Culver LFA

I just checked my medical info and it’s updated, my appointment was on the 5th so that’s pretty quick.

Well, I guess the Executive 21 didn’t get rear heat ducts. Heat is over rated anyways. At least I don’t need 27’ of sceet, now I can make do with 6’ (@ $7/ft)! It’s 1.25” ID (-5) if anyone is looking for it in the future. Looks like that rear heat feature was on earlier models, 65-66 C, D & E

I have none of that business going to the back. This is a 67 F, maybe that’s on the later models?

Hmm, I’ll have to check that out. I haven’t seen any hoses to the back? It’s on the jacks now with all the interior and exterior panels off, where are they routed? If I could get heat to the backseat my wife would be very happy! I’m replacing everything with orange sceet, those go on sooo nice.

Not expecting a miracle here but I think I figured out why my defroster hasn’t worked since 1982... Half the hose material is still in the airplane, I’ll have to remove that debris with the shop vac!

I was in a group buy for the tailbeacon at $1725, I think there was 20-21 people in. Unfortunately, since there is no approval date on the tailbeacon I decided to cancel the order and went with a Stratus ESG. I figured the extra expense was worth the international capability (1090), having a new transponder replacing my functional (but for how long) KT76, and I can claim the FAA rebate in time. Not knowing when the tailbeacon would be approved was another big factor. My avionics shop gave me a great deal on the ESG and, since he is absolutely slammed with work, allowed owner assist which saved a bunch of labor $$$.

There is always ebay. Good thing about a Mooney firewall forward is that you will never see the dent, there is no room. Weld the hole shut, prime/paint and then put the Adel clamp for the starter lead where the dent is :-)

On the intake runner? It is usually clamped on with a funky double sided tape gasket between the fitting and the pipe. The gasket has probably hardened to concrete consistency over the years making the two parts one, you can break them apart but you probably wont be excited to see what is hidden underneath. The pipe has to be 'flattened' to match the fitting plate, it's probably not pretty.

There is an AD on the early versions of the Precise Flight System. I just removed my system (that was installed in 1989) after discovering it. http://www.thevacsource.com/pdfs/20051105.pdf http://www.thevacsource.com/pdfs/Complying with AD 99-24-10 or 2005-11-05.pdf

One of the mechanics on the restoration team used to own my Mooney. I had stopped at the airport the few years ago, ran into town with the courtesy car and when I returned I was told to go directly to the hangar (like there was a problem). I walked in and then saw the twin Mustang and just about fell over. They laughed at me, then we talked about 9644M for a while like it was the coolest airplane made, then back to looking at the Mustang. Good memories. That airplane is an absolute amazing thing of beauty.

Here it is: https://mooneyspace.com/topic/13162-shower-of-sparks/?do=findComment&comment=170694

@Mooneymite My memory thinks MooneyMite had posted the part numbers in the past, I’m searching the archives now...

Shoot, obsolete....I’d be happy to have a dme in my airplane!

@65eTurbo Does the dme display work or do you just need a lens?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GRAY-Faceplate-KN62-KN62A-lens-display-KN64-kn-62-64-USA-Made-/251981036205?nav=SEARCH or https://www.ebay.com/itm/Faceplate-VHF-KN62-KN62A-lens-display-KN64-made-in-the-USA-/263328327587?nav=SEARCH

I’ve got one here with that is 5/8”, and another that is 7/8”, so it might be tough to go off of what others have installed.

Good people here! When he says free he means it! Skates97 would not accept payment even for shipping so a donation has been made to Mooneyspace. Thank you @Skates97 & Mooneyspace!

Yes please!

I'd like the j-bar, up and down locks. Same paypal ok, N83933?

I did almost 1900 miles in 23.8 hrs (3 days) in my Cadet, another great Mooney design!

@FFpilotChris There is a Stratus 1S that was just posted on 'Mooney Pilots' Facebook page, says make offer. Are you that group?

Actually your plate/bracket is correctly oriented, I found a picture to refresh my memory which I’ve attached. There are pins installed on the other side that lock into the two holes in the cable housing, you should not be able to move the bracket fore/aft when the clamps are tightened. If you have moved the bracket to adjust the switch then the bracket is no longer locked into the cable housing. The bracket needs to be installed correctly then the switch adjusted.

Thank you and really great job Jimmy! It looks like a ton of work and experience went into creating this, thanks for sharing.

OK, (looking at your picture and judging from the screws on the clamps holding the throttle housing to the bracket pointing in different directions, also the missing washers on all the fasteners), I think that someone has been in there and it is likely that the problem is how your throttle switch/bracket is mounted to the cable. I can't tell exactly what it is especially only seeing the back side of the bracket. Can you get a picture from under the panel, down where the ram air cable is, pointing up towards the throttle cable/gear switch? Some questions I have are: 1) The bracket seems to be installed in the correct orientation but it appears that the dimples are facing the wrong direction (out instead of in)? Not sure how this is possible but something does not look correct there. 2) Can you determine if the throttle cable has been replaced before? If so, is it a McFarlane, a modified Aircraft Spruce cable, or what is it? It is possible that the "window" for the switch was cut in the wrong location which has exceeded the limits of the switch adjustment (slots). 3) It's late and I have to think about this some more, but if you attempted to correct this by adjusting the throttle cable at the fuel injection servo as you suggested, you would be lengthening the cable end at the servo to move the cable back at the handle end. This may then line up the throttle switch (which is currently adjusted to the limit) but I think you will then run into an issue where the throttle knob will not be all the way to the panel when you go 100% wide open throttle. This does not seem like a good solution to me, it's backwards thinking. I think that the cable end at the fuel injection servo should be adjusted to length with the throttle knob all the way in for full travel first, then idle will fall where it will when the throttle is pulled all the way back, and finally the gear switch can then be adjusted.

The top cowl/avionics panel won’t help unless you have Go go gadget arms. You’ll have to reach up from under the panel with your other hand. Having the seats out will help tremendously so you can at least be semi comfortable laying in the cabin floor with the trim wheel in your xyz while your left hand cramps up into a knot. I love it so much I’m laying there now! Here is a video for those that want to see what they are hearing behind the panel when they pull the throttle back. 026EA042-7B66-4F18-9897-1880D7B8C7FC.MOV