Shiny moose

They seem to be hard to find, I guess I do mine the old fashion way

Looking to upgrade my 67 M20F left instrument panel, anyone have a CAD or a drawing, or an old panel that I can get the measurements from so I don’t have to remove mine until I’m ready Looking to install 2 G5s and remove the bend.

My 67F with 3 blades, well rigged, flap gap seals, lower cowl closed, 8-11K DA, 65-68% power, 9.9-10.1 GPH 155KTS TAS

Found this same rub on my first annual on my F with OEM cowl, split rubber hose over the aluminum, High temp RTV, and a slight squeeze on the scat. Easypeasy

I have a few of them but I’m out of town for 3 weeks

We have all done things in aviation that if known about, other aviators would think we are dumb, silly, or incompetent. Hell this is in every aspect of life I think. My .02

My F handles grass just fine. Pucks handle the bumps very well, increase your TO and landing distances, pay attention to morning dew!

I would prefer someone produce the old style slider for a fair price, as my old slider has lasted 50+ years so I would only have to buy 1. Some younger folks. Might have to buy 2

+1 on this. The only question would be, when is it a hot start? How long after shutdown do you consider this procedure? At what time does it turn into a normal start. best thing for starting that I did on my F was to install a sky tec starter.

I use one of the non lighted versions on my motorcycle to ensure I travel the better roads and not the ones the GPS wants me to travel . Airplane I use my own laminated or ForeFlight’s checklist.

I pulled new wires to each wingtip strobes on my 67F ads they had them connected to the nav lights, not to hard, a few bad screws, used my daughters skinny long arms to run the wires, then a new a breaker Switch for the strobes, maybe 4 hours to complete. Well worth the effort so I can turn strobes off on the ground at night and IMC at night.

I will also add to check the clamp bolt that attaches the cowl flap Assy to the motor mount, these can become loose and the whole assy will slide down, causing the rod end to contact the firewall and if loose, your cowl flaps will not stay in adjustment. I have not been able to find a measurement for the correct placement, but mine were loose, I was able to move mine up 1/2 inch, leveled both sides, getting space between the rod ends and the firewall then adjust cowl flaps. As stated before if your rod ends are hitting the firewall you will struggle with pushing and pulling the cowl flap knob. After reading again I see this was already address by shad

Looking for a Brittain altitude hold chamber PN 11353 . If anyone has one laying around let me know

We wont include that one, My wife also has a bachelors in plastics engineering then many more degrees and is a university Professor. So exclude professor also. Maybe its a different letter I was thinking about !!!

Haha if yours is using the whole hand, find another one!! Sorry

Haven’t you heard, never trust anyone who’s profession begins with a P I’m waiting for the results

I cannot open your file, I hope this helps your investigation on the correct entries into your W&B

I can understand your point and trying to help this guy figure out a maybe problem, or maybe not a problem, but my point was that he needs a min FF to get the full power On an O360 180 HP 200HP or any other piston powered engine, more than that will be for cooling, to much and you’ve caused another issue, to less fuel flow than needed to produce the rated power and you will not get to that HP no matter what you do to the engine. The manufacturer gives you what they need for FF for the additional cooling. In our world I dont think you can pull more HP out of a .5 pound of fuel than it has in it. If someone said they have an IO360 200HP that they have modified to burn only 10 gph on take off and 5gph per hour at 70% power I would call it a scam. An IO360 200HP pushing 60% or 120 HP will burn 10gph or a O360 180HP pushing 67 % or 120HP will burn the same 10gph, or how about a 540 400HP, if it is ran at 30% or 120HP ( dont know why we would do this ) you would burn 10gph. It’s about the HP not the engine size. I agree BTU is what is what energy it takes to raise one pound of water by 1 degree, and fuel has BTUs , but BFSC is directly realated to this question as it is fuel flow per hour (pounds per hour) divided by HP .

100LL has BFSC of .5 gallon per hour per HP, weight 6.02 lbs at SL @59 degrees, to get your 180 hp 15GPH 200HP 16.6 just my .02

Not difficult but follow the rules. https://www.faa.gov/about/office_org/field_offices/fsdo/phl/local_more/media/ferry_permit.pdf

As others have stated. Ensure you have the correct switch installed, I believe 10-357210-1 is correct (please verify). Full right and you should clearly hear your SOS buzzing, also grounding both 20-25 BTDC points, while ungrounding your retard breaker 0 BTDC on the left mag. Pushing the key in will turn the starter, two separate functions, both needed. You clearly stated that starting issues started after a new switch was installed, start there!

ReCheck your wiring on the new switch, does your SOS box make noise when key is full right, look at SOS box and make sure the wires are connected.

There are a few on eBay.

Mine is also short, i did cut a slot in it and use my mooney key size screwdriver to turn it on and off, and master must be on to use it. If it was any longer I would have a hole in my head exactly the same size.

Where was the annual completed? Can you show the sign off in the logbook?