that for just the motor, or an entire landing gear actuator?

The procedure is described in detail in the M20J (and presumably others) Service and Maintenance Manual. You pressure bleed from the calipers up and catch the overflow out of the reservoir until the bubbles stop.

Oops, thanks for the correction, Ross. I’ve edited the original to avoid any confusion.

Where did he source it, Paul?

Is this a motor for a gear actuator or a fuel pump? Aeromotors lists capability for Dukes fuel pumps but not actuators. Wouldn't hurt to call. Do you know what is wrong with the motor?

Yep, it's been around since the 1930s Good question. When I bought my airplane, the logs said the fluid had been replaced about 5 years before. When I drained some from the calipers, it was quite discolored and noticeably thickened. So, every year during the annual inspection I drain about half a cup out of each caliper and it's always a bit discolored. I suspect the heat from the brakes affects it. The fluid upstream wasn't noticeably thickened when I had everything apart to put new o-rings in the master cylinders and replace the flexible lines. But, since I had been draining some each year it was probably pretty new fluid. I don't know the system capacity but it's probably not much more than a pint. Some posters here have reported that 5606 gets pretty gooey after awhile. I'll be interested in other's comments. The Air Force switched fluids primarily because 5606 is highly flammable.

Yes. The newer spec is MIL-PRF-5606H, but it's the same thing. If you are changing the brake fluid, you might consider Royco 782. It's a newer synthetic MIL-PRF-83282 fluid that won't congeal with age like 5606 which is a mineral oil. It is fully compatible with 5606, so you don't have to flush the system.

I would use 20 AWG two conductor shielded MIL-SPEC wire. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/shieldwire.php?clickkey=76643

Often items related to electrical parts (such as your switch) are found at the back of the Service & Maintenance Manual.