PT20J

If it does turn out to be a bad transducer, there is the question of the legality of installing the Omega device. Mooney did use Omega transducers as replacements in at least one case, although the replacement was for oil pressure and manifold pressure (see attached). Your maintainer may consider this approved data to replace the fuel pressure transducer with an Omega -- I would discuss it with them. That's what I did, but I'm in the US. Clarence @PA24Lvr might be able to weigh in on what is acceptable in Canada. You might also contact Frank Crawford at the factory and see if he has any other documentation that would support the substitution. Mooney Transducer Retrofit Kit_20221010_0001.pdf

A 1993 MSE would have a 28V electrical system and Sigma-Tek gauges. Most likely it is the transducer or the gauge. Never hurts to check the wiring. If it is the gauge, I believe that Sigma-Tek still repairs these. The pressure transducer is a Wheatstone bridge type (you can Google that if you want the details). There are four wires from the transducer to the gauge: Approx 10V excitation, ground, +signal, - signal. Using the Mooney schematic for your serial number, you can check the excitation voltage from the pins on the connector to the transducer under the cowling. Also, with the transducer disconnected, I believe that the gauge should read zero. The transducer is made by Kulite and is not available. However, an Omega PX309-030GV is electrically identical and available. You will need adapters to connect it to the fuel pressure hose and you will need to transfer the connector from the old transducer to the Omega.

The fuses protect the wires from the shunt to the ammeter. They will be located near the shunt. If either fuse is blown, there will be no current through the ammeter in either direction and it should read zero.

I used to be based KSJC. Often there was a line of jets spaced out for 30L that seemed to stretch halfway to LA. I got really good at fitting in and flying fast approaches. I learned how to do it by letting the autopilot fly the ILS and managing gear, flaps and power to control the speed. It’s not that hard to slow a Mooney down if you plan ahead. I’ll bet @donkaye, MCFI has some tricks.

I can never figure out the rod end part numbers. Does anyone have a good cross reference between different manufacturers?

If it get's expensive enough, I'll have to worry about used parts getting converted to ingots.

No, the automotive battery testers are unreliable (I had AAA test my car battery and it died a weak later). To properly test an aircraft battery, you need special equipment to do what's called a capacity test. Basically, the tester puts a specified load on the battery and measures how long it takes to discharge to a specified voltage. Some shops (but not all) have the tester.

It's interesting to compare performance. I don't have a PA28-160 Warrior POH, but according to the POH for the PA28R-200 Arrow -- which has the same wing -- it will glide 1.39 nm/1000 feet AGL. The Warrior, having fixed gear, should be slightly worse. The PA28-181 Archer with the semi-tapered wing will glide, according to the POH, 1.88 nm/1000 feet AGL. Interestingly, the M20J MSE comes out the same.

I assume from your description that after it wouldn't start you put the charger on it and it has been charging since you returned tonight at which time you measured 11.9V. If this is the case, and the 11.9V was measured with no load on the battery, then the problem would be the battery. If the battery has been charging for a day or two it should be fully charged. A fully charged 12V battery would have an open circuit voltage of at least 12.9V. An open circuit voltage of 11.9 is very nearly fully discharged. If your charger is a BatteryMINDER, the LED that has the symbol that looks like a full battery is misleading. It does not indicate that the battery is fully charged, but rather it indicates that the charger is in float mode. It is possible for a weak battery to come up to voltage on a charger and then discharge very quickly when removed from the charger. Probably the 35 amp indication was real as the alternator was trying to charge a very discharged battery. An automotive ammeter usually has an internal shunt. Wait and put the right part in the airplane. You don't want to introduce any additional problems by substituting incorrect parts.

This is why you should always keep survival gear in the airplane.

@Flyler was comparing the Mooney to the Warrior and noted that the Mooney had a lower sink rate than the Warrior. The Warrior uses a NACA 65-415 laminar flow airfoil. So, since both airplanes have laminar flow airfoils, the answer to the difference in sink rates must lie somewhere else. The PA-28 simply has higher drag than the Mooney. The Mooney has a smaller wetted area, which reduces parasite drag, and the Warrior's shorter span, constant chord "Hershey Bar" wing has greater induced drag. The Warrior II, with it's longer semi-tapered wing (same airfoil) has a lower sink rate compared to the Warrior because it's wing produces less induced drag.

That fuse is for later models that have a start power annunciator that lights whenever the starter relay is closed. It's purpose it to alert you should the relay hang up and continue applying power to the starter after you release the key from the start position. Even if you had one, it wouldn't affect operation of the starter. There should be a circuit breaker on the circuit breaker panel (it usually also powers the cigar lighter) that provides power to the start/mag switch to energize the starter relay. There aren't any other fuses.

