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Ragsf15e

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Everything posted by Ragsf15e

  1. Ragsf15e
    Does anyone actually intend to “continuously” run at 2000 rpm anyway?
  2. Ragsf15e
    Or you could also put in the vor as the active gps waypoint and fly the arc in gps mode on the g5 (using gps as a legal substitute for the vor). Then you will have the gps distance displayed on the top right corner of the g5. Depending on how your g5 is set up, you could possibly have a bearing pointer to the raw vor data at the same time (by displaying nav 2 as the #2 bearing pointer). On an ils however, we have to be in vloc after the faf, so don’t have the option to stay in the gps mode to get the waypoint distance on the g5.
  3. Ragsf15e
    The ones with the 201 windshield and other minor speed mods might add a little bonus for the buyer, but price similar to an unmodified one. The few with a 201 cowling are more rare and actually adds a few knots, so that might cost a smidge more to buy. None of the mods is going to significantly affect the price like a runout engine, fancy avionics, or new paint and interior might.
  4. Ragsf15e
    I highly recommend using the “Maggie Harness” from New Horizons. https://www.newhorizonsmaggieaircraftignitionsystems.com There are two possibilities for harness routing on an io-360. You should verify exactly which cylinders (top or bottom) your left mag currently fires and then call them.
  5. Ragsf15e
    Left. Ditched the sos.
  6. Ragsf15e
    The hard part of installing one is taking out the interior to run a wire directly to the battery. Otherwise it was pretty easy. I helped with the interior, but my mechanic just read the directions, installed it and fired it up. Worked fine. The electroair is a whole different animal for install.
  7. Ragsf15e
    I really like the Surefly as it’s a more simple design, but your point is very valid. One of its best attributes is maintenance free for 2000 hours, but I’ve only had it on for about 350. It has been trouble free so far and the advance timing provides slightly better ignition at higher altitude cruise. It was pretty easy to install. But yes, it’s not a huge improvement from a mag.
  8. Ragsf15e
    Yeah, agreed. I was thinking it would be nice to display gps distance to the next waypoint. When an approach is loaded in the gps, it does display this distance to the next waypoint (could be faf or some other point depending on what you loaded) until it switches to vloc. Then you have to look at the gps to get that distance information.
  9. Ragsf15e
    I’ll be interested to see the answers here. Just the other day I was flying an ils and the g5/gns430w combo had already switched to vloc. I wanted to know distance to the faf and caught myself looking at the top right of the g5, but there was nothing there… I do not think it displays dme to the gps nav point in vloc but I don’t know for certain. I do have both bearing pointers set however- one to the vor and one to gps point. That is occasionally useful.
  10. Ragsf15e
    I was taught bank angle equal to degrees of correction required. Obviously you don’t actually think “2 degrees off heading, so i need 2 degree bank…” but that’s the guideline. Very small bank, just pressure on the yoke for very small correction. The airplane should stay coordinated though. If you’re 10 degrees off heading, you don’t need a 30 degree bank turn, 10 degree bank would work just fine.
  11. Ragsf15e
    This makes more sense. You might have options too if it’s just the gears you’re looking for. New ones might not be available, but there should be some in a salvage bird that are airworthy. Might take some looking. There are two different types that could work. The newer ones are 40:1 and desired.
  12. Ragsf15e
    I have that one and it’s been fine for 9 years and about 800 hours. Hope i didn’t just jinx myself.
  13. Ragsf15e
    Another option in case it gets too distracting and you need 100% attention on flying is to squawk 7600. Maybe not pretty, but follow the IFR routing/altitude hierarchy until you land at your destination or become vmc and can land somewhere else. People have crashed focusing on communicating when they shouldn’t.
  14. Ragsf15e
    Ahhhh, that explains it.
  15. Ragsf15e
    Interesting that it only lasted a couple years? What’s wrong with the motor? Is something wrong with the gear causing this problem? Usually the motors last a very long time…
  16. Ragsf15e
    If you want to be super thorough, put something over the fuel vents too. Mud daubbers like it in there and that will ruin your day. Use something bright enough that you see it during preflight, because leaving it on will also ruin your day.
  17. Ragsf15e
    I think this part of @wombat answer is really important: Additionally, the installer of a part must accomplish the work in such a manner and use materials of such quality that the product or appliance worked on will be at least equal to its original or properly altered condition with respect to the qualities affecting airworthiness. Find a shop willing to use this to install newer/better.
  18. Ragsf15e
    The levels aren’t very high, so that’s good, but if they are definitely correlated to opening the heat, that’s bad. Even with low levels, I’d check that out. I show zero ppm in flight even with the heat on. On the ground, I see 10-20 depending on winds and which way I’m pointing. Some people see a little in climb but then settle down to zero in cruise. You might want to see exactly where/when yours is climbing.
  19. Ragsf15e
    No, and there’s some debate on this. The “eyeball joint” that the shaft slides on is touchy. Initially mooney suggested silicone, then they said leave it dry. Either way, you need that shaft to slide very smoothly (both pilot and copilot) or it can cause fluctuations. After a while they will get dirty, so using silicone is mostly about cleaning them. I wouldn’t recommend anything with oil in it as it may cause dirt to stick and eventually make it worse. Lube it, wipe it down, make sure there’s no “sticktion”. Good luck!
  20. Ragsf15e
    Good luck. Possibly it wasn’t water in there. Occasionally silicon lube on both control shafts to make sure they are sliding through the instrument panel very smoothly could help too. Spray on, and wipe it really clean.
  21. Ragsf15e
    It’s a tiny spring loaded push button. Look for a small metal “button” barely protruding below the aircraft skin. There’s one on the left wing root for the pitot too. Just push and it should drain.
  22. Ragsf15e
    That’s exactly what mine looked like the one time it stranded me. It took rebuilding the left brake master cylinder. New o rings might be fine.
  23. Ragsf15e
    Yes, mine works fine without an antenna as well. There is a selection in the configuration menu that turns the internal gps on/off. Mine is connected to my 430w and doesn’t have an external antenna, so it’s supposed to be off, however… the g5 will accept the best gps solution it has available. I want to say @PT20J asked garmin about this, but I thought they can also use pitot input to help them stay aligned if gps goes out?
  24. Ragsf15e
    I had that happen after an annual at a well known msc. They did install a new trim torque tube, so maybe understandable? I noticed on the preflight that that paint line at the tail looked different- the tail was at a different angle. They disagreed. Luckily i was ready for it at rotation because she tried really hard to nose up like a Concorde!
  25. Ragsf15e
    I think I’ve read of a few people on here that have gone with just the 2 servos. Especially for the older models that didn’t already have electric trim. The g5 (g3x) will annunciate “trim” kind of like an stec 30a. I do agree, by the time you’ve got someone opening up the airplane and installing a gfc500, go for the trim servo at least.
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