Ragsf15e

I’ve had this happen just because the injector loosens itself from its seat. You’re not supposed to crank it down or use locktite but i had a mechanic tell me they easily come loose. He used a very small dab of “xx” and the problem resolved. My new mechanic didn’t want to, but they loosened a bit… he resolved the same way.

I think the Minnesota crash just highlighted that cross control in imc might be disorienting, exacerbate small attitude disturbances, and could easily end up in a spiral dive or even spin (if you stall as well, but that’s a whole other thing). As @201er said, there’s no reason not to cross control in a crosswind landing or slip the aircraft in accordance with the poh (some have limitations with flaps down).

You should call DMax and talk to him (Don Maxwell Mooney, Longview TX). I called and talked to him a few years ago and he gave me some specific part numbers. I ended up lubing mine and (fingers crossed), it's been ok since. However, I looked up the part numbers and they appear to be two components that actually make up the switch. I'm not saying these are right - in fact they look different than yours, I'm saying you should call him, but I'm going to attach below so you can see... I'm now curious because your limit switch looks much different than mine (1968 F). What year is your F? Mine look more like the ones Don told me about. Maybe there is an alternate part you could use? I'll attach a (crappy) picture of my limit switch - it's black and cube shaped, definitely different than yours. Sorry about the picture, but it's in the bottom left. MCD2711 - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Honeywell/MCD2711?qs=0x4sLrpp94KewLfSyp6k4A%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwitShBhA6EiwAq3RqA3nvmhMJynIznYPuCs0H7iLE9sKi8PtiUNmwOAOwZtTGgGje0yvq4hoC8iQQAvD_BwE DT-2R-A7 - https://www.grainger.com/product/24A126?s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!606773749412!p!!g!!__EFKW__&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2296:AB578S:20500731&gclid=CjwKCAjwitShBhA6EiwAq3RqA9tu1iox7sux-IPLhsfy64P0hAF2rVytkY-OTvqT4M5_rR5B5o4AFhoCNh4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

The fill line comes through the firewall into the engine compartment. I’m not sure about the skinny vent line though, I’ll have to look. My 201 windshield doesn’t have the access plates, so I’m really hoping I don’t need access!

Thanks. I didn’t know about that pressure relief skinny tube. I’ll see what I can see from the outlet of that and the filler tube, but I’m planning to just leave it alone. I asked my mechanic if he had filled it at annual (month and a half ago) and he did, so that might have precipitated the drips. I cleaned it up today and will keep an eye on it.

Went flying today and noticed that my hydraulic reservoir is leaking. Few drops on the carpet below it. I initially thought the parking brake O rings were leaking again but I had them replaced about 3 years ago. Looked up there and it almost looks like it’s coming from the filler fitting? Could it really leak from the top? Anyone else worked on the reservoir? It’s pretty hard to get to with the 201 windshield… what does the top even look like?

I definitely wouldn’t do that. Then your primary autopilot indications and flight director are on your backup adi (g5) and not on your pfd (aspen). The aspen and the gfc500 have limited or no interaction.

The autopilot is at the center of this question. How well does it integrate with a g3x? Do you intend to keep the kap150 working? Are there parts? If you ever see changing autopilot, garmin is the only way to go. However, I don’t think the kap150 fully integrates with the g3x so right now might not be the time.

You should get someone knowledgeable to open up the inspection plates under the wing and take out the interior carpets and seats for a prebuy. You really need a good inspection of the spar. What you’ve identified isn’t an issue by itself but it could indicate that there are other issues which could be a problem.

As long as they’re pricing it as runout, it’s fine to buy and see what you can get from it. If it’s 2800 hours and priced like a 300 hour engine just because it’s still running good, then it’s not a great deal. It will need an oh sooner rather than later.

There’s a pretty specific way to start a flooded engine. Maybe you still have another issue, but if it’s really flooded, it won’t start normally. As Art said, no prime, full throttle, mixture lean. Crank. Slowly pull throttle out until it fires. Then idle throttle, mixture in (quickly).

Great story. Maxwells have always been really helpful! I do find it a little concerning that you had a sticky valve on a factory reman after 350 hours. What the heck causes that? Poor manufacturing tolerances? Exhaust buildup?

I had a lesser, but still good, experience. All of a sudden silicon was high and they told me to check my intake/filters. Sure enough, found a pretty good leak in the rubber Ram air gasket. Corrected it and silicon went back down.

Just to make you feel better (or worse), the airflow in there is pretty insane, so that oil might be coming from somewhere unexpected. Might want to widen the search…

Lots of lps1 electrical contact cleaner on the limit switches and then “exercise” them to work it in. This is a relatively common mooney issue and there are a few older threads on it.

It is tough, but I’ve taken my dad and he’s mobility challenged. To get out he basically lifted his butt up an inch or two and shifted out onto the wing walk. Then he was able to turn around and get his legs pointed downhill. It was easy after that. Emergency egress? Forget about it.

Also, those of us with older planes don’t even have an alt switch. The field is energized with the master on (theres a cb, but doubt anyone pulls it for start). Our alternators, starters, and avionics seem to survive just fine. I think the alt switch is only really useful for troubleshooting or resetting the vr.

@OSUAV8TER

Interesting that it went higher in cruise. Maybe check your firewall for leaks that can be better sealed. I had an exhaust riser come off (well the nuts fell off and it was just kind of hanging there on the bolts). Airborne readings were barely above 20 (0 is my norm). But on the ground it was like 50-75ppm and that’s well above the normal 10ppm. My feeling was that airflow through the engine compartment was taking the co out the cowl flaps but some was leaking through the firewall where there are openings. I’ve sealed everything i can. If you get a co monitor, make sure it alerts and gives an accurate reading at a low level (like sensorcon). Many home digital ones don’t display 50ppm until like 8 hours later and don’t show less than 30ppm ever. You want to know immediately if it goes up in your cockpit.

Yeah I don’t have the exact numbers in front of me because they’re slightly different, but it results in a similar issue in the pattern. I mostly notice on final.

On final, mp is pulled back enough that rpm is no longer controlled by the governor (at high rpm). Rpm becomes dependent on the mp like a fixed pitch prop. It just happens that some of the props also have a yellow range right where that mp for holding a good airspeed on final gives you that specific rpm. You probably don’t have this combination with your setup. You can either add mp and go faster or reduce it and go slower, but you can’t change rpm by itself because it’s on the stop. Edit- I guess you can still slow it down which probably works but would feel weird! edit: maybe i get what you meant… probably kind of tongue in cheek, but pull the prop back to slow it down and add in some mp?

I’ve got a 3 blade speed brake, maybe that’s the difference? I’ll try 100mph and see if she’ll hold 100mph at 2351?

Yeah, that’s the issue on instrument approach. I like gear and half flaps which means ~2300 rpm to hold 90mph. I guess I could either go with gear up and no flaps with 2000rpm or gear, full flaps and slip down the ils with 2400rpm?

I notice it on final and during precision instrument approaches, but I also don’t worry about it because those segments of flight don’t seem continuous to me.

Oh, yeah, I have those too… and they drive me crazy!