RLCarter

Since selling my E I don’t make it onto MS as often as I did…. Is it just me or has MS lost some momentum?

Just a question…but isn’t an external speaker and a hand mic a requirement for the IFR cert? The only reason I ask is I’ve had several people that were looking for a mic for that reason

Mine was 950ish…. Ended up redoing the W&B to get a number I could trust, all the superseded (6) sheets had errors and the mystical current W&B sheet was MIA. Some on here will advise against doing a re-weighing as it generally is heavier than stated. I had standard tanks (52 gal) which was longer than I wanted to fly..lol

Those probably aren’t available, they plug holes used either during the welding process and/or if they coated the inside of the tubing with linseed oil

Not sure about the later yokes, but the older yokes uses a taper pin and a set screw. My guess is the taper pin was over tightened to correct a yoke that was loose (rocks side to side) when the set screw was the one that needed attention.

Regs doesn’t spell out to a full stop for the 10 on the commercial, I did mine to a FULL stop and logged it that way, got my night currency and no issues for the commercial side

Kinda sounds like a valve clicking as it closes? I would pull the valve covers as mentioned above and see if the sound changes location, watch the valves to see if one sticks/hangs, if you can’t see anything then remove 1 (one) push rod at a time to isolate which valve on which cylinder needs looked at, if it’s still clicking with all the push rods removed remove the cam gear, you should be able to spin the cam and listen/feel for the click. If it still clicks with the valve train completely disconnected it’s in the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons). Will be interesting to see what is found, so keep us informed

Previous years of the FAR/AIM make for Good chocks………. . Tie it down good, Oshkosh tends to always have at least one day of storms

Couple questions …. Interior shows missing co-pilot seat and left hand upper side panel (insulation showing), title says all the speed mods, photos shows stock windscreen, also no mention of price…

Having a bad there? LOL

I replaced mine when I first purchased it….. mine were one on each side of mount and was a test of my patience getting them installed with little to no preload

There is probably 45 minutes or so before the work actually starts, but still plenty warm to have oil drain……. Being a motorcycle mechanic for 40+ years kinda teaches you to let things cool just a tad before draining the oil, but also get accustom to overly warm things

Draining overnight has never made any sense to me, you can let it drain for weeks after it’s just a drip and there will still be oil in the hoses, cooler and engine. I plan oil changes after a flight (eliminates running for just an oil change), once back in the hangar the cowling(s) are removed and the oil drained, while it’s draining the filter is removed and cut open for inspection, if all looks good a new filter is primed, installed and safety wired. By this time the oil has stopped flowing and just a few drips every now and then. Close off the drain and fill it with oil, drag it back out for a test run and check for leaks, back in the hangar and reinstall the cowling(s) and I’m good for another 50 hours…. The Mooney takes less time (30 minutes) than 172, but either one I’m done in less than 3 hours

If you’re new to K&N air filters READ the directions on the Recharge Kit, also read the Continued Airworthy requirements….. Best advice is DO NOT used compressed air, it will ruin it

Down here, approach will let you do “Local IFR”, give them the list of airports and approaches, holds or intercepts…. You can do it under VFR or IFR. We generally depart KTXW, approach into KHRL, approach into KBRO, if it’s not too busy shoot the Back Course back at KHRL, approach at KMFE and the VOR-A back into KTXW… 1-1/2 hrs maybe 2

Contact a MSC, or do an owner produced part

It doesn’t say use 91/96, it says Never use Aviation fuel lower than that… 100LL is most of us only choice

All I’d add to what’s been said already is buy the small cheap Harbor Freight moving blankets (3 minimum) to wrap the blade tips…..getting it there and not damaging it is easier than getting back, that’s where you don’t to scratch the fresh paint after overhaul ….. I would have the prop flange looked at by an A&P/IA…. Looks to have corrosion that needs to addressed before you need a new crankshaft

I’ve seen this on motorcycles before, correct torque is key but still takes an act of Congress to remove

It’s a simple tow bar, make or have one made.. if there is another Mooney at your location, copy theirs…… I will add that the bar that goes into the nose wheel truss IS NOT 90° …. It’s slightly less by design so it won’t slip out while turning

I’ll be honest, I haven’t read every post in this thread. That being said, I personally never stretch my fuel and try and switch tanks well with gliding distance to an airport, I’m just not in that big of a hurry

Mine was Aeroquip 303, both in front of and behind the firewall

I found very similar ball bearing under my aircraft on this floor…. Over the next few weeks I found several others…. Seems a caster was coming apart on my creeper…… being on top of the wing makes it really odd, I would definitely look at the hangar door

Why / how are yours failing? Pretty sure the one on my 1965 E has never been replaced

Hose is cheap and they are easily made in house with the mandrel (s)