RLCarter
Basic Member-
Posts
4,088 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Media Demo
Events
Everything posted by RLCarter
-
Florida law: Sales Tax for parts and repair services
RLCarter replied to Mooney-Shiner's topic in Florida Mooney Flyers
Texas has sales tax on parts, labor can be either taxable or non-taxable. Rule of thumb on non-taxable labor was if it had a license plate (registration) labor wasn’t tax, BUT, if you took something off and that assembly was repaired it was now taxable labor. This was on any vehicle, automotive, motorcycle, watercraft, etc….. both 6v and 12v batteries had an excise tax of $2.00 and $3.00 respectively based on capacity, so some smaller batteries were exempt. If I remember correctly I had 28 different categories set up in the software to keep it all straight and for monthly reporting to the state -
3’ of 3/8” cotton rope lives in a ziploc bag in the spare parts cabinet ….. I’ve had 2 stick in 1500+ hrs…. Seen several others, generally I can get them free by pushing with my thumbs and twisting with rocker arm removed….. the rope never pushes straight on the valve and bending a valve is very possible ….
-
Do they work correctly then after a few days start to bleed off when deployed and and flap lever (cabin) is in the “flaps down” position?
-
Here is my .02…. It’s possible in turbulence that the inertia type could activate pinning you in the seat, where the adjustable type you could loosen the stap if needed the tighten back. Inertia type retract out of the way when the belt isn’t in use and the other just hang there, they both attach to the airframe the same but the inertia reel could possibly fail, the reel itself has bulk to it. I went with the adjustable shoulder strap which I can loosen in seconds and cinch down just as easy…either is better than nothing, just look at the Pro’s and Con’s for each and buy accordingly…
-
Is M20C brake bleeding possible?
RLCarter replied to Kelpro999's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Like @A64Pilot mentioned above, the trick is to push enough fluid through (with out stopping) from the bottom (caliper). I've done mine several times and never had an issue side note: I use an oiler (shown below), and clear tubing between the oiler and caliper so I can make sure I'm not pumping air into the system, I also use clear tubing (4 foot or so) from the reservoir to a catch can on the hangar floor, laying under the plane you can watch for the air bubbles to stop showing in the tube going to your catch can, a few more pumps and close off the bleeder...keep the fluid moving up and out until no more bubbles -
Don’t talk about the D block issue in this thread
RLCarter replied to Shadrach's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
You’re not alone -
Mine is mounted under the wing in an inspection panel in front of the RH MLG
-
Conti’s seem more prone to Carb Ice than Lycomings. Some say you don’t need carb heat on carbureted Mooneys, some say partial carb heat. My take is ANY carbureted aircraft the carb heat comes on (FULL) any time there is visible moisture, if your needing to run carb heat for an extended period adjust your mixture accordingly. I fly a carbureted 172 and use carb heat year round on low power settings (<2000rpm) ie landings. I’ve had carb ice 3 times (with Conti’s) and it will get your attention, especially low and slow
-
@bixmooney this might help
-
-
I made jacks for the mains that can be pinned at 1” intervals, I lift the nose with an A-frame and chain hoist (can’t bleed down) with nylon strap around the engine mount, once up in the air I use an adjustable tail stand I made. With 4 points it’s rock solid and I sleep well knowing it can be left jacked up and there is nothing to bleed down
-
I had a 7.3 for 20 years, the 1st gen were an International engine, 300k on it when I sold it with no issues. The older Chrysler/ Dodge has a very unique sound when starting, by design the engine would crank over with the ignition dead to help build oil pressure before firing off.. I’ve torn down engines that haven’t run in years and the oil pumps still have oil in them along with the rod / mains & cam bearings. Pre oiling an engine before firing it up can’t hurt just as pre filling an oil filter but I doubt either is necessary.
