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MisfitSELF

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Everything posted by MisfitSELF

  1. I own a 1984 Mooney M20J and the Oil Pressure Transducer failed. It has a Rochester XD0311-02001 with the legacy engine cluster gages. I looking to see if there is a suitable substitute that may be new, certified; and, hopefully plug and play . I have found used ones online and may end up going that route but would like a new part if available. Thanks, Bruce
  2. I may need to message Bob Weber as another poster suggested but here's my "pitch bobble" -- often when even the autopilot is on, whether in climb, descent, or altitude hold, my airplane will start a low amplitude oscillation or bounce in pitch at about a 1hz rate. I can arrest it with some yoke pressure but it will return. It seems to be "filtered out" or doesn't develop if I'm in turbulent air. This behavior existed before I installed the Garmin 275's and 750.
  3. OP -- don't be so hard on yourself. I wouldn't call this complacent at all. You're cruising around and there's something small - almost invisible that's not even suppose to be there that surprises you -- sounds like a normal response to me and it's not your fault. I've flown past little mylar balloons by less than 100' before that I didn't see until I "cross overed" and it still took about 2-5 seconds to process WTF I just saw. Bottom line that drone shouldn't have been there at all and I'm afraid not much will be done by the FAA until they have a stack of dead bodies to highlight the problem.
  4. The parts manual says it ought to be the 12V bulb -- the GE330 as referenced in my post.
  5. It wasn't the wire, but the tiny rubber gasket that protects it came apart. You know the one that protects the wire as it goes threw one of the metal holes up to the socket? Now I'm considering whether I try to track done the OEM gasket or just fashion my own out of some careful dabs of RTV.
  6. 1984 M20J -- 14V Electrical System Since I've had the aircraft (about 6 year now), the landing gear indicator on the floor has been hard to read during the day. At night the light illuminates the indication adequately. For a couple of years now, I've been promising myself that I would either clean the transparency or replace the light bulb with a brighter light, perhaps even an LED version. My bird is an annual right now so it's on jacks with the belly panel off, so now is the time to fix this problem! So I remove the bulb and it turns out that its a 28V bulb (the GE 327) rather than the 14V GE330 that is specified in the parts book. That likely explains why I couldn't see it during the day, but would there be a reason for the 28V bulb being installed? Is the 14V ones too bright at night? Was some previous owner or A&P just lazy and put in a random bulb that fit? Could it have been installed that way at the factory? Is there some advantage such as longevity to using the 28V bulb? So many questions. Bruce
  7. I currently have an Air / Oil Separator on my airplane but was wondering what the tribal knowledge was on this topic. I'm sure it has to have been hashed out in detail so if you have link to the thread, please link it. BTW: M20J, Lycoming IO-360-A3B6 Bruce
  8. As far as I know, no. I'm not sure how the Mooney's circuit works for the overhead lights...is it 6V on "dim" and 12V on "bright"? All I know is there is now no difference between dim and bright with the LED I had installed. Regardless, the light is sufficiently bright without being stupid bright so I'm happy. If I were being picky, I would have been nice if the "DIM" was really dim to not impact night vision.
  9. These have been working great for my "friend". And it's a direct fit in my "friend's" 1984 M20J. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WF5RCKR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  10. Hmm. Good question. I have a "friend" who's replaced the cabin overhead lights with the little led bulbs. They work great except now there isn't much difference in illumination between "dim" and "bright". The big advantage is that it takes longer to run down the battery when they are accidentally turned on by a passenger and it's not notice by my "friend" for a couple of days. After the fact, that "friend" wishes he would have also tried the red bulbs -- or ideally if the system could somehow be modified to give red light in "dim" and white light on "bright" -- but that's a tangent, sorry. That same "friend" would love to put LED bulbs in for those same indicator lights as the OP mentioned.
