tmo

Two companies, actually, right? BK and Sandia.

I know I'll sound stupid, but #8 means 8/32" - right? Edit: ok, it is "gauge" which ends up being 2*diameter in mm, so #8 is ~4mm which is the one I want. So if the screws are ~4mm I can order #8 (edited) cadmium plated aluminium rivnuts and patiently wait for delivery. Or is some other combination preferred?

Shouldn't we be raising flaps as soon as we reasonably can after touchdown anyway? More grip on wheels and whatnot.

Mine has been known to be loaded pretty close to the limit (as in, I've left air in the tanks on purpose to make the W&B work). No performance issues, even on ISA++ days.

Downhill gradient. See the discussion of multiple SR20 overruns in Czechia some months ago. Also insurmountable obstructions at upwind end, granted those aren't a common thing.

100%, but doing the right grease is the same amount of work as "any grease" so might as well at least try to do it right and since I now have a shiny new-to-me unopened can of AeroShell Grease 7, that's what will happen. Already cleaned out, as each block seems to have been lubed with a different type of grease and at a significantly different time, judging from the condition and color of said grease. Then again, ASG 22 and Mobil 28 are the same grease, and different colors, so what do I know, might have been those two.

@Cody Stallings thank you for that, sincerely. To put things into context, they do this for places I'd be putting in a light machine oil or spray some local version of TRI-FLOW, so no high speed / high temp applications. Would you care to share your list of preferred lubricants to compliment EricJ's list of lubrication requirements from the SMM? I know "AeroShell" and perhaps "Mobil" are going down the path of least resistance, but if there are better options that work, I'm sure more people than just me would be very interested. Especially coming from people who know their stuff.

Definitely not how it works in my 1980 M20K - the little glass fuse blows regularly, so no cabin lights and time on clock not synced, but master / avionics master work fine.

Won't Foreflight and similar apps do that as part of their performance calcs? FF is pretty useless in Europe, so I don't use it, but I imagine it would do performance as well.

I didn't know I'm not supposed to do T'n'G's so I did them when I did my initial 10h with a FI. Lots of fast trimming down / pushing on the yoke involved. For me, key was to add power in a controlled way, not go to 40" ASAP, and to have the FI do the flaps from full to take-off while still on the ground. Too few hands. Now I prepare for a fullstop, and if everything works out perfectly, as in, I nail the approach, flare and touchdown by midfield, I just call it a "go around". I agree with @Ibra it is much easier on a longer runway - I can usually do a safe T'n'G on the 3600 ft of grass, but when we shorten it to 2600 ft it was a challenge at times. I also find it easier to do a T'n'G when alone, for whatever reason. Pretty sure it's not the 200 extra lbs in the right seat.

A Diamond DA20 would perhaps be more fitting ;-p

So, humor me this - some maintenance guys I know make a liquid out of 100LL and AeroShell Grease 22 (they love this stuff) and use this for where they can't easily stuff the AS22 in. They say the liquid flows where it needs to, the avgas evaporates, the AS22 stays and lubricates. Acceptable, despicable? Would using JetA1 / naphta as the carrier be better / worse?

Ah. I have the Alabeo M20R and I find it reasonably similar to my K. But maybe it's just me being ham-fisted and all. I wish the AFM one worked under Linux...

That is a great song...

The checklist for my 900 lists EGT as P/N M-111; CHT is bayonet P/N 5050; the gasket type would be P/N M-113. I have the physical probes in a box if you want me to look at something specific.

Will Garmin allow you to sell it (well, the buyer to legally install), or just leave with the dealer when you upgrade?

Which Mooney add-on? There are several.

One thing to note is that Camguard is NOT LW-16702. LW-16702 is really only required very few Lycoming engines. See Lycoming SB 446E for reference. It probably won't hurt a Lycoming 540. On my TSIO-360-LB1 I use Camguard and Phillips 66 XC 20W50, not the Victory. I seem to recall LW-16702 is said to cause slipping of some starter clutches on Continental engines; obviously not applicable here, but I would think twice before using Victory in any Continental. Some of the AeroShell multiweight oils also have LW-16702 mixed in.

That's what the 2x4 wedged behind the pilot seat of my Mooney is for ;-)

You and your fancy math stuff ;-)

This seems to be the case here as well. To add insult to injury, there are of random size and possibly pedigree. Will make a good attempt at speednuts all around and, if that fails, will install the smallest rivnuts for the two lower screws. Thanks Mooneyspace!

I don't question the statement, but can you say why "last resort"? Inquiring minds and all that.

Yes, this sounds about right, also see the picture from @OR75 above and my reply. Definitely no spacers / washers there; will look for the thread about them, haven't been able to keep up lately, too much interesting stuff in the hangar. The tinnerman nuts are definitely not there, and I don't see how they could escape from the bottom two holes - it looks next to impossible to me, but maybe I'm looking at it wrong, or just don't have the plane smarts yet. But the Part66 fellow that is helping me make sense of all this locally doesn't see it either, and he is the one that suggested rivet nuts. I really should figure out a way to post pictures from a phone...

Yes, the picture from @OR75 is exactly it - the rectangular-ish cover that starts below the stabilizer and goes down to the tie-down. The top 5 screws are trivial, but I don't see how I can access the bottom 2 on each side - you can see the second-to-last one in the picture, the last one is either missing or not visible from this angle, it is right by the tail tie-down. They are under a bracket / shelf (perhaps item 40 from section 53-10-03 of the IPC - stiffener plate / charlie weight shelf). Maybe I need to take a look with a mirror or a borescope, but if rivet nuts are acceptable, I'm tempted to go for them - they seem like an easy and permanent solution. I can do the tinnerman speed nuts for the top 5 if the collective says it is better for whatever reason, or go with rivnuts all around and call it done. Thanks for any and all suggestions!