Ragsf15e

Someone just tried the $100 bill thing on an interstate in Oregon and was politely asked to stop by the state police…

I can say that I have the exact same setup and it works perfectly. Before the g5s, I had a kcs-55a, so I’m thinking mine was already configured for the proper input.

Great, now I replied to a 12-year-old thread.

Can you show a picture of the flush rivets on your wing? I have a ‘68F and it has flush rivets on the forward half of the wing too. Do others have them farther aft?

1500 useful load, but need to use 1000 of that for fuel to feed that beast!

Less than maneuvering speed might be a good place to start, however altitude or airspeed are really the same thing. They are just different forms of energy (potential/kinetic). Trade the extra speed for a little extra altitude and then slip normally with all your drag out. If you’re going too fast (lets say on downwind looking for gear speed), level off or very slight climb with power idle until you get to gear speed, then configure with gear/flaps. Now maybe since you were too fast initially, you’re now too high? But now you’ve got lots of drag and you can slip at a more normal speed to reduce the extra altitude (potential energy). Slipping at a high speed with gear and flaps up is not nearly as effective and potentially uncomfortable since you probably don’t practice that at a high speed. It is still effective to slip clean if you just need to lose a little “energy” though.

Rtv sealant. If you find a bigger one, aluminum might be appropriate… or at least aluminum tape? I’m not sure.

Mine were pretty easy to find just decowling, but i did have some of the scat tubing out which helped. Yeah it’s surprisingly hard to see in the middle behind the mags…

Uh oh, can of worms! You gonna get lotta different answers. Many people climb at 2700 and leave it there. Others follow the checklist which might have you reduce power pretty Far - 25/25? Me? I pull mine back to 2600 and climb at full throttle/2600 all the way until level off. I make that 2600 pull about 1000’. The engine (io-360) is rated for 2700 continuous though, so pulling rpm is reducing power…

Essentially holes in the firewall from wire pass-throughs no longer used, bolt holes from equipment removed (like my sos), etc. we just patched them or used rtv to seal if they were small. After 50 years, there were a few old holes in there that were no longer used.

Well it looks awesome. Great job picking the shop and the scheme!

Where did you have the beautiful paint job done?

No worries, I learn things that I probably should’ve already known like that all the time. Just to clarify though, you can do it with any kind of approach certified gps nav, not just gtn. You do have to monitor the underlying vor though.

Oh sheesh, one other oddity… since you can use gps substitution on VOR approaches (while monitoring the vor), you could have an approach designed using angular vor sensitivity, but flown using fixed gps lnav sensitivity.

And then there’s also VOR approaches where the vor is the faf and it’s angular, but getting less sensitive as you get closer to the map. Lots of different ways they can work.

I believe the older non precision gps approaches did not change sensitivity as they got closer to the map. I do think it’s easier to fly one using angular sensitivity.

Good info! the ones I’ve seen might be a different type because they are yellow/brass colored, but I think there’s also an adjustment. Good idea on trying the bypass. The bypass will just bypass the ASSS, so it’s a big help in troubleshooting vs identifying a problem with other parts of the system.

The airspeed safety switch, or ASSS, is a separate piece, but is commonly located just behind the airspeed indicator. They can be damaged if the shop applies excessive pitot pressure while they’re testing everything else. Be sure you troubleshoot it first. Someone on here has a pin diagram for it and you can check it. Usually they either work or don’t. While it seems like that is your problem from your troubleshooting, you could also have an issue with the relays or limit switches. @PT20J

I’ve done it once in a glider. The 2-33 can fly pretty slow though, so the wind was only around 45mph. It was surprisingly hard to get down in the first place because of the serious lift from the building storm cell (which also caused the wind). Speed brakes and slipping yielded a slow descent. Picking an aim point and then speeding up or slowing down to get over it was really hard. The final few hundred feet straight down was a very odd feeling. We ended up with gliders all over the place. After landing, the front seater kept flying and the back seater jumped out to grab the wing and try to hold on!

Sheesh, that’s nearly my gear/ flaps max speed! Might have to go past the runway and back it in!

Somewhere between 15-25 depending on your comfort level. Or 70 if you have a wide runway and can elevator down like @N201MKTurbo.

I noticed mine getting worse during taxi. Never had any shimmy, but it would hunt while taxiing. Like there was play in the linkage with the steering centered. Get your head up under there with it on jacks. Hold the linkage tight and try to move the nosewheel. It’s pretty easy to see exactly where it’s loose. Lasar has most of the hardware available for the nose gear.

I have asked that before and I got several different responses. Actually it was unclear to some folks from their factory w&b. However, they would “normally” be weighed with empty fuel and empty tks, but with oil. It is a big difference, maybe some tks owners can comment?

Cg is more easily balanced with the mooney. For a 450nm trip, you won’t need full tanks either, so you might be fine with a Bravo. When you do the math think about how far an airplane can go within your weight limitations and see if that meets your needs. Obviously count ifr reserves. Be advised that empty and useful weights are usually with empty TKS and the fluid is heavy.

Go out and stall it in a slip. Oh wait, did I say that?! Yes, take a cfi if you want, do it at 8,000’, sure, but try it. Both left and right. I’m not saying spin it, but you can recover at the buffet or at the break and not spin. You will gain a lot of knowledge about what it will take to actually stall in a slip. It takes effort. Release back pressure, opposite rudder. You will end nose low, but won’t spin. Flame suit on.