  11. If I understand you right that may make sense, though I'm still scratching my head (I'm no EE) as to why the transistors are there in the first place. I had them set to pretty much as dim as they would go -- so if they (the transistors) are current limiting then they are doing their "thing" and getting hot. If I get a chance, I'll see if they cool off at max bright. Bruce
  12. With your dog habit you may want to consider a Caravan or King Air
  13. I've been doing a lot of night flying lately so I've been running my lights a lot. Last night I noticed that the panel was warm to hot around the co-pilot yoke and I traced it up to the two potentiometers (rheostats?) that control the interior light level. Turns out the two transistors on the back of that module were scorching hot to the touch. Is this normal? Bruce
  14. I just checked out the Aveo wingtips website...those look amazing. I'll have to remember that should I ever have this happen to me.
  15. +1 for Knot2U wing tip lenses. Good time to upgrade to LED lights too...
  16. I shopped for years to find that "unicorn" 1967 M20F with the Johnson bar and "all the 201 mods" -- low engine time and usable panel. Came to the conclusion the the best M20F with "all the 201 mods" was a M20J. At the time (2017), you got a 10 year or newer airplane for the same price - and it had "all the 201 mods" built in. Ended up buying a 1984 M20J. It has the single piece belly and the blended wing tips. Previous own had installed after market speed brakes. You also get a wider airspeed envelope for the landing gear with the electric gear (133 kts gear extension and down) which is quite helpful. Bruce
  17. I totally get how both sims would still operate even with the master off. That part that creeps me out is that I don't know how long the battery(or batteries) are REALLY going to last once that alternator dies. I've had a "fully charged battery" die after maybe 30 minutes flying in the day with one radio and transponder running.
  18. From the 5 minutes I've had to read the Surefly Airframe instructions for the dual SIM config, you have to have a backup battery sized such that you can power that SIM for at least an hour. Dealing with batteries, however, it's got to be an imperfect science which gives me a creepy feeling. So as the battery ages, how do you know how long you really have? Normally you kinda know your battery needs to be replaced as starting is more difficult, or you can't power things normally on pre-flight, etc. For this "back-up" you really don't have a good indication that it's not getting or keeping a charge unless you add additional gauges. So you still start on the left mag, on your primary battery and the only time your backup battery and second sim is online is after engine start. So how do you know that the alternator isn't the only thing powering your second sim and that backup battery is dead or dying? Here's the circuit diagram from the Surefly site for how that second SIM should be wired: Bruce
  19. OP here. At the risk of hi-jacking my own thread -- last night while night flying, my alternator fell offline. I had the "HI LO VOLTS" light annunciate and my battery started draining. Luckily it reset with the master switch cycle. But it got me thinking about whether I'd want to go the dual electronic ignition route just yet. If there is a discussion on this on Mooney space please link it here rather than completely go down that rabbit hole in this thread. Thanks to Austintatious for posting the link to Surefly's latest info on this topic. I'll be sure to read the airframe STC instructions. Also, good info posted above for those who have the "D" engines (mine is the IO-360-A3B6 (w/o the "D"). Bruce
  20. I guess it's a good time for the Bo owner to upgrade his wing tip lights to LEDs.
  21. I released rose pedals once from my little pilot window in my M20J. They mostly got sucked out but a couple got blown into the back seat. They mostly spattered on the horizontal tail leaving blood red stains. Luckily the stains rubbed out with a little bit of elbow geese and a wet rag. I'd go with the Cessna.
  22. I wish I kept the email now. My problem was that the "press release" about the STC was very vague on how to comply with the "second" or back up power bus requirement. And, now I can't find anything about it on the Surefly web page. Did I imagine this? I was curious if someone knew more or has actually done this on a Mooney to install two SIMs or dual ignition system and can illuminate me on what was involved. Bruce
  23. I read recently that Surefly got an STC for dual SIM installation as long as your aircraft has a second or backup power bus or battery. I currently own a 1984 M20J and with one Surefly SIM installed. Has anybody yet upgraded their "single power bus" aircraft to dual electronic ignition yet? If so, how did you or what did you do to add the backup power? I'm just toying with the idea of getting rid of the second mag at present as there are pros/cons to either approach. Thanks, Bruce
  24. I "dropped" rose petals out the pilot window of my M20J for a memorial a couple of years ago. They spattered all over the left horizontal tail. It looked like a blood bath.
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