Ragsf15e

Possibly, but the IF is only 6 miles from the FAF.

Just a technique, but If you do decide to go to an IF or IAF, don’t ask for “vectors”. Just ask for the IF or IAF by name. Direct is implied, vectors don’t really make sense. Once cleared to the IAF or IF, You will activate the appoach in your gps and navigate yourself direct. No vectors required. When getting vectors to final, you need vectors to get you to the ambiguous place prior to the faf at the correct heading.

If it keeps happening, I’d just ask for direct to an IAF or IF (if you’re aligned <90 degrees) and not worry about the controller messing with me. No need for a vector or anything, just request direct to the iaf.

Do you know what gears you have and if it’s been taken apart and serviced with the proper formula of grease on schedule? There is a check for gear wear. They are a weaker point in the system if not properly serviced….

If nobody is rebuilding these now, We need to get a known place like Aeromotors to start. We also need a source for new 40:1 gears. The motors and the gears last a long time if we take care of them but eventually they need some love.

Just playing devils advocate, I give my money to the nice lady at the checkout stand when i buy groceries. She works for the store. Who did I give it to? If he wrote a personal check to the guy, maybe that’s bad. If he paid cash or cc, who knows? I think he needs an attorney. Unfortunately.

I’m definitely no lawyer, but if he bought it from a legitimate agent of the shop, shouldn’t the shop be responsible for refunding his purchase price if he gives it back? I get that the guy was stealing, but the shop hired him and he was stealing from them. The insurance company should be after the crook here, no?

I’ve never heard that buying from jepp gives you foreflight as well? Foreflight is its own subscription. For just a 430w, I use garmin as its a little cheaper than jepp and i get the whole US instead of just the western states. Make sure you have the correct loader as the jepp and garmin ones are different and are not interchangeable. Do you intend to use jeppcharts in ff? Maybe that comes with a subscription. I don’t use them though. I’m partial to the government ones.

I have a different engine monitor, but it’s right where doc says, right around/under the 2/4 intake/exhaust tubes under the pilots side of the engine.

I love how the gear logic evolved over time too… my ‘68 has the red “unsafe” light on when the gear is completely up. And that’s how it was designed to work. Freaked my brother out when he saw it (he’s a usaf pilot too), “what’s wrong with the gear?!” If both my red and green are on or off, then there could be trouble. I guess my point for you guys troubleshooting this is to make sure you have the exact right schematic. Which you probably do…

Maybe I’m not smart, but if it makes pressure and isn’t leaking, I might just keep using it.

Cost effective and airplane don’t really belong in the same sentence, so I won’t hazard a guess, but… you’ll need a gps antenna added and a magnometer in the wing or tail. Possibly a temp probe and wiring. Those things are in addition to actually connecting the g5 or -375 into your gps. My g5s were about $11k installed. Ok, I’ll hazard a guess for you, but it’s total spitball… $20k for 1 g5 and-375, $25k for two g5s and-375. That’s likely plus/minus $5k. Well actually it likely won’t be less.

If you do the -375 with dual G5s, you’re really getting 2 new digital ADIs with their own batteries, waas gps and adsb in/out. Tough to beat. With an aspen, you’ll need to keep your legacy adi (depending on the setup you go with).

This is another part that scares me. At least Mooney recently made a batch of intake boots, but this cable is grounding if it’s bad and there’s nowhere to get one?!

Yeah, option 2 with 2xg5s is likely one of your best options.

I could see some type of “field approval” (which is probably not quite right) for a gear warning, but it might be a stretch to have the whole system in experimental mode…

If the things Eric listed remind you too much of the baby you don’t have right now, I think I’d take advantage of the awesome hiking and beautiful mountains you have access to! Nothing like the alps in spring. I have a video of my wife dancing through a meadow singing “The Hills are Alive!” You can get current and safe again in a couple flights whilst you’re learning your autopilot with an instructor. Hang in there! It will be ok!

The g1000 I fly (Piper) has all of those. Weird they didn’t certify that on the g3x?

Ok, that’s embarrassing. Navy, right? I will say at home station, we generally just used 300-350kts up initial, you could be down to 200kts after the break easy. However, when deployed, there are all kinds of fun approaches, and I don’t remember crashing. Once I did burst my wso’s eardrums (actually just bulging blood through them) but I came up over the field with my wingman at ~35,000’, rolled inverted and pointed straight down in idle. The F-15E has enough drag to stay subsonic in idle. At around 5000’ we started pitching up and ended up on downwind about 300kts. You can lose a lot of airspeed in a 6G pull in idle! Apparently he was a little stuffed up and the pressure change wasn’t good for him. We also had a 500’, 500kts on initial option, but that was frowned upon after the navy jets kept doing it at 200’ and 600 kts. Oh yeah, in Afghanistan I definitely did a split S to downwind a few times. Anyway, these approaches are fun, but they are also for a purpose in bad guy country. At night we just did the ILS lights out. And nobody should crash!

It gets confusing down there though because there’s both uplimit and down limit switches. If one is sticking, you can have some weird stuff that’s difficult to sort out. When I had this type of issue a couple years ago (no squat switch on mine though) I called dmax and he got on the phone with me. Basically told me, step 1, do what @N201MKTurbo said, lube those switches. Step 2, here’s the part numbers for them. Step 3, bring it to him. It stopped happening after step 1 but I have no idea if I exorcised something with lube like @Yetti recommended?

I’m not sure that’s correct. I have a 68 F with hydraulic flaps and it has 125mph Vfe. I don’t know why it changed, but it doesn’t seem to be hydraulic to electric flaps causing the change.

Glad you didn’t go yanking cylinders!

I have my long funnel in a ziplock freezer bag with paper towels in the bottom. Then I put that ziplock in another ziplock. Gallon freezer bags work well. Double-bagged. No mess. Easy.

Wouldn’t surprise me if the squat switches can go bad like that and cause issues, but I think it’s unlikely that your discs are causing that when the gear is up.

The pucks only affect those few years with the squat switch and if the gear move up, it shouldn’t be the squat switch. However, it’s complicated enough that anything is possible. It’s best to work on replicating it on jacks.