MisfitSELF

It's likely between age or vibration that a seal is wore out. They sell refurb kits for the old school compasses but be careful to to not screw down the case down too much or you'll crack the glass (which is $40 btw, ask me how I know....) BTW, what's a "standby compass"? Do you mean your primary (or only) magnetic compass or do you have two magnetic compasses in your aircraft? I ended up after much flailing with my old compass in which I replace the seals, fluid, glass, and mount -- installing "SIRS Compass" Bruce P.S. If you're anywhere near the SO CAL area and can get to L00 (Rosamond Skypark). I'll happily give you what I have in regards to the Airpath Compass if that's what you have. I may have the refurb kit, fluid and some parts still laying around.

Which autopilot is that?

Indeed, the Slick Mags that come with the A3B6 suck hard. Take my several data points. I've had them replaced 4 times in two years according to the logs before I owed the aircraft, and I had to send them in once to get an "SB" performed because the timing would drift with temperature changes. Since Champion took over the brand, they've seemed to have a lot of problems. However, the advantage of having the A3B6 is that you can change out a mag for an electronic ignition like the Surefly which I will do in the next couple months. You may also be able to install a Bendix mag instead.

I installed in my M20J in anticipation of getting a Surefly installed on the left side. My only complaints are: 1. Sometimes (maybe once or twice) I forget to turn on the right mag until I get out to run-ups. 2. The mag switches are too "soft" meaning that it's too easy to flip them off and on. I installed mine right where the original key switch was located which is directly under my digital clock. On one occasion, in turbulence, while starting my timer for a practice instrument approach, my hand accidentally turned off one of the mag switches. 3. Once (and only once, so far) I forgot to turn them off. Advantages: 1. You don't have the bendix 100 hours AD grounding checks anymore. 2. Cleaner Look -- feels cool to use a push button start 3. You have a solid feel for which mag is on and off during mag checks.

My J (1984, S/N 24-1425, I think) got a factory re-manufactured engine in 2013. It got a A3B6. I think it had a A3B6D prior to that. (I purchased it in 2017)

Did you ever find your tach? I've searched and searched and can't find them online. I recently purchased a used one from someone here on Mooneyspace for $150 who just upgraded his panel. That may be your best bet these days.

Yes

I just replace both my main tires and tubes. I have a 1984 M20J with hub caps. Of course I have to take off the caps to service them. My previous right tube leaked slowly and I ended up having to service it every 2-3 weeks. Previous owner said something about it being a "cheap" tube. Here's the ones I got and I haven't had to service them since June! https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/michAviator2.php

I have some old Bendix King autopilot (KAP and KFC 100/150) installation manuals. I have one in .pdf format for the KFC150 and I just scanned in a bunch of .tiffs for the KAP/KFC 100/150 manual. This begs the question:s is there any place on Mooneyspace that these could go to to help others avoid paying some document scalper? Also, can anybody convert a bunch of .tiffs into a .pdf?

Worked in my M20J. I guess you need to specify the bulb size. They have all kinds on Amazon, I'm willing to bet you'll find the right one.

Maybe you have a Hangar Elf that will install these for you... Amazon.com: Shuyee Super Bright BA9S LED Car Bulbs, BA9 53 57 1895 64111 LED Lamp for Instrument Cluster Door Courtesy Map License Plate Light on RV Camper Trailer, Pack of 10 : Automotive

I guess I wouldn't so peeved about the situation if I wasn't getting ghosted by the shops--don't tell me you'll get me a quote then never call or email me back.

Ironic -- my 275's just hit their "392 day" expiration for performing the battery capacity test over the last couple of weeks. It was pretty straight forward. The good news was the the 275's tell you that it's due. 1. Master switch on with the knob depressed to go into configuration mode. 2. Roll over to Calibration/Test page. Then go to the battery page 3. Select Test -- check the "checklists", then go to start. 4. Test starts when you turn off the master switch 5. Then just let it run until the batteries deplete. My guess is that if it runs for an hour or more, it calls it good. Finally I had to run with the master switch on for a couple of hours on external power to recharge the back up batteries. Bruce

I wondering if anybody else is experiencing this: I've reached out to 3 shops now to get a quote on a Surefly installation. None have gotten back with me for a quote. Two have came back with "sorry, we've been really busy and we'll get you the quote shortly" -- now it's been about 3 weeks and I've heard nothing from any of them. I've also went to a avionics shop I've done a lot of work with in the past to get a quote on a GFC 500 upgrade and they told me they are booked until at least Feb or March 2022. I can't even throw money at these people! Is this just me?

Because I've had the ram air removed on my M20J.

Can they make one without the ram air hole?

I used to take my Toyota MR-2 only to Toyota Dealerships for Oil Changes and Maintenance....you know, because they are the experts, right? That stopped on the day the Toyota certified grease monkey needed my help finding the engine...

TOGA button is described in the GI275 Pilots Manual in the autopilot section -- page 197 for the electronic copy I'm looking at now. 190-02246-01_g.pdf (garmin.com) 201Mooniac, can you post a picture of how you have it installed?

I see a lot of folks recommending CO detectors but what do you gain versus the $5 "black spot" one you replace every year?

These worked just fine. My only complaint is that there isn't much difference between bright and dim. These are more like "very bright" and "very slightly less very bright" Mine is a 1984 M20J so your mileage may vary.

I put these in my overhead lights. Worked great. Amazon.com: Shuyee Super Bright BA9S LED Car Bulbs, BA9 53 57 1895 64111 LED Lamp for Instrument Cluster Door Courtesy Map License Plate Light on RV Camper Trailer, Pack of 10 : Automotive Here's a couple of others that cost a bit more and require some paperwork + log book enteries. But are still pretty cheap by aircraft standards. For ~$800 (parts and labor) I got a USB Clock installed: MID-CONTINENT CHRONOS DIGITAL CLOCK / HIGH POWER DUAL USB-A CHARGER 30W/6A OUT 6420093-2 | Aircraft Spruce For ~$300 (my labor, supervised - of course) I installed a push to start button: ELECTROAIR EA-15000 IGNITION SWITCH PANELS - STC | Aircraft Spruce Oh, and get a label maker. It will pay for itself when ever you need to refresh or make placards. Amazon.com : Brother P-touch Label Maker, PC-Connectable Labeler, PTD600, Color Display, High-Resolution PC Printing, Black, Black/gray : Office Products

My POH for short field for my M20J says to fly it at 65kts. I'd be concerned if the set point for the GFC was set to 69 as I'd likely be established and stable at 65kts above 200 AGL. I'm surprised it wouldn't have a gear down or flaps down switch to either lower the set point or disable it.

Same. I think the lower shipping cost on Amazon makes the difference in who I purchase from. Plus I had one bad experience with a case of oil from Spruce -- it took them 3 weeks to get me the oil. So I went ahead and ordered another case from Amazon a full two weeks after my order from Spruce and the Amazon order still came in a day before the Spruce order.

Has anyone used the new Apple Watch as a oximeter in flight?

If I have to use O2, I use a pulse-oximeter. If I get near or below 90%, I ramp up the flow and remind myself to breath through the nose more.