MisfitSELF

A couple of questions for the forum: 1. How do you file an ICAO flight plan with FSS using the radio? 2. How do you file an ICAO flight plan with FSS using the telephone (the old fashion way)? I'm not asking about how you dial a phone (1-800-WX-BRIEF) or how to pull up FSS on a radio -- I got that. What I'm asking about is what do you say, and in what order? I've set of my Foreflight to do flight plans in the ICAO format. So if I plan and file via Foreflight and the internet it's 'easy peasy.' However, there've been a couple of occasions where I need to file a "pop up IFR" or I didn't have internet access and the ICAO format just blows my mind if you don't have everything filled out. For the the previous method, I had a business card sized version of the legacy FAA Form 7233-1 and it was easy to pull that little card out and rattle off the elements from that card to the FSS. For my little brain, the ICAO format makes things so much harder... Thanks, Bruce

It's so difficult peeing in the F-16 that in the 250+ hours I had as a back seater, I just held it. This included 6+ hour sorties. Once I really had to go, I was wearing a poopy suit and couldn't for the life of me get the zipper open to pee - I almost just went in the suit. We had one of our pilots that would give about a serious 30min lecture on how to pee in the F-16. He would get to the gals in the unit and say, "You girls are on your own. I don't have a clue how that works" So, indeed, peeing in the F-16 is so difficult that they have instructional briefings and videos on the subject. Nevermind a song about the subject:

You can. There may be some "undesirable" dynamics between your butt and the seat that may result in serious injury. But at low level/low speed (<14,000 and 450 kts), one of the first things that seat is going to do after stabilizing is cut the lab belt and kick you out. If you're above 14K you're to ride the seat down until it kicks you out...that's where the lap belt is essential. Otherwise the "only" straps that really matter are your parachute shoulder harnesses.

Does any one have link or instructions for running a flour bombing event? I may be looking to do something like this is a few months. I've seen it done, I've watched some youtube videos, but I was looking for specific things like: Safety rules, scoring rules, things to work out with your air field tower/management (believe it or not I may do this at lightly used towered field), how to set up targets, how to make the flour bombs, can you color code the flour bombs, and anything that I'm too ignorant to ask about... Thanks, Bruce

Pirep: my installer (Top Gun in Stockton) tried all kinds of resistor combinations and still could not get the Surefly to provide RPM data to the legacy Tach. This was with and without the Tach 2 module in the loop. After much heartache in trying to get this to work and working with the folks at Surefly, I ultimately elected to purchase an EI Tach that replaced my legacy B&D Tach. I now have both left (Surefly SIM) and right (Slick Mag) hooked up and reading on the EI Tach without the use of the Tach 2 module and it seems to be working (although, I can't stand the look of the EI Tach -- personal preference, it doesn't however fit well where the original Tach used to be and I can learn to like it I suppose). Some other fall-out to this install: The insight G4 RPM was also not working with Surefly so that has been switch to the right mag. And the Hobbs meter (which I really used as a "Tach") is now hooked up to the EI Tach and it's placarded as IN-OP. I may consider removing the Hobbs meter all together at some point (if I have no Hobbs meter does all my flying become 'free'?).

+1 SIRS compass.

I have a M20J with a B&D Tach (one that uses electrical pulses from the Mags to get RPM). My installer for the Surefly is having trouble getting the RPM to work in my engine monitor (an Insight G4) or my stock B&D Tach. I purchased the Tach 2 board and he still can't get it to work with either signal outputs. He's stumped, it seems Surefly guys are stumped as well. Anybody have there own experience with this? Tricks or gothas? Unforetunally the aircraft is a couple hundred miles away from me getting the upgrade so I don't have much more than phone calls, texts and emails to help work this out. Bruce J. Wilder

My personal assessment is that www.airnav.com seems to have better and more timely comments than Foreflight but I use both. Calling the FBO when I've narrowed it down is the best option.

Many hours of experience in the F-16 and a cockpit at 40k feet (where cabin pressure may approach 25k feet). I'd just drop my mask, take a sip from my water bottle, then put my mask back up. Never had an issue. If I had my mask down for a couple of minutes, I may feel some hypoxia symptoms.

Not going to be a factor. Next time I fly my Mooney, the left mag will be a Surefly.

