anthonydesmet

Not sure what year J you have but you most probably have vacuum. Take out speed brake box and clear out lines. There is an SB for the speed brakes that suggest servicing at each annual.

I also have the same button.....took out my ADF with Aspen install and ADS-B but have not redone my entire panel yet but will have to come out at some point

Do you still have your ADF. It is to reset your leg time back in the day during ADF approach. If you have an ADF, that button resets the flight timer in the ADF. The ADF automatically starts to time a flight when you take off, so you have a "time in air" measurement for IFR purposes.

ALso check oil drain plug. Saw this happen to a guy at my field a couple years ago.....owner assisted annual: owner did the oil change. Asked mechanic to safety tie the plug after the owner hand tightened plug. Owner thought mechanic would torque tighten plug......mechanic thought owner did because plug was “on”. Long story short and one flight later owner came into hanger and saw about a small pool of oil on floor under engine and on nose tire. Pulled cowl and plug was loose. Thank goodness the mech did safety wire.

Just a thought because I have a 700 also....I.e. there old, old wiring, old probes, old display and electronics, etc. and have had mine go off once for overtemp.....actual temps on CHTs Andy EGTs never crossed threshold then found my default for warnings was set for CHT at 390. after never touching the setup page. Just hadn’t flown in 5 weeks (which never happens). Anyway, you may have the sensor sending to your 700 some spurious inputs. Do you have an actual voltage gauge on your panel you can cross check? Next time I’d leave everything on and watch for a trend? I might be way off but sounds like we both need to upgrade.

Thought I remembered seeing a similar post about a year ago. Found the post I remembered. But not totally your issue but mat help in troubleshooting. Also I highly recommend calling Autopilot Central. They will troubleshoot over the phone with you - walk you through the steps then provide a recommendation. past article: Autopilot central: http://www.autopilotcentral.com/ (918) 836-6418

Not sure from your post but did fluctuation stop after you were all trimmed up? Then greatest percentage answer is yes - you were causing more unstable air with all the summer lifties. I kind of assume this might have been after level off in flight after climb so you had a lot of right trim/slip? Could have caused a differential. But going to stby will help you isolate next time. I’m sure your fine. Just make sure you drain before each flight.

I resurrected this thread in vintage Mooney discussions. GLGA gave me great advice about testing power at the motor. But also thought I’d move the post to modern Mooney since I have a 1980 K with the three position switch...... ”Left Illinois Saturday to return to home base in Florida. Flap extension and retraction during pre-flight worked normally. Flaps on takeoff and retraction airborne worked normally. Used half flaps on landing for high winds and wind gusts. During rollout hit the flap switch to bring them up (and assumed they did) until post flight walk around and noticed flaps still in half position. Turned master back on and cycled switch - no joy and could not here any sign of motor running or engaging...just dead. Cycled flaps circuit breaker and switch again and no joy moving up or down. Physically put pressure with my hands on flaps to see if there was any play pushing up or down but felt normal to pre-flight. I didn't try to force anything and have not had time to go back to hanger and start playing with limit switches but plan to this weekend. Before I do I wanted to get thoughts from the group to help focus my efforts this weekend. limit switches?, flap switch?, motor? Model: 1980 M20K”  switch - normal 1980 J/K switch on console next to cowl flaps.

Resurrecting this thread due to flap issue this past weekend...... Left Illinois Saturday to return to home base in Florida. Flap extension and retraction during pre-flight worked normally. Flaps on takeoff and retraction airborne worked normally. Used half flaps on landing for high winds and wind gusts. During rollout hit the flap switch to bring them up (and assumed they did) until post flight walk around and noticed flaps still in half position. Turned master back on and cycled switch - no joy and could not here any sign of motor running or engaging...just dead. Cycled flaps circuit breaker and switch again and no joy moving up or down. Physically put pressure with my hands on flaps to see if there was any play pushing up or down but felt normal to pre-flight. I didn't try to force anything and have not had time to go back to hanger and start playing with limit switches but plan to this weekend. Before I do I wanted to get thoughts from the group to help focus my efforts this weekend. limit switches?, flap switch?, motor? Model: 1980 M20K switch - normal 1980 J/K switch on console next to cowl flaps.

Thought it would be obvious to most but guess not......I did not imply that an A-4 is the same as flying a Mooney....just meant to be a funny scene setter from an experience in my flying career from a guy that fly anything and land anything he got his hands on.... and yes.....the intent was you don’t land the Mooney like a Cessna as my friend stated....

