tmo

Yes, but they went G500 and so on, now there are less expensive but still quite capable options available. Perhaps wouldn't save $75k, but probably a good amount. A bit could be made selling what's left over, but that would likely be chunk change in the grand scheme of things.

The relay part is a really smart idea - you use a small current through the switch to energize a relay that allows the bigger current to flow through it. Not sure about the legalities, but a simple yet effective solution.

@steingar - don't forget the comforter (now I'm thinking of that kid from Peanuts...)

Would it not have drained while still warm from the previous flight? Genuinely curious, not doubting. My first thought was same as @Jim F's , "thermal expansion", but that would be around 0.00039 per degree F. Assuming 8 qts, to get another 0.25qt it would be what, 1/32 of the total volume, so just over 3%, so heated up by 80F?

If you are serious about buying a plane, you did the math and realistically expect to be able to afford it, buy it and then train in it. Don't "waste" (for lack of better word, English is not my native tongue) time flying other planes, because getting proficient in your own one will give you enough reason to fly. LTPP (low time private pilot) thoughts only, no certified acronyms to the name 8-) Said the guy that took 3 years to actually buy a plane... ;-)

That's why I can't seem to get any work done! ;-p

Thanks all. Did the first stage yesterday, after flying the plane for some 30 minutes - great post-frontal weather over the weekend. Have to do v 1.1 today, with a better matching plug for the dipstick tube (the current one required some electrical tape to seal well) and will see about v 2.0 in the future, when I can get a good look at the breather tube. And I need to rig up a nice "carry case" like @Brian E. did!

Makes sense, thank you. Just to confirm, can it be left in place, or does it need to be removed before flight?

See towards the end of the post - he's removing the KNS80, that thing is huge, plus com, plus ADF.

Actually, second priority is cabin internals, aka avionics - the RH is such that I literally have water dripping off metal parts in there. Hope to normalize using a couple bags of silica gel for now and to set up a low power heater soon. But that's a thread drift, I think I have that figured out. The engine, not so much. Regarding all the internals you mention, what would be the best way to get the dry air in all those places? Keep in mind I'm looking for a short-to-medium term solution, weeks, not months, I don't want to do the whole "permanent storage" SL. I'm afraid that if I started pulling plugs and such, I'd do more damage than good.

Not sure if it helps, but there is a EU based one on Planecheck: Cessna T-206 Turbo Stationair H cam

@Brian E. - do you recall the size of the dipstick tube (or wherever you chose to push the dry air in)? Secondly, what did you chose to do about the "whistle" in the breather tube? Lastly, did you put any kind of filter in-line with the dry air? For my first iteration tomorrow I'll do an open loop, just push the dry air in, it will be better than nothing; the second iteration will do closed loop (connect the breather to the silica). I knew I was keeping the old aquarium pumps around for a good reason!

OK, I am ignorant, so I don't get this. The tape you mention is basically duct tape, right? Can you please explain the thumbprint / does not obstruct part?

Good catch on the whistle vent, as also mentioned in the other "dehumidifier" threads. Thank you. On a "closed" system where I pull the air from the breather and push through the dipstick, would covering the vent be good, or should I leave it open as a "failsafe" of sorts? On an open system, fed via the dipstick, the vent is a non-issue, so that's going to be v.1.0 I think. Closed will be v.2.0 and automatic start/stop/dry will be v.3.11 ;-)

I think they are called "fully articulating" seats and yes, would be nice to know which models can be donors for our K's. For the time being, child booster seats should do the job, and on the cheap, too. Me, I just tell people it's all part of the Mooney experience and that they can come along or not, their choice.

@N201MKTurbo ok, that makes sense, I think. Just to make sure - blowing dry air into the dipstick hole will get it to all the places that need to be protected; in a overhead camshaft engine (automotive, that's what I've worked on) I'd need to worry about the top side as well, but this is not the case here, right?

The kitty litter I will use is 100% silca gel :-) just cheaper.

It is a Continental IO-360, NA. The newer ones have a Lycoming IO-390. The -22 is Continental [TS]IO-550.

So, today is the first day in over two weeks when weather resembles something flyable, and it will get worse before it gets better. The plane is dripping wet, inside and out, just like in @jetdriven's 2015 posts. This means that I need to rig up an aquarium pump with kitty litter (aka dehumidifier) and force the dried air through the engine (and throw a couple bags of said product into the cabin). Question is, where is the most proper place to connect the positive pressure dry air in an open (no recirculation) setup and what is the best way to set up a closed (recirculating) setup? I'm thinking that in an open system I should push air through the dipstick to pressurize the crankcase; the dry air will flow into the camshaft area through the open intake valves and escape through the breather line. Catch is, it will also escape through the open exhaust valves, so I'm wondering if I should somehow restrict the outflow through the tailpipe and/or the breather, to make sure the path of least resistance is not through there? Or perhaps I should pressurize not just the dipstick, but also the exhaust and breather and have the slightly pressurized air escape through the intake system? But then I can just leave the dipstick in, pressurize exhaust and breather, escape via intake, right? But that becomes more complicated, and simple is good. So perhaps block tailpipe, pressurize breather? If going closed loop, push air through dipstick, pull through tailpipe, plug breather, treat intake as a safety vent, slightly restricted by the air filter? A pre/heater for the engine is a future project, not right now.

Not @philiplane but I believe the IM calls out either the Davtron C307PS for $90 or the Garmin GTP 59 for $500.

Too bad Garmin is going to end up gouging you just the same, given half a chance (once enough market dominance is established). How much did it cost to get G1000 upgraded to WAAS again? That's why I really root for Avidyne, Trig, Aspen and hope for the likes of Dynon to get serious in order to keep the game interesting. But yeah, King is interesting mostly as a case study. Then again, things do change. Remember Nokia, once the only name that counted in cellphones, that all but dissapeared but are sort-of attemtping a comeback?

The voltage drop can very well be real, and be due to resistance somewhere along the path from the battery (where you measure 14V) to the volt meter (try measuring there with the same multimeter you used at the battery). Possibly check both grounds (battery and wherever the volt meter is grounded) and if that doesn't help, trace the path the electrons take from battery to meter.

Eh, we need some deals on the 450B, so tempting they are ;-)

Isn't that why we lean to the point where "pushing it in" will result in the engine stopping right there and then? IOW, if you lean, lean it as far as it will go, at 1000rpm you're not making any power to speak of anyway. I lean on the ground, even without an engine monitor. I've at times had the engine stop before it made enough power to get me rolling through the grass.

Jeppesen will happily sell you the charts, also for approaches that use ADF With each country in Europe having a different variation of IFR charts one can be persuated to pay Jeppesen to normalize them all into a common format. The US has it good with the free and consistent navdata and all.