ArtVandelay

Could the button be broken?

I did all 3 when I had overhauled the engine, I did the removing and install myself (AP did the connecting to engine which he found challenging ?). The tricky part of the throttle cable was having the notch cut for the gear warning and getting it properly adjusted, my prop and mixture weren’t connected correctly either. They should be adjusted so there’s about 1/4” left at full forward, and should not go all the way to the stop.

I usually do the troubleshooting to prevent “let’s keep replacing parts till the problem goes away” routine. I will pull the defective part, send it out to be overhauled or order replacement which I have shipped back to my AP who puts it back together. I would also inspect what the AP does even if you never do the work yourself.

Trying to get down to KAEG from east will either require speed brakes or some 360s.

Wire? What’s next, cash? I would not do business with a shop that doesn’t take a credit card.

Yeah, it’s expensive, don’t remember exact price, call LASAR if you’re interested. Seems odd the K and J trim screws are different and Ks don’t need it?

My trim wheel is small and there’s significant friction probably because of the trim motor (unlike the 172), so adjustments are slow. It’s just easier to not trim to “hands off”.

It’s very expensive mod for my J, new trim screw required, something like $2500 for the parts.

Push hard? I have electric trim, I had it jam when I did full up so I can try landing hands off…won’t do that again.

Do you have the fix for trim jamming problem?

What kind of paint did you use?

Tried using a hammer? Might want to lube the tracks as well.

You can tint the rear windows, not the pilots side or front windows.

How old is the ignition harness? They do deteriorate, with automobiles it usually shows up first when weather is wet, high humidity.

What are the EGT temperatures?

I lean to 150°F ROP on climb, on takeoff with full mixture it’s closer to 250°, but start leaning once above pattern altitude.

That can make go arounds a handful as you’ll need to fight it till you get it re-trimmed. I spilt the difference, also prevents the problem of the trim binding in full trim position.

The springs (bungees) make the J elevators control feel heavy except for small movements, it would be nice to use weaker springs. I had mine lubed and checked for binding.

Agreed, you can get a package that includes Aera, GP upgrade, and GTN.

I’d open the battery panel and check if you have moisture on the inside as well. If yes, I would invest in a dehumidifier.

You’re not comparing apples to apples since MGW is different.

I see he’s taught you to post with bullet points. ;-) Does he talk in person like that?

There’s no reason to touch the gear warning system. I would try pulling the CB for the gear warning, then the CB for GFC 500 and then the G5s CBs separately and see if what happens is what you expect.

If I repeatedly fist bump the hatch, the handle will start to open up, but stops when it sticks out a 1/8” or so. For everyone I would suggest doing this test to insure yours doesn’t continue to open up.

There’s more to a J vs F than just aerodynamics improvements. As mentioned above cowling and belly panel changes make removal a 5 minute exercise. The Js engine intake was vastly improved to the point the ram air became superfluous and was eventually removed. Muffler was improved. Stylistic changes like wing tips, fairings were added. Later years got the max gross weight increased. Needed because above and fully articulated seats added to the empty weight. Etc etc. 77 was a transition year, they still have the Fs engine quadrant, makes ingress and egress a bit more cumbersome because it sticks out. Js serial numbers start with 24-xxxx, first thing to check make sure you getting what is being advertised. Just because a woman wears a bikini, doesn’t make her a swimsuit model.