Ragsf15e

That sounds about right. I was about to go in from the top which seemed to require an octopus with really long arms as an assistant since there were screws in the cabin with free nuts in the belly. I went back for one more look under and got lucky. The 336 is almost identical but slightly smaller and they are use for avionics too. The base is just a little different…

It is the Lasar truss, do they have a separate steering horn STC as well? I agree it could be made pretty easily, and more cost effective too… $145 on Lasar website. I’d pay it for a new one though because we’ve got her all opened up for annual.

Well crap. It’s not the bolt or washer because I have them on hand. It’s the very short and unobtainable rod end (blue circle). Anyone have a lead on where to find them? I left a message at lasar but website says out… part 914012-013 rod end.

Did you ever find a new 914012-013? mine is developing some slop too and I haven’t found one yet. Call is in to Lasar, but doesn’t look good from their website…

So Skip and Carusum were right! The black plastic end cap screwed off and the whole socket and bulb dropped downward into easy reach. I celebrated (too early), went and grabbed my new bulb and found it slight bigger than the existing one and too big to fit in the socket! Crap, that new socket has a GE336 in it instead of the GE330 we normally use. So I have a $25 bulb on the way from AeroLeds… $5 bulb and $20 expedited shipping.

Yeah mine has the longer reboot time but it hasn’t been a problem. Doing a normal preflight mag check doesn’t cause a backfire. It does “skip” (no pun) as you go from R back to Both, but no backfire. I did an airborne full power mag check after I got it… that did cause a backfire. I guess it was the higher power? Since then, if I do an airborne mag check, I reduce power before switching back through. That works fine. Anyway, on a 14v system, even the old one seems ok to me. I’ve been happy with it.

Possibly. I tried a gentle turn and got nowhere but maybe it needs more. I’m try to be careful. I might have access from the top too so I’m going to take those screws off tomorrow and look. @EricJ ? @N201MKTurbo?

Help… where do i put the wrench and turn to take out the tiny light?

I know it’s warm in Texas, even in the clouds (I lived in Del Rio), but it’s smart to turn it on before takeoff any time you’ll be imc. The pitot tube can ice before the wing. You aren’t gonna hurt it. Just turn it on. I iced a pitot tube in North Carolina once. It’s warm there too. Your groundspeed still works, so you can get an idea from that until your pitot heat warms up.

I disagree. Not to say there haven’t been some issues, but I feel like they’ve been addressed. The one I’m thinking of is the issue with 24v planes where the voltage was fluctuating and causing the SF to reset. They have an updated model that fixed that. Are there other Issues? Mine has been great, but that’s only one data point.

When your left mag needs changed or OH’d, switch it for a Surefly E mag. Eliminates the SOS. Also, it just works better than a mag and requires less planned maintenance. I’ve had mine on for 2+ years and 200 hours. It’s great.

I think so, thanks. Chief and spruce have them back in stock. Fingers crossed.

Depends on the country of course, but I’ll never forget flying from Egypt to Kuwait… tanker took us just past the red sea, topped the two of us off and went back to Spain. Route was across northern Saudi. Up until the tanker left, they had all the comms on vhf, but we were uhf only at the time. They gave us a freq, the route, and “comms aren’t real good right here but you should be able to contact them on 336.2 in ~50 miles.” Then that beautiful big KC-10 did a 180 and it got really quiet. Next thing I see is the WSO in #1s jet with about 8 feet of map in a 3 foot cockpit. He was covered in charts. Probably looking for more frequencies because we couldn’t talk to anyone, but we quickly started getting yelled at on several frequencies including guard. Some of it was even in English which was great except when we heard things like “American fighter jets, you very bad!” and “you not clearance!” My flight lead tried to communicate, but we never really got through. Well that went on for what seemed like about 40 minutes until we got close to Kuwait. My flight lead looked at me at one point and shrugged his shoulders? Still no reliable comms or really any clearance. We just assumed the “super power, coming through!” Mindset and crossed into kuwuait, called up AlJaber tower and got a real live American controller who cleared us to land. Good memories…

So did it end up being just a new SW version in the G5/G3X or is it more than that?

That makes sense. I think there’s a bracket conversion that happens when you switch to the Weldon 8163a which would make it “distasteful” to switch back to the Dukes. Nice that you had a compatible replacement available.

I did find the Weldon 8163A on Aeromoters website, so worth a call. One of our earlier threads mentioned doing an exchange with them if they have one sitting there. Apparently, they’ve been really helpful in the past.

For some reason I thought there were versions without the “plastic” vanes, but I don’t have any documentation for that.

Was yours the same 8163A? I thought Aeromoters overhauled those? Going back to a Dukes would require “unmodifying” the brackets, no?

@M20Doc is the best there is up there. How big is canada though?

If you look at a G5 “compatibility chart” from Garmin, you’ll find a check mark in the box under kfc200. Unfortunately this isn’t the whole answer. It’s compatible with the heading function as you initially mentioned and will provide gpss. It is not compatible with the attitude input required by your kfc200. You need to keep the original attitude indicator or use a gi275 which is fully compatible.

I wouldn’t jump to a new alternator too quick… they usually go a long time. Definitely worth the troubleshooting, especially at the field and power terminal attachment at the alternator. I’m very suspicious of a complete system failure on the first flight after annual. Did they capacity check the battery though? I wouldn’t have expected to have it that low right away. Was it charging at takeoff?

Couple observations… good compressions indicate the valves working well, but could still have a blowby issue past rings. That area can be “sealed” with oil giving good compressions. The evidence will be along the left side of the belly behind your breather. Look closely at the belly under the pilot seat. Even with some blowby, that’s not necessarily terrible. Just gotta wash the belly and add some oil. What type cylinders do you have? What color is the stripe on them? Is the hatching still on the cylinder walls? i use about 6hrs/qt. I’ve been as low as 3 when I was having some cylinder issues. Money and a new cylinder fixed that. 1300hr engine 1998 OH, chrome cylinders.

Yeah I wouldn’t normally drain my battery that much, but if my alternator dies imc, I’m gonna want my 30ah available!

I was wondering the same thing… how does a 15ah battery last longer than a ~30ah battery in an emergency regardless of what chemistry it is?

Also here’s some of the guidelines for pilots from the AIM. I think the highlights are key in the “grey area”situations. “Any other conditions that could adversely affect flight safety.” You won’t see pilots getting in trouble for declaring an emergency with a situation that is too minor. It’s good to get the help before you really need it bad.