Ragsf15e

I agree. I’d like to know as well. I’m going to try the different Vy next time out.

That’s 100% the best procedure!

Ha! We had procedures for dealing with jamming in 2003…

Spoofing gps for airplanes or even jamming (which is easier) is actually pretty tough in cruise. The jammers/spoofers are usually on the ground and need to cover a large area. The aircraft antenna is on the top of the aircraft, providing some shielding from ground based signals. I’d be more worried about someone tactically spoofing gps near an airport where an ac is on an approach in low weather. In these conflict areas they are warning about, there can be many powerful jammers covering a wide area. I think that’s unlikely outside a conflict zone.

Unless you’re on fire…

Next time I go fly I’ll try 100-95mph and see what I get. My engine is older but very smooth and produces consistent cruise speeds. The gear tuck up nicely. Now I’m curious…

I’m interested in what you get as you’d think they’d be closer. Mine did indicate a vsi approximately what I calculated. I held 110mph (poh Vy) the whole time. I guess I should have slowed to ~100 by 10,000’. I had almost full tanks, me, and some random gear. The only time I see greater than 1000fpm vsi is taking off with maybe 20gallons and very cold.

I tried to match your climb today, but no dice. Maybe your F climbs better than mine, or maybe there’s something else going on. 2c at takeoff, 2000’ field elevation. 9:50 to 10k. So ~815fpm. Still not bad. I was ~510lbs shy of mgw. Maybe takeoff, acceleration and cleaning up added more time but it seemed quick.

So I emailed ack and they suggested the 5 beep code could definitely be the battery (mine is good for another 18 months) and they suggested I test it. Reading through their manual, the battery must be at 25c for a valid test! I kept it overnight at home at room temp, installed it in the airplane and magic, it worked perfectly! Not a lot of confidence if the temperature at cruise around 10,000 feet is -15 C and you need your ELT to work….

There’s a reasonable chance your grease is getting “firm” in the chain, or trim mechanism. It should turn freely. I would want that fixed as it’s not going to fix itself. There are some great descriptions on how to fix that on this site. Shouldn’t be rocket science. Maybe @N201MKTurbo remembers where he posted that last?

Just remember, lots of people threw out numbers that included owner assistance for removing and reinstalling the 1000 screws that are on the inspection plates and belly. It’s a pain (I just did it). Also, that’s only the inspection, no repairs on anything.

Unlikely that you find a nicely equipped j/k that low. Id look at E, F and C depending on your needs. Should be able to get one with really nice avionics and reasonable engine time for your budget.

$2500-$3500 in my experience. There are large differences in what different IAs decide to inspect. Obviously there are regulations and a Mooney specific guide but there’s still a lot of differences.

I think some people have had success at Houston tank specialists, but it’s not a lot closer…

Here’s the thread I was looking at. Last post seems to indicate it’s optional.

I think there is one as an option but it’s not required… but I don’t know for certain. It’s advertised as a dg though, not a compass or hsi, so you’ll have to set it. There’s another thread where a guy was talking about installing without the magnometer option.

Extra fancy! Needing the gsm as well might be a drawback for “just a dg?”

Av-30 if you want to be fancy.

The way I’ve understood it and seems to work like this in practice… if you’re descending without touching anything, the fuel servo is somewhat compensating for the increased air pressure of lower altitude by increasing fuel flow. But not enough to completely keep your same ROP or LOP setting. You get leaner as you descend (more air, not as much more fuel). So if you started ROP, it will creep towards peak and high power as you descend. It could potentially get to high power near peak which isn’t great. However, if you’re cruising LOP, you’ll also get leaner - further lop - which will keep cylinders cool. Eventually you’ll end up so lean after a long descent that the engine stumbles because it’s very far lean of peak. It’s not going to hurt anything there, but you’ll need to go rich in the pattern.

Since they’re all handmade (the airplanes) and are getting older, sometimes they don’t fit exactly. You might just need to look carefully and be prepared to remove/move that seal to exactly the place on the door where it will actually seal. I think @PT20J had his seats out and put a flashlight behind it to see where he needed to move the sesl (before gluing). The part number you mentioned is the prescribed part, so should be able to work with some (maybe a lot) of effort.

One thing to keep an eye on… new plugs could “fix” the problem only for something to reoccur. Like something causing fouling or whatever. Normally plugs (even massives) will be fine well past 300h. You just clean them annually and check the resistance as described in the videos posted above. Glad it’s working for you! Enjoy!

It says you can use it for either (or both now) mags.

Yeah that would be awesome! Do you need to change the wiring for that? Doesn’t the switch ground the right mag during start?

You can do either, but as @47U said, replacing the left gives you benefits of a better start and you can remove your sos.

You don’t really need to keep chts “up” in the descent. You should see Washington temps this time of year! I descend just like @Shadrachdescribed. If im lop, just trim forward and enjoy the extra knots. You can leave all the knobs alone until pattern altitude or whenever you want to get down quicker. Don’t plan on slowing in your descent though. Plan to level off early and reduce power to slow down level when possible.