PT20J

If the problem is the chain and the chain is not broken but just came loose, you will need to adjust the tension after reinstalling it. Here is the procedure in the service manual:

If the trim position indicator moves when you turn the wheel, the chain and forward gearbox are working. You can easily check the chain by removing the plastic chain cover in the cockpit (three small Phillips screws). If the trim indicator moves with the wheel, then something is disconnected somewhere along the trim shaft. Installing a GFC 500 trim servo requires disconnecting the trim shaft and it’s possible something didn’t get back together correctly. If it’s not the chain or gearbox, check the integrity of all the u-joints along the shaft in the belly and tail. If you can find a problem and fix it, set the trim indicator to takeoff with the wheel and turn the trim shaft so that trim assist bungees hold the elevator in alignment with the stabilizer before connecting everything up.

O-ring is on the end of the plunger. Your mechanic should have a supply of o-rings. Nitrile or Fluorosilicone. Saf-Air is a better design.

Found a picture. Installation agrees with Service Manual.

I missed the caution note in the SMM, so that should supersede the IPC. I had a damaged nose gear leg replaced last year. I'll look to see which way it's installed. Regarding the pivot bolt torque: the entire weight of the nose gear rests on the bottom plate and it wears over time so torque values are somewhat hit or miss. With a new leg, SIM20-209 torque works fine. With my old leg (which was 30 years old and about 1500 hours) that torque was too tight and I had to back it off one hole on the castle nut. Best way to set it is to start with the SI torque and then if the steering is too tight, back it off until it feels right.

Lee, It looks to be an AN4-21. Interesting thing is that your drawing from the service manual shows it installed with the bolt head aft and the M20J IPC shows it installed with the bolt head forward which would be the standard way of doing things. You could call Frank Crawford and point out the discrepancy and see which is correct, but I’m betting the IPC is right.

Depending on the configuration there can be a lot of possibilities because the intercom and audio panel are also involved. 1. What year and model airplane are we talking about? 2. What audio panel do you have? 3. What intercom do you have? 4. Do you have Emergency phone and mic jacks? 5. Do you have a hand mic? 6. Do you have a second com radio?

Most of my scratches are my fault. I might suggest discussing your concerns with the shop manager before they start work. Maybe he can tell the mechanics that the owner is particular and to be careful. After the fact there isn't much the manager can do except apologize. As for putting tools on the airplane, I've been known to do it myself, but it is a bad idea. I had an A&P friend that worked at the United Airlines maintenance depot at SFO and she told me that they had so many instances of opening up airframes and finding tools left inside that they instituted a rule that you could not set a tool down on the aircraft. It's a good policy.

I always go to U42.

There is a period of “valve overlap” at the end of the exhaust stroke/beginning of the intake stroke when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve is beginning to open.

Seems like you could take a clean shop vac with a fresh filter and pressurize the intake and spray all the connections with soapy water same as testing for exhaust leaks.

With Garmin equipment, the wiring often depends on what equipment is installed. When I had a GTX 345 installed, its audio output connected to an unswitched input on the audio panel. When I had the G3X installed, the audio from the GTX was removed because the G3X gets digital data from the GTX and the G3X supplies the audio to the audio panel.

I got one. The frame was too stiff and caused it to pop off and it didn’t work on the pilot’s side window because the latch for the storm window is in the way. I kept it in the plane an a trip through Texas and the heat while parked outside softened the glue and the frame slid out if position. I threw it out and used the case to keep a static cling shade in. The zipper on the case is now broken.

Circuit breakers exist to protect wiring. They have a secondary use for deactivating a circuit manually if they are the push on, pull off type. Some voltage regulators react to an overvoltage failure by intentionally causing a short in the field circuit to trip the field breaker and disable the alternator. The 70 amp breaker protects the wire between the alternator and the main bus. The alternator cannot supply enough current to trip this breaker but the battery could if there were a short circuit in this wire.

Last I heard DOTs position is that eLORAN would be a privately owned and operated fee for service system with no government funding. I would not hold my breath.

Yes. There are no rivets in the lower corners because that's where the cracks were. It's not a great design. The hole visible on the flange on the aircraft left side (right side in the photo, and there is also one on the opposite side not visible in the photo) is where a single #8 PK screw attaches to a Tinnerman on the structure and these screws (one on each side) take up all the air load that tends to pull the lower cowling attach point forward causing the cowling to rock up and back at the top. The structure where the Tinnerman is located on the right aircraft side was also cracked (there is very little "meat" there because of a large hole to clear the nose gear pivot point bolt) and we installed a .040 aluminum doubler there with a #8 nutplate replacing the PK/Tinnerman. I may do the same eventually on the left side but it is currently undamaged.

Just fixed mine today.

Check the IPC

I consulted with Frank Crawford at Mooney and here is his recommendation for firewall repairs. The firewall isn’t structural. You will need to stop drill the crack. Create a patch using .016 321 stainless steel material. Install the patch wet using CS3204-B2 sealer to seal the patch. Also rivet the patch using monel Cherry Max rivets.

The M20J has a Lycoming. Belt drive alternator - no coupler.

I have the same problem. I first noticed that the cowling was in alignment with the spinner when first installed but rocked up and back such that it was out of alignment after flight. There is a little "shelf" on the bottom of the firewall where two Camlocs attach the bottom cowling. This attach point takes up all the upward load from the air pressure in the cowling. When I pulled forward on this shelf, it had a lot of play. Cracks had formed behind where it attaches to structure. I'm currently having this fixed. When the cowling rocks up and back the bottom cowling points hit the muffler as you described.

I've always used the one without filler.

I don't recall, but that looks right from the catalog page.

No, it’s really powdered lead in a solvent. The soft lead provides lubrication allowing a the parts to be torqued a bit tighter without galling, and it also seals the gaps in the valleys of the threads, and it’s impervious to gas. But it’s lead, so it’s toxic, so don’t eat it .

Tapered pipe threads need a sealant. Armite LP-250 is the best thread sealant I’ve found, recommended by my A&P/IA, it won’t seize, gall or leak. Most retailers only seem to stock 1 or 5 lb cans. I bought a small tube (maybe a couple of ounces) from McMaster-Carr, but I had to call them as it didn’t show up in their online catalog.