anthonydesmet

Yes - I usually wait a week. This reading was about 7 days after the flight

Thanks @Warren. My mech told me today he just did a 231 (LB) oil change today and had same issue with consistent reading. He wanted to see if it was just my airplane. From the way you describe I think for me to match your technique with numbers facing forward (towards the prop) that would be my top picture posted above with the loop pointing towards the oil fill tube....which seems to give me the more consistent higher reading if use the bottom of the "U" as @carusoam described.

Ok, here is a weird one I haven't experienced in 8 years of ownership for all you TSIO-360 MB, LB, GB owners: Did a drive by the hanger last night just to check on her....plus check oil level from flight a week ago. As background last weekends flight was first after an oil change in which 8 quarts was added. Before last weekends flight when I checked the oil before my flight (which would have been after the oil change runup) my dipstick read a little over 5.5......I thought weird so I added a quart to 6.5. Last weekend I flew for a little over an hour and then last nights initial reading roughly read 6.5 on the stick but it had some more oil on the sides of the stick going up to 8+ quarts so I wiped the stick off again and got a reading of 5.5 again, wiped off again and pulled a reading of a little over 6 quarts.....wiped stick off again and got another inconclusive reading up to about 8 quarts..... I also noticed when I put the stick in one direction over the other the readings were different....I then played around with the dipstick and straitened it out best I could that would still allow it to go down the tube without getting stuck but that didn't make a difference. so my questions are: 1) is there a proper direction to put the dipstick in....loop facing forward or aft (pics below) 2) Is the dipstick supposed to have a required bend/curve? 3) is it possible the oil is getting wiped off by the side of the tube from the pull (would this happen more with clean oil than dirty oil)? 4) anybody else have this experience I am not so concerned that I don't have oil in the case but more concerned that I want to track usage.

Plenty of room for a 100 lb German shepherd and a 50 lb chow plus cargo. You will need to mod the back seat to lay it flat if your prospective J or K has a bench seat. PM me and I can send you the pdf I found back when I bought my 262. if you are up around X35 let me know and we can meet at my airport. There are two of us K owners. I also may try and get airborne this weekend if schedule permits. If so I can head your way.

Same I’m also on an iPad mini. That’s funny, my prop either stops at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9.

Interesting at least from the picture it looks like the prop isn’t bent as if the engine wasn’t turning at touchdown……looks like a nice controlled landing if intentional

Need to define your mission first or you won’t be happy….

201MKT has it right. Your bottle and regulator are fine. Most likely place might be at the gauge. May have a crack at the gauge....my hanger neighbor had this. Other possibilities are: - check your fitting at the connection...cracks in your hose, your connector not engaging properly - air blowing past the connection. - do you just have your O2 connected or do you also keep copilots O2 connected....valv might be open - when you say it went from 1000 to 0 did you still have good flow?...I had a guage that showed 0 and I had good flow for about an hour when I found my gauge was cracked. but in any case from your discretion it’s not the bottle or regulator.......definitely down stream.....may have to pull some interior panels but before you do definitely check your fittings and work back from there..... also calling @DonMuncywho is an expert at O2.....

Take pictures and a video of your old one. When your new one arrives pull the old one, lay them both flat and match the holes in the new ones. Also mark your first/starter hole in the old one and install in reverse. Reference your pictures if you get stuck.

Hard to see the Main door here but when you look at my fairing at the top that's coming a part...that's about where the main door (does not overlap) was grinded and starts to rise up vice having a long strait edge.

Looking for possible salvage suggestions or if someone has a door and faring laying around.....1980 M20K....I have always had an issue with the top section of my RH middle gear fairing. The fiber glass keeps getting frayed due to the main gear door not coming down all the way to make a perfect overlap of the metal door over the fiberglass fairing. It looks like at one time the previous owner grinded a section out of the aft lower part of the main gear door so instead of having a strait edge going from front to back on the lower metal main gear door it rises up leaving a gap between main gear door and middle gear fairing when the gear is raised resulting in the upper part of the middle fiberglass fairing being exposed....thus fraying due to the air moving across and behind the fiberglass. If I am looking at my IPC correctly part numbers should be: RH Main Gear Door: 550065-004 RH Gear Middle Fairing: 550089-902 (although there are several other sn's) But for now, MLG Door is probably all I want since I can repair the fairing.