-
I’ve always pre filled to the top in one pour, then let it sit, most of the oil is absorbed into the filter media and you can turn it upside down and very little if any will come out before you get screwed on. I’ve never looked but if Aircraft engines are like all other engines, the filter is on the return side of the system, that being said pre filling or not wouldn’t matter as far as oil pressure on start up. The only engine that I know of that has to be pre filled is the 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel, it has a high pressure oil pump that fires the fuel injectors, if that pump cavitates the injectors won’t fire (open), other diesels might be the same .. not sure
-
I’ve done mine a couple of times, get comfy, get the flange started in the groove then it’s a slight twisting action to work it all the way around
-
During my transition training in my E, we did power on and power off stalls. I had read on MS that Mooneys lose a lot of altitude, so all the initial stalls were done above 5000agl and 75% power for power on stalls (65% is allowed in the ACS). As training progressed I would routinely do full power on stalls at 3000agl, to me it wasn’t much different than stalling the 172. Fast forward to June 25th, 2022 while having lunch with my current CFI and a DPE (was my CFI) I was told that today your going up with the DPE and knock out my spin training in the 172….. After a little ground school, verifying we would be in Utility category and removing/securing everything loose in the cabin we were airborne. I was amazed at how fast we got to 5000agl in a 145hp 172 on a hot June day in South Texas, or maybe I was just wanting to prolong the lesson. He demonstrated the 1st one which caught me a little off guard, but not too bad. I ended up doing a total of 10 spin entries and recoveries, power on and power off entries, turns left and right with both skid and slip entries, next was a right climbing turn (accelerated stall) skidding and then one slipping. He saved the best for last, left climbing turn with full left rudder, it rolled over on its back a lot faster this time and around we went, one more and I’m done, climbing left turn and just before it stalled full right rudder (which stalls the raised wing, rolling you over the top). I thought I was ready for it, after all I had just done one to the right…wrong, it rolled over the top so fast I swear when I recovered me and the CFI had swapped seats…. All in all it was an eye opener on just how fast things can happen once you get to that point. side note: I did my spin training from the right seat… oh, and I had Chili for lunch, no issues but had I’d know what they had in store for me I would have ordered differently
-
M20C ignition key replacement
RLCarter replied to Don Gates's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I had my door and baggage door rekeyed to match the ignition switch (I hated needing 3 keys), didn’t have an issue having several copies made -
The older “V-Tail” Bonanzas would go outside the envelope after fuel was used, so it was possible to start the flight within limits the land outside of the limits.. when I purchased my E, I had a NEW weight & balance done, once I had the numbers I played around with different scenarios and as long as you stayed at or below gross it was hard to get out the CG limits…
-
Unfortunately I’m out of the 4130 and don’t plan on ordering any time soon….. look back in the thread on page 2, dimensions are on a pdf
-
I could taxi from my hangar to the fuel pumps (1/4 mile, maybe) and the restart would require a “Hot Start” procedure.
-
FAA shows it to be a 1965 which would have the square windows, short rudder and cam-locks on the cowl, which can also be seen in the photos…or at least my E had all that…dig’n the glove box
-
65? Damn…… we keep ours at 72, not sure our 2 year old AC could get it down to 65 in the summer (101 today) and if it could I’m not sure I would want the electric bill. I can tell ya at 65°F I wouldn’t walk around in my drawers for long
-
It’s now a sellers market, just remember if you sell to upgrade you are now the buyer…..
-
2 weeks into the mystery metal and still no real answer, personally I wouldn’t have bothered with the metal analysis. No mater what or where it came from, it isn’t going to be good. An engine tear down and inspection will give you the answer. Even if it turns out to be top-end I would pull the oil sump and flush everything really good and honestly at that point I’d split the cases and do a field overhaul.
-
Not that it would matter…. It’s an M20-C converted to an M20-D (fixed gear)? Check with a Mooney Service Center and see if the parts are available from the factory and if not Mooney should be able to tell you what alloy was used so they can can be fabricated
-
When I purchased my “E” it had been sitting for several years. Once I opened it ALL up for my A&P /IA for the prebuy, I made a list of everything I thought it needed and then compared it with his…. Working several hours a day (which will turn up things as well) and spending just north of 10k on part it was ready to fly. I wasn’t looking for a project but it was on the field and I was willing to roll the dice.