MisfitSELF

My POH for short field for my M20J says to fly it at 65kts. I'd be concerned if the set point for the GFC was set to 69 as I'd likely be established and stable at 65kts above 200 AGL. I'm surprised it wouldn't have a gear down or flaps down switch to either lower the set point or disable it.

Same. I think the lower shipping cost on Amazon makes the difference in who I purchase from. Plus I had one bad experience with a case of oil from Spruce -- it took them 3 weeks to get me the oil. So I went ahead and ordered another case from Amazon a full two weeks after my order from Spruce and the Amazon order still came in a day before the Spruce order.

Has anyone used the new Apple Watch as a oximeter in flight?

If I have to use O2, I use a pulse-oximeter. If I get near or below 90%, I ramp up the flow and remind myself to breath through the nose more.

For my "big avionics upgrade" last year I wanted to get rid of the vacuum pump and the directional/autopilot gyro as they have both failed me in the last couple of years. I also wanted to set up my airplane to upgrade the autopilot at some future date. I went with dual 275's and a 750 as it coupled almost perfectly with my KAP-150 and should give me the upgrade path to the GFC500. Aside from having a pitch bobble with my current autopilot, I'm actually quite happy with the combination of 275's, 750 and my KAP-150. For the OP, I'd consider just biting the bullet and either get the G5 or 275 installed. I know -- it's going to hurt the wallet to get the GFC500 by itself!

This is awesome input. Hee hee, I was right seat of a V-tail that had an electical fire under the glare shield. The owner, unbeknown to him, had a barrel fuse to simply tied from +12V to ground with a fuse that understandably kept blowing (previous own had just left the blown fuse in). The current owner didn't know what the fuse and wire was for and took out the fuse, thinking that this was safer than having the fuse constantly burning out. Apparently, I moved it just right when I plugged in my headsets and the wire on either end of the empty barrel fuse came together... After the fact we speculated that sometime in the past, that wire was used for something that was removed. But instead of removing the wire, some idiot just tied it to ground. The aftermath was that he rewired his whole electrical system.

Did you run the +12V all the way from the battery in the "avionics bay" behind the baggage compartment? That actually seems to me to be the hardest part.

My stock RPM gage gets it's signals from the P-leads, wired to the ignition switch then to a couple of resistors. So how do I get "left and right" RPM or do "mag/SIM checks" then?

My aircraft: 1984 M20J with IO-360-A3B6. I may be pulling the trigger on installing a Surefly in the next couple of months. Any recommendation as to installers in the southern California, Nevada, Arizona area? Also, does it make sense for me to buy the components first then find an installer? I know I asked the question a few month ago but it looks like the landscape may have changed. I noticed on the Surefly web site they have preferred installers. However, Schewendy at Chino, which would be close to homebase, have not been returning my calls or emails. The next closest is in Prescott Arizona. One more question: I saw on the Aircraft Spruce page where it says that if your EIS uses the mag P-lead then call Surefly for additional information -- my RPM gauge and EIS (Insight G4) uses the P-lead for RPM. Does anybody what the issue or concern is? Thanks, Bruce

My annual is due at the end of July and looking at doing it at Foothill as a change of pace. I've done my last 3 as owner assisted and the last two with the same IA. Any reviews? My motivations: a. owner assisted is a boat ton of work and I'm hoping to take a break this time around. b. I figure it's good to get a new set of eyes on my bird every couple of years.

As far as I can tell, you never need to update the 275 databases even if you fly IFR.

I found my Arrow and 182RG time really helped prepare me for the Mooney. Shop around and be patient. Market's though for buyers right now but you can't go wrong with a Mooney.

It's definitely a "red flag"...except its liquid and not a flag.

Some follow up: I just ordered two Air Hawks and the Michelin leak stop tubes to go with them. Yesterday at some point either due to pilot technique (likely) and the nasty crosswinds I put a spot on my left (the good tire as my luck would have it) through a couple of layers of cord. Now I have to replace two tires...at least I'll hopefully get that pesky slow leak fixed in my right tire. If I have the mind for it, I'll give you folks a review as I put landings on them.

And NOT the GTN 750. Ask me how I know. It's a bit frustrating that I can share flight plans in Foreflight in my friends Bo with a GNX 375 but I can't with my newer and and expensive 750 in my Mooney.

The best tip I have when safety wiring that bolt is to make a hook out of the wire and some long needle nose pliers to get it hooked into the hole in the bolt.

Seems a shame. Priced competitively and made available, it would seem that these would make a revenue stream for Mooney while they figured things out. There's a few items on that list that sound pretty cool but I can't even tell if I really need or want them based on the sparse information and no prices listed. Why even post this list on your website? Are you listening Mooney? For instance, I've been having issues with my RPM gauge -- would one of these retrofit kit tachs be my solution? I've also been flying a lot with a portable O2 system. What one of those retro-fit O2 systems be something I should consider? And the list goes on... It would help answer these question if they included a photo, a paragraph or two of description, and an approximate price minus labor.

Ref: Retrofit_Revised.xls (mooney.com) Is there a place where you can find pictures and more detailed descriptions or explanations of these retrofit kits?

Found a number of these in the aviation parts section of my local Karl's Hardware but they were too large...these may just fit the bill. Thanks.

Per the POH. They use the the same holes that are drilled into the seat rails for the seat stops (the cotter pin that keeps the seat on the rail on the aft end). I couldn't find any D rings small enough or of the right configuration at the aviation debt of my local hardware store.

I own a 1984 M20J that has the rear seats that can be removed to convert the aircraft into a cargo hauler. The POH has a reference to Cargo "D" rings and cargo restraint belts in the weight and balance section as well as a description and picture of the setup in the systems section. However I can't find it in the parts manual. Any idea where I find these "D" rings, belts, and the associated attaching hardware? Thanks, Bruce

I have a 1984 M20J. My right main tire is almost in need of replacement as it's just shy of being "bald" and I was looking for the Mooneyspace hivemind's recommendation for replacement of tire and tube. Also, my left tire is in good shape. Either previous owners have replaced them separately or always landed right tire first. However, my A&Ps tell me to always replace the mains at the same time. And I also understand you should always change the tube when you change the tire. What do you guys think? Thanks, Bruce

When I had my avionics upgraded, I told my shop to remove all the vacuum related stuff firewall aft. They removed the peanut gauge, wired the vacuum light such that it illuminates when you hit the push to test but it otherwise doesn't illuminate (I may need a placard for this or cover it at some point). And as far as I can tell they removed removed all the vacuum tubes under the panel. However, they left in the vacuum regulator (the one with the garter filter) and another vacuum filter that I'm not sure was even plumbed to anything before the mod. I had to then remove these two items that were bolted to the cockpit side of the firewall. I believe they didn't want to touch these as they would create a hole in the firewall once removed. This and everything firewall forward me and my IA handled. Of note: my engine cover installation for my IO-360-A3B6 looks a little bit different. It turns out that you have to keep the vacuum pump adapter (and consequently the drive gear) for it to seal right. I was hoping to save the extra couple of pounds. Bruce

Auto Metal Direct W-641 Auto Metal Direct Ashtrays | Summit Racing Maybe?

For $600 each, I'd be tempted to sell you mine! Then I can go out and buy that Surefly ignition system.