anthonydesmet

Try Apopka - X04. It’s a private fly in community but there are a few folks that will rent out space. My buddy just moved his AEROSTAR out of a hanger so that might be open. I’ll see if I can get the guys info and PM you. Until then try and contact someone at the airport via their website: https://flx04.org someone most likely will know someone that will rent.

Did you top the tanks off yet? How much did you pump back in? What kind of fuel flow indicator do you have? Before my Shadin went out sometimes the display was intermittent…. in other words it was not calculating fuel burn 100% throughout the flight resulting it the fuel indicator reading higher than actual fuel use. Very seldom will a fuel flow computer drop its K factor or default to factory so probably not that. From reading your discretion it just sounds like your factory gauges and possibly wing site gauges are off do to tank transducer/sender. Personally I use the factory fuel gauges just to indicate I am full fuel or half fuel. I never use the factory gauges and site gauges for actual fuel gallon quantity. I am old school and have had too many fuel indicator issues in too many airplanes so I still calculate mentally by using my expected fuel burn at my cruise power setting over time and reference my JPI to make sure everything makes sense. Then when I top off post flight between my calculations, JPI, cockpit gauges and wing site gauges everything should coincide. If not, I start investigating the outlier.

Think the latest version of iPad mini is the 5th generation. 4th and 5 gen have a slightly different size so if you were flying with your old one on your yoke mount the newer version might not fit depending on RAM mount. price will depend on memory size and whether you go Wi-Fi only or wifi plus cellular service. I think it’s $500 to $650 respectively for the lower memory option. I have an older 2nd gen mini but it might frustrate you as the current apple OS updates don’t really run optimally on older iPad and iPhone versions……that’s how they get ya……my grandpa would say……

Gotta be a typo......usually a pilot fat fingers his personal logbook...not his airframe's......

Headrests were aftermarket Toyota Tacoma and and I tied to match old upholstery several years ago but they will match better when I have the seats done next month. Any Toyota circa 1990-2010ish Tacoma, FJ, 4Runner should line up. I have a 2010 FJ and out of curiosity one day I pulled them out and they fit like a glove so found some aftermarket headrests.

Here is some before and after…for the most part plastic can be repaired depending how much time you want to devote. Seats are getting redone mid August so they are the last of the old interior. I shot a close up of the black window trim. I used combination of aluminum adhesive and some auto trim I found that was stiff and bendable. This will keep the plastic along the windows nice and strait since the plastic has a tendency to bow and warp around the screws.

Ohhh Boy! Welcome to laying in bed at night and letting the endless combinations of possibilities consume you…. If you decide to go “all in” on letting someone else do it then I would go with either a Jeager Spacial Interior up in Wisconsin or AEROCOMFORT. if you decide to do it yourself……like I did - primarily because my engine was going through engine overhaul , it was going to be sitting in the hanger for several months and I wanted the challenge…..you can still use both those companies as they also provide great “do it yourself” services. I also have original plastic that was stained, busted, parts missing, cracked, screw holes pulled through, etc but I did not have to replace any of it. It’s all repairable. I used combination of AIRPLANE PLASTICS repair kit, Jeager interior plastic repair, plastic lay up and believe it or not….PVC (the blue stuff, which is basically melted plastic). After you repair and do lots of sanding I used some light color textured spray paint which will cover up any blemishes and then spray your color. I also got rid of ashtrays and filled in 80% of my screw holes. when I put the plastic back in I used about 1/4 of the screws the factory uses. Around the pilot window I only have four screws. I also replaced carpet with a kit from AIRTEX. you can repair and repaint the overhead plastic in place. Glareshield is going to AEROCOMFORT next week and I have seat covers coming from AIRTEX…made that decision just to keep downtime to a minimum. interior trim and armrests were sent to AEROCOMFORT and I went from fabric to leather embroidered. when you pull the plastic it’s also a good time to replace your window plastic if it’s in bad shape. when I go to the hanger tomorrow I will take a picture of all the products I used plus some interior pics.

Just replaced all mine a year ago. Give Hector a call at AEROCOMFORT. you can pick out your new leather color and they will also monogram. This is the easy part. you may end up having to take panels off to remove some of the trim and arm rests or you will end up cracking some of the plastic as you pull clips through. to reinstall I used combination of industrial Velcro, double sided gorilla tape and also used some vehicle interior/trim clips in places depending on the trim. you will be amazed/frustrated how much glue is underneath your current trim holding them in place. You will probably want to clean that up also…….which will lead to repairing/repainting your plastic…….ENJOY!

Never really got above 110 - 120mph either.

Sounds like you have a good going in plan with some flexibility. As mentioned above you can usually work around all the isolated T-Storms in the summer along Florida and Georgia. This is why I am a big fan of VFR flight fowling in the summer. You dont’t need to bother ATC for permission and if you travel on Friday afternoon, Saturday or Sunday most all of the military op areas and restricted areas are cold giving you more deviation room. There are a plethora of military areas along the panhandle Georgia and Florida if you haven’t looked yet. JAX approach is also awesome in coordinating IFR and VFR traffic and helping you out. Tampa will depend on traffic and weather. They may may not accept you but make it to the coast you will be fine. I’d make your takeoff decisions time the day prior. Sometimes we will get build ups that dissipate by evening. Last week I delayed a takeoff from Illinois to noon because everything was going to die down by 1700/1800. Lots of daylight to work with in the summer here also. Also plenty of airports with nice restaurants at the airport or close by in Florida if you have to settle down for a few hours.

