larrynimmo

Mine came with roller tappets

I have owned my plane for almost 4 years now ...and 600+ hours. In training I did a lot of touch and go’s and never had an issue as the procedures are very specific and gear goes down opposite the numbers downwind. The only time I had an issue was flying at night...extending way out from the pattern and then preparing to land....pulled back the throttle and “beep...beep...beep...beep”...it only took me about a second to recognize I made a major omission...put the gear down and avoided becoming a statistic...I regularly verify the beep so that I know that it works...soon I will be adding the ground distance radar with call-outs as an extra measure of safety.

I guess I did get the term mixed up...but I did pay $150 for the aeroled dual purpose lamp....and it is really good balance of functions

It’s everywhere on eBay ... if you want the brightness pencil vision go for the whelen.... if you want to compromise your distance and have a lamp that will double as a taxi...the Aero LED is the way to go.

My thoughts exactly!

Mark and drill holes independently from both sides....and not oversized as you need a “pin” fit

Please tell us about your servo issues...and resolution

I ordered mine...I am looking forward to that extra layer of gear up reminder and would like the landing countdown. since I have an AI that I work closely with, I expect to install right away after receiving it, and I will give a full report on it.

We had gone a really long time without a gear up....

And if you don’t own a double sided printer...bows a good time to buy one...they are not expensive

On my 1981 J back by the battery is one of those black plastic fuse holder with a 5 amp fuse inside. when the attached wire leaves the battery compartment it goes forward to the clock...and from the clock it goes to the overhead lights

When homemade jacks are made well, they are as good as any professionally manufactured jack...especially when you use the locking rings

So true skip

It’s easy to remove....but it takes quite an effort to reinstall ...getting the screw holes to line up and screw in place

It is a “bear” to reinstall that switch...

Next follow-up... I had sent my servo to AVstar in Jupiter Florida....the mechanic called me and stated to me that it had to be rebuilt at the tune of $1,300 including shipping. He told me that there was evidence that fuel pressure had exceeded 100 PSI. He also said there is no feature of a pressure relief device on the fuel servo. to me, what is happening is that cold fuel is drawn from the tanks, and when the engine is stopped by pulling out the mixture a “column of pure liquid” fuel is there. The sensible heat of the shut down engine will likely heat this liquid at least 50 degrees F. That should cause of volumetric increase of about 3%...since you can’t compress a liquid it creates a hydraulic pressure increase...where would this excessive pressure be bled to? Should the mechanical fuel pump have a pressure release bleeding the pressure back to the tanks? The electric pump is centrifugal, so it will bleed backwards, but the mechanical fuel pump has check valves in and out...as most diaphram pumps have... Today I received the Servo back, with my AI we reinstalled the beast....and so far it works perfect. I ran the plane for one loop around my home field and when I shut down pressure was at 25 psi...within 5 minutes it climbed to 30 psi before I bled it down into the injectors

I have also stopped very minor leaks by coating the area with EZLube. For example I will spread it around the edge of the fuel sample valve...it will turn blue, but generally doesn’t drip or spread. When I am under the plane I can occasionally get a whiff

From what I recall, loosening these two nuts you can slide assembly forward of aft. also, it is imperative that throttle cable travel enough rearward to allow for the detent in the cable. This may require adjusting throttle linkage up to the servo.

When I called AVstar direct, they had no rebuilt servos available....and they said if I want a new one, it is an 8 week wait. their suggestion was to send it back and they would repair it (much less expensive) should be complete next week.

When I sent it back I looked at it, and the spring was hidden in the back

Regardless of what you look at...you need to survey for corrosion..that can sour any deal

I am different....I have one of those spin around mechanics stool purchased from Harbor Freight. And wow...it’s so easy. It completely supports the lower cowl for removal or reinstall. The seat height has a spring loaded hydraulic adjusted height. This is so easy...never need a helping hand another thing I do when it comes to installing the upper cowl is that I completely attach the upper cowl to the lower cowl before I tighten the cam locks below the windshield. As I do those, I grab the cowl opening and pull up decreasing any gaps as I tightened upper cams. The idea here is keeping the two pieces aligned together while mating rather than loading tension that might keep some fasteners from perfectly aligning. to make my plane cleaner I replaced all of my anti-chafe plastic with thin fiberglass reinforced anti-chafe...wish I had done it sooner

Yes older servos did have that spring...purpose of that spring was to keep the mixture from coming out of adjustment

6 engine hours ago I installed a new K&N pleated filter...don’t see that as an issue... clean with no loose items