It sounds like you have two issues: some issue with the electrical system, most likely the battery, and a blown ammeter gauge. Since the tap test caused the ammeter needle to move and it went back to full scale, it appears that the ammeter is toast. Although it is tempting to go directly after whatever is not working, a better troubleshooting technique is to start with verifying the stuff that is supposed to be working is actually working properly. First, I would get a copy of the schematic diagram for your airplane. Then, I would start with the battery. Make sure it is fully charged and the open circuit voltage (battery disconnected) is above 12 V. Then, I would check that all the electrical circuits (lights, radios, etc) are working. If that is all good and the starter still won't run, then I would troubleshoot the starter circuit. The ammeter isn't important for troubleshooting -- it's not in the circuit (except secondarily to measure the voltage across the shunt). After everything is back working I would replace the ammeter. Do that last, because you don't want to blow up another one while you are troubleshooting.

After the flight when the ammeter read 35A, did it go back to zero with the master switch off? Sometimes when an analog meter is driven hard to the stops the needle sticks. Rapping on the case with the handle end of a screwdriver might be enough shock to free it up. With no power, the hairspring in the meter movement should move the needle to the zero center position. What exactly happens when you try to engage the starter? Nothing? Clicking sound? Starter doesn’t turn but lights dim? Something else?

It sounds like there has been a problem for some time because you say that the ammeter usually reads around 10 amps. It should read close to zero if the battery is fully charged because the ammeter is measuring the current flow into or out of the battery, not the load on the alternator. Also, the meter doesn't really measure amps -- it measures millivolts dropped across the shunt when current is flowing through the shunt. Exactly how were you trying to measure current with your meter set to 20 amps? It sounds like the Mooney meter is bad. As for why the starter doesn't work, did you check all the breakers to see if you popped one while troubleshooting? If the high positive current is/was a real indication, the most likely cause would be a bad cell in the battery because this indication would mean that a lot of current is flowing into the battery. This is easily checked by measuring the voltage at the battery with the master switch off. A 12V battery has 6 cells each contributing about 2.1V when fully charged. So, if you only measure about 10V then one cell is shorted.

Here’s what the art looks like.

You could see if you could rent the tool. https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/attachments/Tool%20Rental%20Program.pdf

I received this email today… My name is Kalynn, Ron Blum's wife. Ron passed on 11/22/2022 and I am finally downsizing of Ron's things as well as other items. Please follow Auction Pros of Kansas on Facebook to see pictures of items that will be auctioned off on April 25, 2026. MANY aviation related items; bicycles and gear; lots of tools - hand and big items; lots of beautiful stained glass as well as molds, tools, etc.; misc. household items such as kitchen items/gadgets, handmade oak desk, etc.; way too many other items to list. Best to follow Auction Pros of Kansas as they will post frequently of items for auction. Please share as you see fit. Thank you, Kalynn

The front seats in my 78 J that I purchased when it was only 8 years old were awful. Too soft seat cushions and no lumbar support in the backs. My wife bought a back cushion from an orthopedic supply store that was great. I took the seats to an upholstery shop and had them redo the foam to match the contour of the support and I supplied new Airtex covers. It didn’t cost that much and they were very comfortable.

When I was based in the SF Bay area, I would often fly up to Truckee for a day of no-lift-line, mid-week skiing, usually with another pilot friend. Several times I flew to Mammoth Lakes. 1:15 to KTRK from KSJC. For a few years I kept a car at KTRK during the winter. There was also a rental car place on the field, and Northstar had a free shuttle from the airport. A bit longer to get to KMMH, but great skiing. Over the years I did the trips in my 1978 M20J, and rented C-182 and SR-22.

I loved the 310B I used to rent. Gigantic cabin, great handling, looks fast just sitting on the ramp. But, between the maintenance and the gas, it would break me to own it.

Well, according to lore, the Comanche was copied from the Mooney when Piper couldn't cut a deal to buy the design in order to get a leg up on adding a modern, all-metal retractable to it's lineup. The planforms sure look alike if you overlay them, including the forward swept wing. They both have laminar flow wings, but different airfoils, and the Comanche uses the same airfoil for the entire span while the Mooney changes airfoil from root to tip. Of course, John Thorpe couldn't resist putting his stabilator on the Comanche tail. I never met an owner of either that didn't like their airplane. I'd say it's a tossup. Good to have you back, Clarence.

Some old RNAV navigators (before loran and GPS) had VOR and DME receivers and Area Navigation (RNAV) capabilities by computing waypoints using VOR/DME radial/distance measurements. The KNS 80 for instance could be a conventional VOR/DME or store up to 4 RNAV waypoints. It was important to know which mode the unit was in (VOR/DME or RNAV) and it had an output to drive an external indicator which Mooney put in the annunciator panel. Just ignore it.

The first step in troubleshooting is to understand how it works. Landing Gear Logic Detail.pdf

I should get some for my hangar lube cart. I can put it next to the little jar of Vaseline I use to lube the fuel cap o-rings, and the silicone plumber's grease I use on the door seals. It will be worth it just for the comments