Ragsf15e

IO-360A1A: I fly regularly and use both LOP and Rop depending on the circumstances. I’m usually between 7-12000’, so 60-75% power. I have gamis and the spread is very tight - like 0.1-0.3gph. I also know the typical cht order when leaned for my engine (1,4 cool, 2,3 warmer with 3 warmest). Left mag is SF with advance, right is 300hr bendix. Tempest fine wires all around. Power set to wide open, Ram air on, 2500rpm. So flying home from KFHR yesterday at 9,500 (~11,000 DA), i lean to peak… except #2 won’t peak. It peaks way late. Like 0.5 gph late. Noticeably later than usual. I set the engine to just barely LOP, like #2 is pretty much at peak and everything settles except 2 has the same cht as 3 and it’s egt is much higher, like it’s at peak and 3 is more lop. Cruised for a while, tried again, same result. Of course, I was crossing the Cascades with my family on board. Maybe 10 minutes later, with zero input from me, I see egt on 2 slowly decline to about where it should be and then cht slowly follows to be a normal amount less than #3. Ff stays exactly the same. I didn’t do an inflight mag check but i will next time. what can make a cylinder peak later than normal and the cht and egt read high? It seems that the cylinder would have to be richer than normal?

Mine is very similar. Causes an alarm at 30psi, normally fluctuates between 20-30. Annoying, but (unfortunately) I learned to ignore it. A snubber might be a good idea just so you don’t have to start ignoring engine gages.

Makes you almost wish you had FI for the cold starts, right?!

And who can climb into their Mooney wearing a stiff wool suit and tie?! In Texas heat no less?!

That was pretty standard for Air Force lieutenants when others in the squadron went tdy… add some 3 hole punches, books and other office supplies to the luggage if it was laying around. Bonus points, once i saw the top 3 tell a lt to remove all the underwear from a bag and put it in the freezer. After the departing flight taxied out, the top 3 called them on their aux freq and told them that there were a bunch of underwear found in the freezer. All the flight crews got to wonder who’s it was the whole way to Vegas.

Before you sell and plan to do all your own maintenance, find a shop that will let you help on current annuals. Then take 3 or 4 days off and do everything you want, and supervise what they do. It’s really the best of both worlds because you know everything that’s done, yet you don’t have to do anything you don’t want to or don’t have as good of skills for. But you can personally do everything you want to your specifications. And you get an appreciation for how long it might take to do 100% yourself.

Just to add something to slightly simplify the good details @PT20J gave you, the amps (when wired correctly) are going to show only the amps passing to/from the battery. So if the alternator is working and the battery is charging, you should see a low number of positive amps that are charging the battery. If your alternator isn’t working (engine not running, alternator broken, etc) you will see negative amps which are coming from your battery to power your electrical system. This negative number is dependent on what you’re trying to power.

Could the power supply be going wonky? I might just try everything without anything in the aux port or portable powered up , including phones for good measure…

I thought someone else mentioned a cigarette Lighter usb power port causing interference too… are you using one of those?

Yeah, nice to have a patch option at all at a reputable place and I bet they have to earn it inside the tanks. Seems very fair.

Might want to check carefully for pee induced corrosion back there…

Also, if you use foreflight, you can have it display the towers around you and it gives an indication of your reception. It’s in the settings on the map page.

You should pull your papr report from the faa and make sure you’re adsb out is working properly as well. It’s simple and quick. https://adsbperformance.faa.gov/PAPRRequest.aspx As Art said, traffic may be coming directly from users and it could be 1090 where fisb is only 978mhz…

You have any hanger buddies that can fire up their avionics next to your plane and see if one works and one doesn’t?

It’s one of the parts that scares me about my Mooney. Even with the factory making parts, there are a few things that seem to be unobtainable… new gears for the dukes electric gear, airspeed switches, etc. I thought there was a way to take the asss apart and replace the seals though, no?

Personally, since terrain doesn’t change, I don’t update it once you’ve got it working… The terrain files are really big and have caused me issues in the past.

I don’t disagree with anyone above but I haven’t had an oil leak get the windscreen yet. I did have a prop get that fine mist on the windshield though… did the prop get “serviced” at the annual?

Which solenoid/relay did he tap? The master solenoid (if failed) should be pretty self explanatory when you flip the master and nothing comes on in the cockpit. The starter solenoid maybe harder to identify but a tap like that might “fix” it. The master should be right near the battery. The starter solenoid on mine is attached to the engine side of the firewall.

It would be awesome if you could do this experiment in the Mooney because we often have this debate about how much slower (if any) the 3 blade is.

Yeah, airline overhead siz (“carry on”) with wheels is just fine. You can fit several, although i think @N201MKTurbo must be a tetris master to fit 4. You can get at least 3 and a backpack or two on top just fine!

I see your documentation there, so I’m not (fully) doubting, but I also think it’s allowed to connect two navs if they are both “digital”, as in a gtn or gns and an sl30 nav/com or other digital nav. The installation manual is great Except it’s got so much information that it has sections for 1g5, 2g5s, gad29, no gad29, 1 g5 with ap, wo ap, w garmin ap, with non garmin ap, etc. which section is that from above?

Also, just be careful if this is related to your previous electrical issue you posted about. Throwing in a new alternator and vr might solve it but it’s not guaranteed without some reasonable troubleshooting. I’ve proved it (and have the new alternator and vr to show for it)!

Busted rings cause blowby. Or the “lined up” rings. You may still get compression checks ok because oil “seals” the bottom of the cylinder but you still get excess blowby. Good luck finding it!

There were times I took off with 31,000lbs of fuel (3 tanks). Landed with 3,000. After a 2.0. Now that’s just north of 4,000 gallons of jet fuel and $5/ gallon, well, you see how it adds up! The fuel is probably the cheap part too!

Those things were awesome! Notice he didn’t do any turning, loops, nothing. That thing was faster than a bullet in a straight line though!