Ragsf15e

That interior is awesome.

Did he do your glareshield and headliner too? Hows the HL look?

I fly a G1000 PA-46 for work and I only buy the one year subscription of Navdata. The Navdata is the only thing you legally need in the gps. You don’t need terrain, obstacles, safetaxi, etc. Personally I like that stuff better on my ipad, so I get the upgraded FF with your position on charts for approach and taxi. You can also get your Jepp there if you want. If the terrain and/or obstacles in the airplane are very old, possibly they are worth updating, however they don’t change much. So personally, I do the cheapest garmin Navdata option and do all the charts on ipad. I don’t really find the charts helpful on the mfd although safe taxi can be if you like that better than on the ipad. I think nav data is like ~$500 for all north america.

I know this isn’t always popular, but it seems reasonable to check with airpower and see how much the wait and cost is on a factory rebuilt. If you want to be fair, compare that to overhauling your engine AND all the other components since they come with the factory rebuilt.

The Lance numbers are even worse when you figure maintenance!

When mine was stepped on by a ~200lb person, it deflected pretty much full down. I’m not saying what causes the cracks at the attach points, but we probably shouldn’t step on the flaps, overspeed them or otherwise mistreat them if we want to avoid future cracking at a known weakness.

But cracking at the attachment is definitely a thing… something cracks it there and I think stepping on a flap is as much force as anything else.

Lots of people leave them down for this reason. I don’t think it’s “a spring” holding up hydraulic flaps, but i could be wrong. There is a torque tube attached to the aft spar going between the flaps and there’s a common crack that occurs at the attachment and an sb to install a doubler to fix the crack. Obviously not definitive, but I had a guy step on mine and a crack was discovered at the next annual. It’s expensive to repair because access is through the baggage compartment floor. Someone chime in with the sb number for me…

That is interesting. And you’ve opened up the mixing box to see how the valve works? And the scat tubes aren’t pinched somewhere?

It definitely seems like the “problem”appears when we switch to fancy eis vs the stock gages…

The mechanical pumps are supposed to be dead reliable. That being said, I had mine replaced because it was leaking oil. They have two seals in them. One keeps oil out of the fuel, one keeps fuel out of the oil. If one is leaking, it’s not a problem. If both leak, it’s not good. If they leak, it comes out the tiny drain on the pilot side under the engine, near the nosewheel. You can trace the drain line to see exactly which drain because the other tiny drain is the sniffle valve and it’s common to get a little fuel out of that after shutdown. When my pump was changed, psi increased to right at 30psi.

Yeah I agree, I was just pointing out that he might have someone telling him it’s fine.

It definitely sounds like the mags aren’t perfectly timed. Curiously, my 1968 poh says up to 125 rpm drop is ok, no more than 50 different between mags. The timing changes the drop a lot. Nobody answered your question about identifying a bad plug… the normal 1700rpm, rich runup isn’t a very good test of the ignition. An inflight lean mag check is better, but either way, switching to one mag you will see all the egts rise, but the bad plug will rise much more. If the plug is really bad, egt will drop off (no ignition) and engine will be really rough. Many people look more at even egts rising during the mag check and not as much at the rpm drop, but both are reasonable indicators.

Well that’s definitely different than what we’re discussing on this thread, at least my symptoms. Mine consistently bounces between about 20-30psi, never settles low and the electric pump doesn’t change the behavior at all. The electric pump works fine but it doesn’t settle the fluctuations or raise the psi of them.

Ha! Try “rarely use the heat” up here in Washington! Last year I had a flight with -21C air temp! That very warm air was barely adequate!

Definitely fixable. Reasonably thrifty hangar elf can open up the air mixer (big orange tubes coming into a metal box attached to engine side of firewall) and see what’s happening. Mine has a butterfly valve, yours may be a slide, but it’s definitely fixable.

I felt pretty similar to what you described… I just couldn’t get #2 to peak before feeling loss of power which isn’t normal.

Yes, #2 egt was a little higher than I expected but not much. I’d have to pull the data off the jpi (duh, I should’ve downloaded it) and see how much though. What you described sounds plausible, especially if it’s my “mag” plug on that cylinder. The SF advance kind of masks problems with the other plugs because the engine is (almost) firing just on the SF at higher altitudes because of the advance. There’s very little egt rise if I switch to left mag at cruise, lop. The egts go way up and the engine gets rough if I switch to right mag without re-leaning. The mag is working fine, it’s just the difference in timing. The thing I didn’t understand was the slight increase in cht. You guys have definitely given me a place to look.

Thanks, that’s a good point about anything clogging the air/breather hole on the injector making it richer.

Definitely post if you’re able to solve it. I thought Omega made snubbers matched to viscosity (8g being for gas/air) and the next closest one was for oil. 100ll was between the two. Which one are you using? The one I tried was for “light oil” and it didn’t work, although I also caused a leak, so that could have been part of it.

Now how the heck did it get like that?!

What the previous guys said… but also, you don’t “need” to comply with the sb since it’s not an AD. Currently there aren’t any available options, so luckily you can be airworthy with the one you have.

A while back, @PT20J posted Goodyears aircraft tire guidance. It was very detailed with pictures and tires not showing coords were fine. Might want to take a look at it if you can find it.

Yeah, I think that seems reasonable. I tried to think through how one could be richer than normal and nothing really makes sense?

Yes, I have Omega snubbers on my oil and manifold pressure, and they work great. I tried one on the fuel pressure and I caused a small leak (and it didn’t seem to help much), so I took it off. At least on my setup, putting a snubber in the line adds 3 connections because the snubbers are npt fittings and require an adapter on each end to mate with the flared fittings on the fuel line.