tmo

And just to extend the list above, the bearings in the rudder, elevator and ailerons all get lubed with light machine oil, as per @PT20J's post in Let's talk lubrication thread.

Some of the screws that hold the covers (edit: found them in the IPC - section 53-50-00 item 7 - fairings, pn 470002-009 and -010) between the empennage and stinger assembly skin (pn 420001-013) that cover the trim jackscrew don't hold as well as I think they should. Edit: I guess I used the wrong words, they are empennage fairings, and have nothing to do with the stinger assembly as such. What is the proper way to fix that? Would installing a rivet nut in the empennage skin be acceptable? Using a larger screw just means the problem will return later. Edit: the IPC lists 14 AN530-4R5 screws and 14 A18914Z1 speed nuts. This is definitely not what I have - there is no trace of said speed nuts, and the screws are not all the same. Even if I wanted to use the speed nuts, I don't see how I can install them in the lower two screws (per side, 4 total); the upper five (per side, 10 total) are trivial.

The business analogy I like.

Don't the Avidyne IFD440 units have wireless as well? They are said to be a plug-in replacement for the GNS430W units.

Guess I'll have to order some AeroShell Grease 7, thank you.

Mooneyspace said I can look under inspection panels, so I looked inside the wing of my Mooney, just because I'm a curious guy. Good thing I'm not a cat, I guess. I now need to know what kind of grease is on the long aileron control rod where it passes through little plastic (that kind of looks like bakelite) things that are riveted to the wing ribs. Are those "aileron control tube guide blocks" to be lubed with "alpha" (Graphite & MIL-G-3278 (AeroShell Grease 7?) or MIL-G-23827 (AeroShell Grease 33?) and if so, is the graphite required for both of the greases, or just MIL-G-3278? For this particular application, would AeroShell Grease 22 or Mobil Grease 28 be an acceptable substitute? It is clear that there are different greases on different plastic pieces - some is red like Mobil 28, some looks like dried out AeroShell 22. Are there any generic substitution rules for grease?

Ultralights and PPL trainers (Tecnam P2008JC). Bigger schools have Rotax powered twins for MEP training.

It also drinks the same fuel that your car does, ethanol and all. Running on car gas reduces the maintenance intervals to 100h. The liquid cooled heads reduce the possibility of heat related damage, at the cost of a little additional complexity. Generally they are replacement items at the 2400h TBO. At the club we really like them.

Why isn't this a candidate for an OPP?

The exact wording of the email was: > I checked stock with Mooney and they have both parts in stock. I can get them ordered ... I take it to mean Mooney has the part in stock AND there is someone at Mooney who can ship it to LASAR.

For future reference, the August 2020 price for the 710070-501 eyeball assembly is $135 and they are available from Mooney via LASAR. Dan from LASAR also suggested I try to polish the yoke shaft with the finest steel wool and WD40 (another acceptable aviation application - ha!) and see if that helps. Like Guillaume, I just ordered the parts - if the WD40 helps for the time being, I'll have spares in stock. Edited to report that the WD40 and the 0000 steel wool therapy for the yoke shaft did wonders - no more binding.

He did mention Europe, hence my attempt to highlight the major differences related to the subject. In the specific case of DME: Ditch? No. Replace / repair? Yes. Install? Maybe, but no. ADF: good riddance. WAAS: must have.

Would the liquid TRI-FLOW (squeeze bottle) be any better than the spray? Guess not, or not much, since it still has to have the teflon dissolved.

Makes me wonder if some milspec connector wouldn't be the way to go, instead of cutting and splicing. Then again I guess one takes it all apart this much once every 20 or so years, so maybe it would be a solution looking for an actual problem. Makes me want to have an intercom install done at the same time...

@Andy95W - just to make sure, you're referring to the "new style" 710070-501 ones, right? Might be something for me to try...

@Guillaume - I might end up having to do the same; a couple of questions: - where did you buy from, how long did you wait? I'm also in the EU, although N-reg. - what is the biggest PIA in the replacement? a casual look under the panel makes me think it will be the wiring of the yokes - how does one even disconnect it all? Take the yoke apart, label and remove every wire at switch end? - I take it that cleaning them out really well from all the dirt and misplaced lubrication didn't help and they just need to be replaced? Thanks in advance for any comments, hints or suggestions!

I would not ditch a DME, at least if one wants to fly IFR in Europe - we don't have a GNSS approach to every runway, and we still can't legally substitute yet; I probably would not install one, I don't think anyone ever got busted for substitution and there are loads of planes flying IFR without them; the ADF I would ditch, if I needed the space; the markers I have no opinion on, but they don't take up any space nor weight, so no point in ditching them. Having a WAAS (well, SBAS is the more technically correct term, since we have EGNOS here, WAAS is in the US) navigator is a definite must.

Dude, you just described every meeting of our local aero club, ever. Just add how you should have bought such-and-such plane 5 years ago when it was "so inexpensive", the fact that there was no money and nobody would finance it notwithstanding. End of thread drift.

Pro tip - buy one that already has the stuff you want.

FWIW, some MSers use static tint om their windows. Someone also mentioned this. Might be worth a shot.

Me, I'd expect a monogrammed suitcase as part of the welcome onboard kit...

Or you get to move to EASA reg, where using the UL fuels is, I believe, blanket-approved for all airframes that have engines that are legal to run on them ;-) For our EASA reg friends, see here

Not necessarily if they are connected to the same audio panel that is having issues. But, of course, to each one's own.

Have you checked the battery's capacity? If not, hook up external power, try cranking it then, see if it is still sluggish. If not, replace battery and try again.

Since you asked I think I like 2-5 the best, with 2A-1 in second place. All that said, I don't know much about art, I just know what I like...