Shiny moose

80. Obo shipped

If you need this 50 obo shipped

300 obo shipped

Anyone need some brittian things, rudder(2 sets), elevator, aileron(2 sets) servos, alt hold, accutrak, TC, and other small items. You got to take all, not seperating. Make me an offer that I cannot refuse, or a good trade like a Bose A20 headset, More pictures to come

75 m20f Check pm

I might have one

Alan, Check PM

Ya a few of the older kids had spiked tires on their bikes when i was younger(not sure why track racing with spiked wheels on motorcycles wasnt a long lived sport) , my Father would take me to the ice races, lots of crashes into the snow banks.

They used to have ice stock car racing, I thought it was in Alton Bay, used to go there as a kid in the 70s

I agree that any mechanic will find many items that have been missed by prior mechanics, or maybe not recorded, or not determined to be an issue at the previous inspection. A list of items during a PPI should be expected, and can be as detailed as the buyer would like.

Now if it works! Seals the door properly. I have the K2U door seal and Im not impressed. I know this subject comes up often but nobody ever has the solution for a good, rain out, and quiet door seal. Brown aircraft list the T-11001 as a beech mooney door seal.

Look for the bottom outboard inspection panel with a extra screws in the panel center!!

Takair has a wonderful electric mod for the step, I would keep the step just for the cool factor

Now if we could just do a pirep through foreflight/adsb, by including a few extra items and a remarks section, I think it would be a great help for low level GA

My .02 Do not be in a hurry Buy the model that fits your mission. Nothing wrong with a 60's Mooney or any other make, its about how its been maintained, locations its lived. Buy the best one you can afford, with some of your desired avionics Not only an escrow but have the title search for history. Find a very quaified trustworthy Mechanic for the PPI. Not the same one thats been maintaining that particular aircraft Have a great PPI done, How about just get an annual done, with(if you can) all airworthy items paid for by seller( airworthy can be subjective, so have discussions on this issue before any PPI is started). a list of non airworthy items for your review and approval for purchase, so you can take care of these known issues throughout the next year using your local mechanic. Talk with your insurance company, they could require more dual and solo hours than you think. This will add to your initial budget as you will want this done rather quickly. Find a real mooney instructor. You might spend thousands of dollars upfront, but save yourself 10s of thousands by not buying someone elses problems

Ok Ill bite. ATP, A&P IA, CFII. The IA (1997) was by far the toughest FAA test I have ever taken

My heater keeps my oil at 75. I use a oil temp target of 125 or above before my take off roll. Slow taxi, dont get in a hurry in the winter.

Well the DA is correct, dewpoint! Thats another issue

The one lasar is listing on the web is the piper part number, at about 13 each it would be around 60 for all 4.

Thanks

What PN are people using Mooney PN 610202-003 Lasar PN 462-021 whichis a piper part number Piper PN 461-931 replaced 462-021

Did you find PN 550017-005 at Spruce? Seems to be a Mooney PN actullay Nose gear spacer?

visually make sure your carb heat is working properly and its also closing and opening completly, not loose. No leaks in exhaust or intake, recheck them for signs of leaks. Recheck those carb stops. Mag timing?? Idle and mixture settings only when engine is to temp, not just warm, no more than 50RPM increase ( 25 better) when mixture its pullled. Dont forget to clear between adjustments then you can move on to prop take off RPM My .02

My early flying in the midwest taught me alot about Icing, both carb icing and airframe icing. Carb icing can sneak up on you, a slow loss of power during cruise, or on take off or climb out when your just not perfoming as well as you should. Dont hesitate to apply carb heat when you think icing is possible, you can aways turn it off. During initial climb out When your engine swallows that first chunk of water in bad carb icing, it will get your attention, you will think the carb heat is the problem when the engine shutters for which seems to last for several min ( really only a second). Now continuing your initial climb out with reduced perfomance is another thought process. Make sure your carb heat works properly. dont ever say it wont happen to you. know the indications of carb icing beyond the carb temp guage should have more focus during primary/ IFR training dont hesitate to use your carb heat

I have an accutrak control box