Thought this would be a good place to ask this question. I have to remove inner/lower right gear door fairing for some much needed fiberglass repair/maybe order a new one. Previous owner had some mis-rig and chafing so over the last few years we have been building the top part of the door with fiberglass repair to try and keep enough overlap with the metal door but it just isn’t tall enough so I think I am going to start from scratch. Question is, besides thoughts on a new one, Is how many knots do you think it will cost with the fairing pulled...... just to keep the Saturday interesting.....

As an example....is this thread better in General Mooney talk or General Aviation talk or should it have started in Avionics Discussion.......sorry....I couldn’t resist......woke up in a sarcastic.....

My wife and I have been traveling with our Chow and German Shepard for the last seven years. Sleepy time for dogs around 12-15k whisk is my normal cruise altitudes. If I anticipate going up over 15K we have two dog muzzle O2 masks we can put on them.

I configure the exact same way. With the ram arm coming out from underneath the yoke, your iPad mini will cover the center of the yoke in between the handles and should only block your view of the “stby static” and boost pump switches.

@Niko182thanks! Do you know if there is a grounding wire to that plate or if that plate is grounded to the lower instrument panel bar....other than juts being bolted to the plate which is bolted to the bar?

Bolted on what plate and where is the plat mounted? Panel, firewall, counsel?

So might be an odd one...might not....Those that remember I recently had a loud squeal in headset that was caused by a diode in belt driven alternator. I also had a bad voltage regulator that was replaced. However what I thought odd is where my voltage regulator was placed. They took my old one out and put the new one in the exact same way.....suspended with tie straps under the copilots side of the instrument panel. If you were sitting in the copilots seat it would be right above your right leg. Now my cessna and pipers I've owned, the voltage regulator was always in the engine compartment mounted on the firewall. So just wondering if I'm the norm or is this weird. I would think this needs to be mounted and grounded to the firewall.

+1 for gxrpilot’s recommendation to get on Savvy and start with the flight test to baseline your performance. I’m also a member of their analysis pro. It’s great to have someone like kortopates to review your data with. i also run 65% power 99% of time. Sometimes ROP and sometimes LOP depend on mission (best power for speed or best fuel for range). Knowing whether you can run LOP gives you additional capability when planning cross countries. ive tried 75% power a couple times but in my opinion I didn’t think the added fuel flow and speed increase was a big enough impact to coming close to the tail fin impact zone. P.S. notice I also stayed away from cylinder life subject....hah!

Also, If you haven’t already give Precise Flight a call (I’m assuming that’s your SB type) and give then your a/c sn. They will tell you the type series of SB installed if not in your logbook. They will also point you towards the manufacture recommend service items. Sometimes dirt and moisture can clog things up and you may need to pull the cartridges (not hard) clean and lube per the service recommendation. I had same issue my first year of ownership but I pull every other annual now and have not had an issue.

You picked up on my subtle message.....hah! True, but he will work with you on any avionics.

Jesse Saint at Saint Aviation on X35. Hardworking honest team that will work with you. Plus you can visit his museum on site of all his father’s relief flight efforts in South America in the 50’s/60’s. Pretty cool little place.

@milotronand @PT20Jare both the winners. Lost a diode in the belt drive alternator and when turning field switch off resulted in voltage regulator over compensation. All good now!

Hi All, Finally got around to taking pictures and inventory of what I have through a couple panel upgrades. All avionics woke when pulled. P ices are best “guess” so open to offers. Prices do not include shipping so you can pick how you want it sent. KMT-112 Magnetic Azimuth Transmitter: $150 KI-525A Pictorial Navigation Indicator: $650 KA-51A Slaving Accessory: $100 Shadin Fuel Flow Indicator: $350 KT-76A Transponder: $150 KI-227 ADF Indicator: $150 KR-87 ADF: $100

I’ll also take them if Tim decides not to. Also interested in who etched them......