larrynimmo

I may not have a TBM, but I am enjoying use of your Sidewinder to put my plane away!

Just look at the data and you will see a tremendous difference. Go with 2740#...the difference between 15 degree and full flaps is only 1knot in indicated airspeed...BUT in calculated air speed ther is 4knot difference which translates to about 5 mph...now that is a real difference. from an unscientific observation, I find when I touchdown with full flaps that the energy needed to fly diminishes very quickly that being said, I don’t use full flaps for strong crosswinds, during turbulence and when practicing touch and goes

Many times I’ve taken 3 adults and a child...today I plan on flying 4 adults...only have 30 gallons onboard...I am 2722 of 2740 for a 5 gallon trip each way...when I did my foreflight loading I am at max weight and at the back of the envelope (but still inside). Flight technique advice would be appreciated

I fly a J. I do practice approaches all the time at 90k with half flaps....on LPV and such low da, plane is so hot that I need to “slam the brakes on” to touchdown at the 1,000’ marker. I need full flaps and retard throttle, trim to 70k or I’m going to end up halfway down the runway. in normal operation full flaps is something I only use when I feel I have the runway made...it is especially helpful when there is no wind, or when you land with a slight tail wind. It will shorten your roll quote a bit

When I shopped, I found a diamond in the rough....1981 M20J always hankered for 65k...with 1541 hours original engine. Engine was on borrowed time from the beginning...I flew for 150 hours and changed it with a factory rebuilt Lycomming 38k, engine 830 monitor 3k, new hoses and mounts 1.5k new prop governor 2k, rebuild prop 2.5k, labor 4K, preventative maintenance on gear box ...including no hold back spring 2k, new garmin 650 13k...new ngt9000 8k, new aspen max 13k, garmin G5 3.2k, new starter .5k, new click .3k, new interior plastic parts and carpet walls and floor and repaint all cabin steel frame 4K..sunspot landing/taxi .2k new Led /nav & strobe 2k. New windshield 2k...Rosen visors .5k...tempest fine wire plugs .8k my point is that I may have paid 65k for a nice low hour plane, but I spent close to 100k making it the kind of plane I wanted. And yet, I still have original seats, original paint (although it looks good) I haven’t resealed the tanks, still need to repaint Steel pushrods every annual ( progressive maintenance) and of course regular wear items like tires, brakes, oil changes, yearly annual expenses. the good news is that I darn near have a new plane with a tremendous IFR platform. I’m debating purchasing the amaafe seatbelts

My career is as a refrigeration mechanic....when we want to move something heavy, we use a simple 6 - 7’ lever that has wheels at the ground and about 8” tongue sticking out...and it is called a “Johnson bar”

What I do like about touch and gos is that it allows you to practice the phases of flight very efficiently. Once you touch down, you are close to rotation speed and it propels you very effectively off the runway. one piece of advice I give is to use half flaps for both takeoff and landing. Full flaps isn’t really needed unless you intend to slow down (full stop). If you want to add a significant margin of safety, don’t do it under 4,000 ft runway. (Sea level)

I was wrong...I studied the wiring diagram...the 5 amp glass fuse protects the clock, cabin overhead lights, and fuel management device...has nothing to do with master power switch.

With my M20J you can feel the governor adjust the pitch during takeoff roll...I typically open the throttle slowly in my roll and Rpms go up to about 2680 then settle at 2650 on every take off...and it sounds just like I had adjusted the rpm via the blue knob.

What if the “FAA controllers” were contract controllers and not government employees?

In my j by the battery there is a little glass fuse....this fuse feeds the wire that gives clock and cabin lights unrestricted power and also gives master switch the power to turn on the master power solonoid. If that fuse should blow...nothing will turn on. only access to this fuse is to remove the battery access panel in the tail

After seeing what you have gone through, I plan to grease my steering horn every 50 hours, and to do 100%...and not just grease it, but to fully flush out old grease from all directions... it’s so easy for me to do...I appreciate you making us aware of this failure

They are black plastic from vantage plane plastics...seem very durable

You can buy the plastic pieces brand new for about $100 each from vantage plane plastics...I did t even fool with the small thin strips

From my perspective roller tappers are much less likely to fail...but when they do fail, it can cause catastrophic consequences. It add tremendous potential to get over 3,000 hours on the lower part of a Lycomming engine. solid tappets die a slow death as they wear out and take the cam with them....engine performance diminishes but almost never takes a plane out of the sky...once the wear starts, engine must be pulled, split and replace cam and lifters even if nothing else is wrong. wear is promoted with corrosion which is not a friend of the infrequent aviator.

Top gun changed the spring on my Eaton box...and worked out well. my AI was terribly upset with me though because while too gun supplied a sticker of repair, the reality is that they are not an FAA service station. in other words, I could bring my plane to top gun and they could repair to gear box under their AI...but it is technically not legal to send them the gear box and then have it reinstalled by your local AI.

The stall switch is line $2,200 because it is calibrated...

For a mooneyspace member IMG_3783.mov

Airplanes and space travel is always news worthy. Less than 0.25% of the population is involved in either adventure...since it involves science and the lore that dreams are made of make this newsworthy for most people.

A belly landing has to be one of the choices in your tool bag....if you are making an emergency landing, it is a way to quickly and relatively safely to dissipate energy. If landing in water...gear up. When landing in a field with crops...gear up...short field unimproved surfaces gear up. Owners of fixed gear planes don’t have the option of gear up landings. landing gear down saves the plane and pilot from damage where it can touch down and stop without impact...any impact at speed will greatly increase the chance of a fatal accident. regardless of you choice in an emergency situation, the most important thing is to fly the plane to the ground...so many emergencies end with spin/spirals where the plane becomes a projectile rather than an airplane/glider.

I cut the glue line out with a dremill tool with a thin diamond cutoff wheel...glued in with epoxy on the new ceiling....spray balls liberally with wd40 or silicone so if some epoxy gets on the ball it doesn’t stick. this was among the very easiest part of changing out the headliners

I bought basically the same thing from Airtex...it worked out really well...it has a strong adhesive on one side and an embedded foil coating on the outside...very easy to cut and soundproof the plane. I highly recommend the carpet, and carpet walls, and wind lace as well from Airtex. plastic panels from plane plastics=lots or work....trim, trim trim...in and out of the plane

I flew the E5 for a whole year, about 230 hours...one time out of no where while flying vfr...it just restarted for no reason...when it came back up, it worked fine. since feb 1st, I’ve had the upgraded max and it has been near flawless....about one in 10 power ups, it comes back and says “check attitude” and I need to do a hard reset and that works. No issues while flying

I bought a sidewinder in new condition from a fellow ...or now an ex- mooneyspace member (TBM). It works great and is extremely powerful...just curious if anyone is finding any shortening of life on the nose tire?