MisfitSELF

For the folks who've installed the liners. I just got mine and was looking for advice on techniques to fit and trim them in addition to what you did in regards to painting them. Thanks. Bruce

Now we need a version for control surface rigging! Could use the same setup perhaps?

That's a good idea. The admins could add a category for 3d print files.

Is there a site or forum that has links specifically to or for Mooney Parts? I know about the rocker switch covers and purchased one off Shapeways a couple of years ago but was hoping that there would be a "one stop" listing of things or model files that are available online from either Shapeways or Thingverse that are meant as simple Mooney replacement parts that could be 3D printed. I'm thinking that would be a good "sticky" for Mooneyspace. (of course standard disclaimers apply in terms of owner produced parts....yadda yadda yadda)

And yes, I know they are identical antennae. DM NI 70-2 with a band of ~950 to 1220Mhz.

Yeah, I can ask my Avionics guys (who installed the ADS-B), but I'm afraid he may have just unplugged the old coax and plugged it into the new unit. I tried tracing the coax from below and above with the dash cover off, and it's such a rat's nest of wires, that I can't positively tell which is which. I was hoping that there was a "stock answer" since one of the antennas goes to my old KNS-80. Bruce

I own a 1984 M20J that has mostly stock avionics and two blade antennas on the lower section just aft of the cowling. They are right behind the exhaust on the right side and the engine drain tubes on the left. I'm 99% sure that one is for the transponder/ADS-B and the other is for the DME. Can anybody tell me which antennas are which? Pardon if this has been covered already. A search of of "antenna", "DME", and "locations" didn't turn up what I was looking for. Thanks, Bruce

Agreed. How the story end?! I'm on pins and needles. My RH "inner" gear door started growing cracks and I'm looking for alternatives or replacements. Anybody got a line on this STC door that eliminates the aft fairings (which are also cracked on my bird). Does LASAR still have replacement doors? It looks like they are sold old and they were >$1000 each when they had them. I've haven't been able to find them sold anywhere (not counting eBay). Bruce

These things get surprisingly hot.

For the price I'd rather have seen them upgrade the G5 to do all these things. But I may still find myself getting one or two of these 275's in the next year or two as my HSI and gyro are showing signs that they are near end of life. I would have purchased a KI300 a year and a half ago had it been available when my vacuum pump died. Instead I put in a new pump.

Are you using "fixed" or the "advanced" timing?

It used to be the argument for Garmin not supporting the older autopilots was that they wanted to sell their GFC's. It was in my case working against them. As much as I wanted to ditch my legacy vacuum system and gyros, I was holding off getting the G5 and especially dual G5's because I'd have to spent so much getting new radios and autopilot. I for one would get a G5 or even dual G5's in the next couple of months if they supported my KAP150 and legacy radios. And would likely upgrade to the GFC500 in the nearer future because of it. Bruce

I'm curious about the benefits of the "advance" timing feature. If you only have one SureFly installed (assuming left side) isn't the right mag still set to a standard fixed timing of 20 or 25 degrees TDC (depending on your engine)? Wouldn't it be better to match the fixed timing rather than your mags going off at potentially different times? Also, can you combine the Electoair ignition switch with the SureFly Mag? Thanks, Bruce

I have the quick drain on my engine. It's nice, I thought they were all like that... I am hoping to actually get my filter changed and do an oil sample. My rough plan was to get a case of oil and filter delivered in advanced to my parents house. I'm packing a torque wrench, safety wire, pliers, and sample kit. No doubt, however, I'll get quoted a higher price if I help....

Thanks Tom. Those sound like good options.

I wasn’t asking for “how to”. I change my oil myself but I’ll be traveling extensively in that area and was wanting to know “where to”. The Datona Beach area would work. I’ll be tied down for a few days at KTIX. If someone has pointers about getting oil changes “while on the road”, I’ll take that too.

Looking for recommendations for a place to get an oil change for my M20J in central Florida (east coast). Thanks, Bruce

Just an update on my particular issue: I found and replaced the 15K Ohm resistors leading from the ignition switch to the RPM gauge. Turns out they were right next to the ignition switch as described in the MX manual. The result: little to no change. Maybe a bit less jumpy in both but it didn't fix the problem. Remember, in my case, it's jumpy in "BOTH" but rock steady in "LEFT" or "RIGHT" and I have the 'electronic' not mechanical RPM gauge. Could the ignition switch but the culprit? It's a Bendix "push to start" style and unfortunately a replacement off aircraftspruce is $600!

It's a 1984 (built in 1983). S/N 1425 I believe. I have a pic somewhere, just not with me at the moment.

My RPM gauge is "jumpy" too. But only in "both". Once I select either R or L mag, it becomes rock steady. My MX manual says it could be one of the 15K OHM resisters going from the ignition switch to the RPM gauge could be bad. I've look under the "hood" but couldn't find said resistors but was able to trace the whole length of the wire. I'm curious if anybody knows where those resistors are typically located. It could be as simple as just getting new 15K ohm resistors since mine are likely 35 years old. Yes, I now realize that I'm replying to a 6 year old thread.... Bruce

I’ve kept on digging and what I’ve managed to find is that my A3B6 may be properly configured with the jumper removed. The Champion/Slick site isn’t really clear but my right Mag (different model number than my left mag) may not have the impulse coupler.

Clarence, Again, that makes sense but where is this documented? The service instruction says to remove the grounding link, but doesn't say if and when you should leave it or reinstall it. I'm looking for an official service bulletin or instruction. Bruce

I happen to have a A3B6 like the OP and it would appear my ignition switch is modified per M20-59A. What you are saying makes sense but can you tell me where it is "officially" documented that M20-59A needs to be reversed if you have the dual mag? Unfortunately all the service instruction says it's "to improve starting characteristics" but it doesn't say why so I can't say for sure that if you have one mag configuration you should have apply M20-59A and if you have another you shouldn't. Please don't get me wrong, I'm not questioning your knowledge. I just want the bulletin or instruction I can show my A&P as to why the reversal needs to be done.

I have a M20J S/N 24-1425 with the Avionics Products landing gear actuator. I just finished my last annual and noted that the emergency extension cable coating or plastic cover is stripping off about 20 inches down (almost at the full travel point). Is there a source for a replacement extension cable? Edit: according to my parts manual it's part number 560254 and theirs a note that it's a "CABLE, EMERGENCY EXTENSION (SUPPLIED W/ ACTUATOR ASSY BY AVIONICS PRODUCTS)" Thanks. Bruce