larrynimmo

No, let’s not “keep it up” ...instead make sure we “drop the gear”!

Panels were yellowed, cracked and just gave plane dingy look...and oh yes replacing the cira 1970’s brown shag carpet just had to be done!

It has to do with fit...it would have helped to use heat guns to reform the plastic pieces to fit better. On the window sides, I had at least 1/2” gap between plastic panel and the aluminum screw bases...so when I had the gap I used longer screws and the trim washers...many are not pulled down, but merely holding it suspenedly secured.

On my 81 j there were three strobe electronic boxes

Took me 1 day for the year out 2 days to sand and paint the framing 5 long days to install the plastic panels, carpet panel and carpet floor. the carpet, and carpet panels and everything I got from Airtex was of superior quality and fit exactly with very little cutting. the plastic panels were a fight the whole way. For now I’m not putting in the arm rests or accent trim strips. Best part of the finished product is that I’m loving my Rosen visors...they are so helpful. I found doing the wind lace to actually be very easy and quick as long as you are changing when you have the interior out. this job is far from perfect, but it is done, side panels and carpet can be removed easily for annuals...and above all it is done. While my AI said he would “stop in daily “ to check my progress and assist...I only saw him once. I will add some almond caulk soon to fill in a couple of spots. I actually still like my original 1981 seats, so for now I have kept them. cost for plastics and shipping $2,400...carpet & carpet walls and new insulation, phenomenal wind lace $1,300. Rosen visors $450...free labor...yeah right!

My home base is Easton md...thank goodness it wasn’t me

Skip, when I originally installed the led nav lights on my J, my “gear safe” light became dim all the time. The grounding backfeed through the un-powered LEds was not sufficient to give the daytime brightness required. as someone on Mooneyspace recommended, I installed a grounding relay...now it work perfect like original function

Always check your own caps regardless of who puts them on....and regularly replace “both” o rings for each cap.(at least every other year)

I was able to cut the black plastic with a Dremil tool and epoxied them to the new panels....very easy...total success as for painting the pipes There is no doubt that epoxy would be better...my AI told me he wants them painted with zinc chromate. They weren’t too bad to begin with, and I expect the coating will last 15 years....and I do have an AI that works with me very well

My long awaiting interior remodel project started today by yanking out all the carpet and plastic panels...after I complete my coating of all steel frame with zinc chromate, I will need to start the reassembly....can anybody tell me if I can reuse my eyeballs, and if so what I need to do.... please help!

Diamonds chance to do what mooney has failed to do....produce the equivalent to an M20J

My J model lists only 2.5 gallons as unusable...I thought the K has the same wing 1981 M20J

Flying into Danbury can be scary as there are mountains and you land in a narrow valley depending on which runway you face....my lleft base entry was at about 1,000 fpm decent because of my discomfort of transversing mountains.

One thing not mentioned...you need to removed the pilots side plastic side panel and inspect the steel frame for corrosion...if it is excessive, plane will be unairworthy soon

For decals on the paint of the plane, just go to a lettering shop and they will make them for you for very little

Update...I wrote mike Busch ...but didn’t mention the one in flight blip..but I did focus on “morning sickness” because of his recent article...I do know that many of you recommended I do a borescope inspection, and I will do so soon...I just wanted to pass on what Mike said...

Update....After i posted, I ran the plane aggressively with 380 degree cylinders, rich of peak for three successive flights. From the first flight on, I haven’t had any issues including at start up and warm up today, I pulled all my plugs and installed tempest fine wire plugs (pre gapped) old plugs...top and bottom #2 cylinder...had balls of lead (or what ever) Much more than the other plugs i am going to try to fly LOP only when I can keep the heads in the sweet spot...and try this...I have issues going forward I’ll get my A&p do the rope trick...

My hanger sports 20v dewalt power tools...I just added a dewalt 20v grease fun new from eBay for $147....withe the new licking tip and battery powered grease gun I can’t wait to lubricate my gear again!

Thanks for the link...I ordered one!

Skip, I do value your opinion. I've been running my M20J really cool. In the winter, my cylinder temperatures were as low as 300 degrees...#2 has always been my coolest head. I am always reading about aircraft engines and looking for the optimum operational balance encompassing longevity, economy, serviceability....I read the Mike Busch article...why wasn't it out years ago? It has been my belief, the cooler the heads the better....Ive been cruising for the last year LOP 25MP, 22RPM 7GPH and yielding about 20 statue miles per gallon...when its cold out, there are some really cool cylinders....but now my operational values are at fault, because I need to cruise at over 350 cylinder temps

once you discovered the sticking valve, what did you do to resolve it...did you do with string push of the valve and ream the valve guide (as others have spoken about)

I removed the assembly when I changed my engine and said to myself this would be almost impossible to do with out removing the engine....others would have to verify this, but I think if you unbolt the two upper nuts (in the cabin) that go to the engine frame, you can actually downwardly tilt the whole engine forward. to do this, you have a lot of stuff to disconnect like the exhaust and hoses, likely fuel line, starter cable, etc

Lycomming factory rebuilt and installed September 2018....including new fuel divider and servo. In April 2019, the servo butterfly got so stiff to operate from fully closed, we had to send it back under warranty...and plane has flown well since then until now. Ground level was 150’ as for spark plugs..Back in the early 70’s....when I ran leaded gas in my 1969 corvette I couldn’t get more than 6,000 miles on a set of plugs due to lead fouling...would only affect high power, high rpm operation and power would break down at about 4,000 rpm. Once I switched to no lead amoco, my problems disappeared

Since I do have about 300 hours on the engine, I am going to replace the spark plugs with tempest fine wire plugs...and see where I am at. It won’t hurt to try before I assume that it’s the exhaust valve sticking... I can understand the valve sticking as for cold starting, but I wouldn’t think it would stick under load on a warm engine...I will try and will report back

Mine is adjusted so if you are all the way back, and the gear is up, the beeper will kick in regardless of tension