PT20J

This issue is common and a reason most of us avoid doing manual extensions. I still do it at annual inspection and when I check someone out, but I make sure to pull the cord slowly and straight up. Don Maxwell and LASAR are the best sources for working on these.

Wow. It would seem to take a lot of friction to stick long body elevator in that position since it has both a down spring and a bob weight. Anyway, buy some new eyeball bushings from Mooney and don't lube them. They are difficult to install because you have to remove the yokes and the shafts.

The airplane takes off when lift = weight. Lift is a function of TAS^2; it is not affected by thrust and thus choice of propeller which only affects how quickly the airplane accelerates to takeoff speed. I cannot account for the differences in the POH speeds; there are some anomalies in the Mooney performance data between various models. Perhaps it is a difference in technique by different test pilots. Rotation is really a concept from jets and not directly applicable to piston powered airplanes. The best technique is to apply a small amount of back pressure during the takeoff roll and let the airplane fly off when it's ready rather than trying to yank it off the ground (i.e. rotate) at a particular speed.

I purchased the material used by the factory from a MSC (Oasis Aero). It is light weight foam with aluminized mylar on one side and an adhesive film on the other side. I got a burn cert for it from Mooney to keep my IA happy. Oasis had a bulk roll sold by the foot - I don't remember the width - and I purchased so many feet. With the interior removed, I measured each section that I would need and cut out paper pieces to scale and played around with the pieces to figure out how many feet to order with the least waste. It worked out great. It's noticeably quieter, and much cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.

This is a terrific video on actually landing a Mooney. Besides speed control, the main problem I see with some pilot’s landings is they pull the power to idle (usually a little too high and too fast) and then wrestling the plane to the ground with the elevators alone. There are really four controls that need to be coordinated for a good landing: elevator, ailerons, rudder, and throttle. Also, she doesn’t get a lot of pitch up on the go arounds because she goes to takeoff flaps immediately after adding power and before climbing out of ground effect. It’s really a great demonstration of control of the airplane to make it do exactly what she wants it to do.

Many years ago when contemplating my first airplane purchase, a pilot/owner friend told me that the best part of owning an airplane is that the flying is free. When queried, he explained that the insurance, hangar, inspections and maintenance were so costly that the gas and oil to actually fly it was lost in the noise. However, having the key in your pocket - priceless.

The discrepancy list shows that they did a very thorough inspection which is a good thing. Not all of this needs to be fixed immediately, however, to legally and safely return the airplane to service. I would work with the shop to prioritize. A second opinion is always a good idea and I would not expect a reputable shop to object. I have even had shops call in another mechanic for a second opinion when they saw something questionable. Most of the labor estimates don’t seem unreasonable to me based on my experience. It took my mechanic a couple of hours to mount my McCauley prop on the new engine. And he’s done a lot of them. It’s tricky to torque the nuts and safety wiring with .040 wire is difficult with the nuts recessed in the hub. And properly shimming the spinner takes a bit of trial and error. It appears that your new bird has not been all that well maintained. This is not uncommon. I would just sit down with the shop owner/manager and work out a plan of action. This may be a new situation for you, but I guarantee it’s not the first one for the shop. Good luck

I don’t believe the G1000 had Bluetooth. But even if it did, I would expect a hardwire connection since this is a factory installation. Bluetooth connections to the 345R can be problematic because the bulkhead in the rear of the baggage compartment shields the signal.

This appears to be a message indicating that your ADS-B in device is no longer communicating with the G1000.

By BLACK SCAT I assume you are referring to CAT. SCAT is silicone and good for high temperatures. CAT is neoprene and usually used for air ducting inside the cabin.

No. I just measured mine. I only know the sizes for a M20J. Check with Guy, but his turnaround used to be really fast. You could also check with Frank Crawford at the factory. He might have a manufacturing drawing that has the lengths and diameters.

Mine (IO-360-A3B6) reads 70 in cruise and doesn’t drop below 60 except at idle when hot.

I'd consider ordering SCEET tubing from @Gee Bee Aeroproducts. Guy makes reinforced finished ends and the extra layer of material inside embeds the wire spiral so that it doesn't come loose. You'll most likely never have to replace it again.

It depends. On an approach that I'm familiar with, and I'm very current, and the autopilot is working, and there is not a lot of turbulence or wind shear reported, and there is a convenient alternate nearby with better conditions, I'll happily go to 200-1/2. If any conditions, or combination of conditions are not met, I will increase the planning minimums or cancel the flight depending on the severity or combination of conditions. Once near the destination, only low level turbulence or windshear will cause me to not shoot the approach.

The Mooney switch is made by Cuttler-Hammer (Eaton). You’d want to check that the Honeywell part is compatible.

The flashing annunciator, low voltmeter reading and discharge indication on the ammeter are all telling you the same thing: the alternator is not charging. I would find out why before replacing parts. The easiest thing to check is the wiring. Here’s a troubleshooting guide.

That's just an indication that the alternator is not operating. I'd check all the connections before replacing the VR.

The STC references the AFM and placards, not the POH or Owners Manual. The AFM is required by CAR 3 3.777 and includes the operating limitations. The TCDS will list the applicable AFM. The AFM usually has less information than a POH. The documents may be combined. For example, in my M20J, the limitations section of the POH comprises the AFM and is approved by the FAA as noted in the page footers.

According to the STC installation manual, the instrument units must agree with the units used in the AFM and/or placards. If you do otherwise, probably no one will notice, but there is always the chance that some IA will notice it during an annual inspection. If I changed it so that it does not comply with the STC, I’d change it back before I sold it so it would be legal and not potentially cause an issue for the new owner.

This should do it.

The 121.5 units were never much good. I accidentally set my 406 ELT off for about one second inside a metal hangar. Got a call within 10 minutes. My ELT is connected to my GPS and they had my location.

I believe the STC requires the airspeed units to match the AFM and/or placards.

I added maneuvering and best glide speeds at various weights.

Whatever you do, I would think it through very carefully. You don't want something that could cause the seat to unlatch accidentally as this could kill you on takeoff and you don't want something that isn't foolproof in a emergency where you need to get out of the airplane quickly. I would discuss it with my A&P. The lever is lower on seats with vertical adjustment.

I found some docs from my conversion. Firewall forward hoses.xlsx IO-360-A3B6 Installation.pdf Prop gov installation notes.pdf Prop gov installation pix.pdf Prop gov installation pix.pdf sim20-59a.pdf