All good points...and a lot of them so if someone mentioned this I apologize I missed it. remember the elements of a stabilized approach in addition to airspeed are VSI and on glide slope. If your coming over the trees (close to the approach end forcing you high) at 73 to 75 then make a play for the earliest part of the runway I bet your VSI is jumping from -450 +/- to -600/700+ If your making the play for the runway with bringing the throttle back to idle passing over the trees and trying to maintain 73ish, the kinetic energy in a large VSI will translate into more than desired airspeed in the flair thus enabling more flight time. A wise Mooney pilot, former Vietnam A-4 driver told me early on that “a Mooney ain’t no Cessna. Don,t flare the #!##. Fly it into the runway” which I translated as.... get on glide slope, stabilize VSI and capture airspeed with trim and throttle all,the way to touchdown. Everything starts on the downwind - gear down, zero VSI, trimmed to downwind airspeed (95 kts for me) and appropriate abeam distance from the touchdown point. I actually fly hands off for a brief moment to make sure the airplane is configured how I want it. Then base to final hitting my altitude points and airspeed numbers (with trim as flap transition) and maintaining 500ish VSI with throttle. On final - get on glide slope, trim to airspeed, capture VSI with throttle. Over threshold above runway set landing attitude while throttle comes smoothly to idle its much easier (and smoother) to bleed off airspeed with 450 VSI vice 600. if your high on glide slope, high on VSI and on airspeed, you’re not stabilized and your going to float or force it and bounce. Hope this helps...just felt like pontificating......

240 is critical. The highest I have been is 180 to 190 and I spend most of my time between 12K to 16K.

If you can find a 262 it’s a nice package as well. 252 firewall forward for 252 performance with a 231 body. You get all the nice options in the TSIO-360MB that the 252 owners have and don’t have to look for later add on intercooler and auto waste gate plus an adjustable cowl flap. I fly at 12.5gph, CHT,s 340-360 and see 8-10k - 170-177 it’s 12.5 - 180 kts 15.0 - 185 kts FL 180 - 188+ Im with you also - it’s nice to climb and grab 30/40/60 knot tail wind and also be able to stay at 8K +/- out of the wind and fly at 170 kts. Where in Florida are you? I am stationed at X35

Obviously........ I am actually looking for local Orlando or Ocala/Crystal River pilots to weigh in.....I am looking for a recommendation of a doctor no just a list.

Hello Floridians - I am coming up on my medical exam this June and this will be my first one in Florida since I moved from Virginia full time. I also have not found a GP down here. I work in Orlando during the week but we are in Dunnellon outside Ocala quite a bit also. So just wondering if anyone has a doctor they can recommend that also might be a 3rd class medical examiner or is familiar with basic med. the last couple years I have been using the VA but probably time to find a GP.

@bradp I’m in! Please pm me with details.

Thanks Jim - I’ll let you know. I am thinking fiberglass rework also. I have matching paint which is also good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

None- but it was a little frayed with not a good edge to begin with and a little airspeed may have just pulled it more. But it maybe worth having mech swing the gear again. Annual was in October with smooth seal Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just flew down and back from Marion County to Florida Exec and on post flight notice right gear fairing frayed and a small section missing. Soooo, question - probably can get mech to do some fiberglass molding work? Or new/pulled fairing or just file down and tape off? Just wondering what folks have done in the past and cost. Picture attached Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oops, disregard, comment section for FBO finally kicked in and are pretty recent. $12 RON and good service it looks like but if anyone else has anything to add, please do.

Heading to St Pete next Friday and Saturday and looking for a PIREP for Whitted field. Nothing in the comment section of ForeFlight and did a quick search here but nothing recent so just asking about tie downs, service quality and anything I might need to know before I call. Thanks!

Crack not rack*

JRam, call Dan at Lazar salvage. If he can’t he will put you in touch with someone that can. I had a rack in the fitting at the end of my capillary and the guys name that Dan gave me is in my logbook that I can’t get to until this weekend.

@Yetti and @Marauder thanks. I took a short trip out to the hangar yesterday to drop off my move items from my Virginia hangar and did a quick check. No fluid around the calipers and reservoir level was up around the full line. I did notice notice the connection fitting below the reservoir connecting the tube looked a little wet but no sign of a drip. I didn’t have time to pull the exhaust cavity panel but hope to get to it tomorrow to be able to see if I have fluid in and around. Yetti - I did not see anything unusual as far as fluid on the belly but again, just kind of a quick look yesterday. MTF.......

Thanks guys and thanks @Marauderfor the pic. That helps a lot. I will check it out next weekend and keep you posted. I had my oil changed up in Virginia while we were moving so the plane was moved in and out of hanger so it could have started leaking at any point before my preflight. However when I pumped my brakes for taxi they felt fine at that point. I’ll let you know.