+1 for the strikefinder also, especially if embed or at night. Day, summer and just build ups I can see probably would have done what you did. However one thing I would add is that on the east coast, cells are usually moving in a direction (west to east primarily) and I tend to try and get on the backside if possible so I am not trying to “outrace” any build ups down the road. My military time on the west coast I remember things can stay kind of isolated. Sometimes same on east coast then you do have to pick your way through it. I am HUGE fan of VFR flight following in the summer for that reason.

Dido x 6….let us know what the average flight time has been the last few years….Is there any past oil analysis data and engine data previous owner will share? Is there a good engine monitor? If yes, odds are previous owner was conscience about temps and possibly download and analyzed data regularly. If there is a standard engine stock gauges and CHT gauge, previous owner might not have been conscientious of temps and how he flew it.

Did you say this started after last annual or since you installed the 900? Obviously if after last annual or sometime other than install may isolate what’s changed. I’ve found changing wires and sensors but still getting same results means the engine is telling me something. What’s are causes of fluctuating MP other than gauge/sensor error?

+1 for more engine data. Hopefully the faulty CHT gauge isn’t your only source of CHT but if it is and let’s assume it was not faulty and it was trying to tell you something since it happened twice…..assume rapid CHT rise before it melted and bounced to zero …then the rapid rise may indicate detonation. Also another way to be confident it’s not your mag would be to do an in flight mag check. I had a mag go bad that checked fine on deck but when I got airborne and did an in flight check I had rapid CHT rise and EGT and lots of roughness…..I don’t think I would rule out the mag just yet. More engine data will help isolate.

As mentioned above, engine hours is about 1/4 of the story. How long since last overhaul? How many hours a year? If the airplane has 900 hours and has flown 150 hours a year the last 3 to 5 years I would jump all over it assuming good compression and borescope (oil analysis another plus). If 900 hours and flown 50 or less a year I would budget for some kind of overhaul….. really depends how it has been flown and maintained. Does it have a good engine monitor? If so, it probably means previous owner might have been diligent about CHT temps. I’d probably seek the help of SAVVY pre-but to help you walk through it. I also have a TSIO-360MB. Just competed overhaul over a year ago and I made it to 1650 when compressions highlighted some wear. I averaged 120+ a year. Finding a 252 is like a unicorn so definitely worth the time investigating.

Lift it up, take a swig and a bite of your sandwich then fly-on…..

Plus one for all the screw repair recommendations. Edison from WetWingologists did my reseal 8 years ago and is a great southeast source. He would also be happy to do your repair and just get eyes on your issue if your close to him and you don’t think your mech wants to tackle it. But unless you have all the other signs…weeping, puddling, sealant particles showing up in your sump jar you are probably far from needing a reseal.

Yeah there are those “some guys” that prefer to pay for a less aerodynamic airplane that burns more fuel with rising fuel costs…..but who’s to judge…. as far as parts go….. it depends on what’s broke. Right now for some engines you have a three month wait for oil filters….engines are common across multiple airframes so a part there will also effect non Mooney owners equally. Same with most avionics. when you get to Mooney specific parts (gear, switches, cables there are plenty of resources to tap into and MS is a great start. Also helps if your mechanic has Mooney experience who can also tap into the resources or fabricate. Are there as many parts as a Cessna, Bonanza or Piper….depends on model but maybe not quite as many im sure there are folks who will weigh in having had issues but in eight years of ownership I don’t think my flying has slowed down because of parts availability.

I use both these methods also. Clock method keeps you from asking “did I switch that 10 minutes ago?” and if you want to modify your tank switch procedures that particular day then touch it and ask..”do I want to switch it?”….verbal challenge response for me helps make the checklist deliberate…..plus it makes my wife comfortable hearing me go through it.

@IslandPilotsounds like you’re definitely using HDG to track course. If you have NAV selected your autopilot should lead turn to intercept your outbound course at your waypoint according to the flight plan you have activated on your 530. I have a KFC-200 with 430W.

One thing I would add after shutdown is open your oil door. Letting some of the heat out of engine compartment to prevent vapor lock in your fuel lines will help with the start after your stop over. I added this to my TSIO - 360 procedures and have never had an issue after a short stop.

Probably need a little more specifics on what you’re looking for. I’ve gone through two annuals and an engine overhaul and redesigned my interiors since January 2020 all during COVID with no parts supply issues. I do notice a longer delay for avionics but nothing stopping me from executing. But then again a lot might do to location of service.

I can also confirm. Waiting for mine to return this week. $1850 or full up GTN 650 with install was an easy decision. I could potentially buy 3 x 430’s and keep them on the shelf for swap for price of a GTN. Your overhauled 430 also comes back with either a 2 or 1 year warranty (can’t remember). As an FYI, Sarasota Avionics informed me that Garmin is ending 430/530 overhauls this March but they will honor the warranty. Someone around here can probably confirm.

Calling @kortopatesto help point you towards the SB and the library of SAVVY volumes on this subject. Bottom line: don’t lose any sleep over a compression in the 60’s for a TCM. Make sure your mech did the compression properly, do the borescope to get a baseline of how things look and keep doing your engine oil analysis. With a turbo I am a 25 hour oil change kind of a guy…..also plenty of posts on the oil interval subject. ohhhh, also welcome to ownership and things that keep you up at night.

Should be able to isolate it and repair. I think Weep no more and Wetwingologists are both 7 year warranties. 10 Years should still be a relatively solid reseal if you have kept full tanks over the years and you park in a hanger. If so maybe a one off repair. My Mooney hanger neighbor is going on 20 years since his Wetwingologists reseal. If you haven’t stayed full and park outside it might be a sign of things to come.