Hey I do this novel and innovative hot start technique on my M20J (fuel injected). There's this procedure in this blue book in my airplane that works great! I recommend you check it out -- I bet your airplane has one too. Pardon the sarcasm. I had this crony at my home field give me the whole "you're probably doing it wrong so I'll show you the RIGHT way to start your engine" spiel. I humored him but I knew the result as I've tried this before. His "technique" was to leave the throttle at 1200 on shutdown and just restart. Result -- you crank and crank and the engine doesn't start - surprise. I guess this works for some, but it definitely didn't work for me. For my engine that's not enough throttle for a hot or "flooded" start. You have to use full throttle / idle mixture technique as stated on my checklist. Imagine that? Follow the checklist.

Looks like they're back! But it's going to cost you...10 AMU and that's probably not including labor. https://www.emapa.aero/Monroy-Mooney-Fuel-Increase-Upgrade-p/mooney-fuel-increase-upgrade.htm

Would she say where she was located?

Thanks. Basic reading comprehension fail on my part. I read that and for some reason only thought it applied to Mogas.

Since you're just "buying paperwork" with the STC and not changing anything with your engine, I can't imagine why you can't. The GAMI webpage, however, doesn't specifically answer this questions. It does state that if you have a Mogas STC you can mix it with G100UL but doesn't mention this in regards to 100LL. Anybody know? Personally, it'll be sweet to be able to eventually use both in my IO-360 and I'd be happy to pay a few hundred bucks even if it's just paper once it gets proven out and approved for my engine.

How about some of us just "squat" in the factory and make some replacement parts. lol...

+1 for this combo. I used to have to service my right tire every 2 weeks or less, now they only drop 1-2 psi in six months. I was also one of those "I've never flat spotted a tire cause I'm god's gift to aviation" type of guys until I flat spotted a tire in stiff cross winds. It only takes a fraction of a second of being on brake at the wrong moment and your expensive tire becomes a hangar story.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/in/compasses_airpath/repairkit.php

It's likely between age or vibration that a seal is wore out. They sell refurb kits for the old school compasses but be careful to to not screw down the case down too much or you'll crack the glass (which is $40 btw, ask me how I know....) BTW, what's a "standby compass"? Do you mean your primary (or only) magnetic compass or do you have two magnetic compasses in your aircraft? I ended up after much flailing with my old compass in which I replace the seals, fluid, glass, and mount -- installing "SIRS Compass" Bruce P.S. If you're anywhere near the SO CAL area and can get to L00 (Rosamond Skypark). I'll happily give you what I have in regards to the Airpath Compass if that's what you have. I may have the refurb kit, fluid and some parts still laying around.

Which autopilot is that?

Indeed, the Slick Mags that come with the A3B6 suck hard. Take my several data points. I've had them replaced 4 times in two years according to the logs before I owed the aircraft, and I had to send them in once to get an "SB" performed because the timing would drift with temperature changes. Since Champion took over the brand, they've seemed to have a lot of problems. However, the advantage of having the A3B6 is that you can change out a mag for an electronic ignition like the Surefly which I will do in the next couple months. You may also be able to install a Bendix mag instead.

I installed in my M20J in anticipation of getting a Surefly installed on the left side. My only complaints are: 1. Sometimes (maybe once or twice) I forget to turn on the right mag until I get out to run-ups. 2. The mag switches are too "soft" meaning that it's too easy to flip them off and on. I installed mine right where the original key switch was located which is directly under my digital clock. On one occasion, in turbulence, while starting my timer for a practice instrument approach, my hand accidentally turned off one of the mag switches. 3. Once (and only once, so far) I forgot to turn them off. Advantages: 1. You don't have the bendix 100 hours AD grounding checks anymore. 2. Cleaner Look -- feels cool to use a push button start 3. You have a solid feel for which mag is on and off during mag checks.

My J (1984, S/N 24-1425, I think) got a factory re-manufactured engine in 2013. It got a A3B6. I think it had a A3B6D prior to that. (I purchased it in 2017)

Did you ever find your tach? I've searched and searched and can't find them online. I recently purchased a used one from someone here on Mooneyspace for $150 who just upgraded his panel. That may be your best bet these days.

Yes