Ragsf15e

Only if they’re vfr - then it’s definitely required. If you’re ifr, you don’t need to hear that, your “clearance is clearance”.

The thing with fine wires is they last much longer than massives. They cost more up front, but I’ve just started replacing a few at annual that were showing high (or low) resistance. They were still running well. They all made it 800 hours, and some are still going! You’re gonna buy a couple sets of massive at least in that time.

Imo, the short bodies are perfect for 2 people traveling because they have the same front seat room as all the others. They might even be a smidge lighter/faster? I travel routinely with my wife and 2 kids, so I want the backseat leg room, but if it was just 2 of us, an E would be just fine. Well, actually, I do like the 64 gallon tanks on the F. We do a 525nm trip to grandmas that would be difficult with an hour reserve in a short body since they have less fuel. I usually try to depart with 55gallons on that trip depending on winds, although it can be done with less gas if you go high and or lean of peak.

Actually I agree with you in that I wouldn’t plan a route through a restricted area since you probably won’t get it anyway and it could be hot. However, if there’s one in your way, it never hurts to ask if it’s “cold”. If it is, atc is allowed to clear you through. The one near Yakima i mentioned, R-6714, even has its status on the Yakima atis so you have an idea. Many of them are hot a lot of the time though, so don’t count on going through.

Are you sure? Do you mean P area, not R? Restricted Areas can be cold when not being used and ATC can let you through. Prohibited areas on the other hand, they can’t. Example R-5306A on the east coast is typically cold on weekends and ATC can clear you through. Out west I have to file around R-6714, but when it’s cold they clear me direct destination right through it.

I like my F, but I only have a few hours in a J to compare. The E/F are pretty simple, so that’s a maintenance bonus. However, they are older and possibly have more chance of corrosion, so a good prebuy is really important. The F has the same backseat room as the J/K, but the E is barely suitable for smaller adults. If you have 3 people, the backseat passenger can sit sort of sideways. There really aren’t any weird handling issues with either and they have good useful load. Es have less fuel (I think 52gal) vs 64 for Fs. No issues with the IO-360A1A. It has two independent mags, so that can allow for an EI. Youll see 140-150kts cruise at 6000-10000’ at 10-11 gph. Maybe 140 if you want to use lean of peak at 9 gph. Spare parts are available but a few specific ones are harder to get. That’s the same for other mooney models. Mooney is producing parts but some are long time.

Hopefully they are relatively Mooney Saavy because sometimes there are issues bleeding the brakes. There are many “techniques” on this too… it brings out all kind of suggestions. If your shop has smart skilled people they will probably be fine. If there are issues with squishy brakes afterwards, ask here and we’ll get you squared away.

Yes, but is the ipad capable of cell service, even if you don’t have a sim card in it or cell service enabled? Because the models that are capable of cell also have a separate gps. Some models do have a separate gps, but all the cell capable ones have it. I have an ipad mini without gps and it only provides position when connected to the internet or an external gps in the airplane. airplane mode doesn’t disable gps reception.

What fuel options are at the small private one? If you’re going in/out pretty light and that forces a fuel stop, the bigger airport makes more sense?

@mikey757 if you do find it doesn’t have gps, it’s not hard to get an external one which will also likely get you adsb in traffic and weather on the ipad.

I’m not an ipad superstar, but I’m pretty sure it can use “other location services” when connected to your home internet. It’s using other devices on your network like your phone or known network locations. Try it outside your home not connected to your network. If it’s not the cell version it likely doesn’t have gps.

As @haissaid, your ipad needs gps. The ones that are cellular capable definitely have gps. If no gps, then you need external like a scout, sentry, strus, etc. what avionics do you have installed, some of them will provide gps to an ipad (gtx345 being one).

Wage rate up to $150 (down here) or temp down to -10c up there?

Definitely want to get that closed and get your 0.5 knots back!

That panel looks awesome and very capable! One question- g3x doesn’t normally have a backup battery, only the g5 does. Is there some kind of aftermarket backup that you have?

Yeah but you provided the excellent documentation which I was too lazy to get!

Yes flt plan page. Push fpl, i have ete and eta set as my data fields. If you push menu there, you might have other data fields as options. Push fpl again to exit. If ete/eta isn’t on the flight plan page, push menu on that page and select your desired data fields for display. This is me giving advice based on using mine, I didn’t look it up, so I’m not saying other data fields are definitely available on fpl page but they might be. @mikey757

I was reading to escape my 7 year olds for a few minutes. I’m going back to them.

I was kind of assuming alternator since it’s an F. Were older Fs made with generators originally?

Just to piggyback… if you do the AI as a Gi-275 (which is a great idea), also do the hsi. They have built in redundancy for Attitude and eliminate the zillion moving parts and failure modes in the current hsi. The 2 gi-275s should be below your $15,000… but probably close. Do both, do it once, enjoy the airplane for a long time.

Do what Skip said for sure. Theres a Zeftronics Troubleshooting guide around here or on their website too. Skip, I thought the ts guide said to expect ~0.5 to 1v less than bus voltage on the field wire with just the master on? @TuomoMooneyFlying one thing to know, many mechanics are not that great at troubleshooting electrical problems. The tests @PT20J outlined, are very easy to do but most will skip them and start replacing parts. I would definitely recommend educating yourself and maybe even helping or doing a few tests to help narrow down the problem. It can get kind of expensive quickly without fixing anything. The system is not that hard though and there are people on here who can easily help you get it right.

Doubtful. It would likely take significant draw at idle. How old is the battery? Has it been capacity checked?

He asked about a doctor possibly signing off on basic med since he’d just had a physical a month before (or something to that effect) and was roundly castigated. Disagreement is ok, but he got dog piled on.

I also have an F and mine shows about 13.8 in idle, 14v at normal power above that. Since you have an f, I assume alternator and not generator? What draw do you have on? Lots of old (non led) lights, pitot heat, landing light, etc might cause this… We need @PT20J…

I have one of my injectors that does similar. We always do the best we can, but definitely don’t over torque it. The hole being down may dribble a little fuel once in a while, But that’s not the end of the world. We did make a sharpie line on the opposite flat from the A Because what the heck, you can’t see the A when it’s pointed straight down and it’s a tiny space so you can’t look under there! The sharpie line on the opposite flat makes it easier to see how close you are.