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RLCarter

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Everything posted by RLCarter

  1. I don’t think they (aux jacks) are wired through the audio panel
  2. Not sure what the percentage of A&P/IA’s are also pilots , but I’d guess it’s low…. A run up is required and so is a return to service flight which is a SOLO flight. As far as letting them fly it after service I don’t see the issue
  3. Snaps…. Easily removed to clean….. you can get colored snaps that blend in
  4. The one in the 1st post (link)
  5. A friend has 1 he uses on his fixed gear Cessna, works ok but it will “shift” do to the jack not being under the ram that contacts the aircraft. As mentioned, the base isn’t big enough for my liking, but that’s an easy fix
  6. Isn’t that special….. thought there was a reg that parallel runways had to be so far apart to have 2 landing at the same time or ATC couldn’t authorize both to land?
  7. What and who’s policy?
  8. I’m 6’ @220, my wife is 5’8” @135 and we fit fine in our “E”, in fact you’ll be surprised at how far forward you’ll have to move the seat to get full rudder movement. I even fit in the back seat of the short bodied Mooneys.
  9. Cross controls (slip) isn’t the issue, it’s a skid (too much rudder) that will roll you on your back. In a slip the wing opposite the direction of roll will stall 1st, rolling the aircraft level, in a skid it’s just the opposite and wing tucks under very quickly. Base to Final stall/spins are generally caused by overshooting the extended centerline and pulling the nose around with more rudder (skid) which never ends good
  10. When I was getting my E back in the air there were slight marks on both caps, A&P said he’d seen it multiple times
  11. Let me guess, the cotters cut yours
  12. I was going to keep mine and have it rebuilt and install an electronic voltage regulator, the cost was the same as buying the alternator kit with everything needed to swap it out. I opted to convert it over and get smoother voltage
  13. Soda is great for removing paint, no so good for corrosion. Be careful using the RoLocs, the heat from the friction will deform the aluminum skin also. I’ll get slammed for this but I use toothbrush size wooden Stainless Steel brushes on aluminum to remove corrosion. I use these ss brushes to clean aluminum before welding (TIG) as the bristles become worn the brush gets used on corrosion (once they get used for anything else they never get used on aluminum again). The Aluma-Prep is an acid (diluted) that eats the corrosion, on vertical surfaces you can use modeling clay to help control drips and runs of the aluma-prep which is applied with wooden cotton swabs (Q-tips). Use light pressure when scrubbing the aluma-prep withe SS brush, the solution will turn dark until all the corrosion is gone so keep cleaning and re-applying until it’s corrosion free. It’s not hard work but it is tedious….. as a side note aluminum starts oxidizing once it is cleaned so work only a few spots close together at a time, once a spot is cleaned get at least the conversion coat (alodine) applied, primer can be applied latter on (with in a few days)…. Read the instructions on the Aluma-Prep and Alodine, if your a little worried about damaging the surrounding paint with the alums-prep you can dilute it with water, but the weaker the solution the longer it takes to work
  14. @RoundTwo like @M20Doc said above….Don use glass beads on your plane, it will stretch the aluminum in very short order. I’ve used my bead blaster to bend 1”x1”x .125” aluminum angle into an arc, took less than 5 minutes to bow a 7” piece a 1/2” and that was at 35psi… scotch brite (not sandpaper) to remove the bulk, aluma-prep to remove what is left, Alaeddine for the conversion coat, then either epoxy primer or zink-chromate primer…. The other down side of blasting is it work hardens the aluminum and will cause the skin to crack in the future
  15. If replacing the pads make the brakes drag, sounds like you have alignment issues, this is further reinforced by have having to replace pads at every annual
  16. I had a wooden dowel with hook on it, could reach through the storm window with right arm and hold the sample cup under the drain
  17. When I had a rear jack get grounded out it took out ALL the jacks (no intercom at any station)… I’m going to go ahead and ask… is the pilot/co-pilot isolate “on”?
  18. I wouldn’t think foam would pass a burn test, if it ever lit off the fumes would get ya before anything
  19. It’s a 50/50 shot, they just need to decide if they are going to need a pry bar or a hammer……
  20. I would do 1/2 turns (180°) and re-check all 3, but that’s just me
  21. I rarely use a funnel on anything using this method of pouring oil...
  22. Not being an A&P I do, but like @M20Doc mentioned, they take a lot for granted… I generally print the procedure out along with the parts diagram (both manuals are on an iPad as well). I had the FAA walk in while I was pulling the last gear leg out, a little worried at first but all in all it was a non-event, jokingly I told them Mooney needed more pictures
  23. It’s next to the Cessna option
  24. Forgot about that, even though I had to get 2.2hrs more dual and used a TAA 172
  25. That’s a lot of 1/2ths…..lol
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