Ragsf15e

Also, it’s some kind of piano wire. You can get some silicon spray down onto the wire where it pushes up the vent on top (outside the airplane).

Since we’re reminiscing, I miss @Maraudertoo. Not his ladies so much, but we berated him into leaving and he had something like 25-30 years of ownership experience. He said something people didn’t really agree with and ended on the bottom of a dogpile.

Nothing foolish about that at all. Good story for everyone and how we all learn. Thanks.

Sure you got all the fuel out? 10 gallons hiding?

Well, I do feel sorry for you. But I also know you’ll find a way to fix it. Probably legally too, so this might help the rest of us out!

If it’s truly engaged and not broken, the emer crank will spin like the beejesus when you electrically move the gear. Ask me how I know. You probably would have noticed that. Almost impossible not to. So maybe your system is broken, or maybe it’s not all the way engaged. Might want to open up the belly panel and see if it’s actually engaged.

I have a 2 place one with cannulas. I’m not sure it’s volume, but it lasts a very long time with cannulas and it’s not that big. There’s likely no way around the clutter. I’m not a fan either. I usually just put my bottle on the co pilot seat (if solo) or the back seat. I like to be able to see and adjust the flow meters and check the pressure. My flow adjustment is on the regulator attached to the bottle, so a back of the seat holder would only work on the co pilot seat but I have not tried that. You definitely want a good finger pulse oximeter if you don’t have one.

To be fair, NOT exhaling would have also killed them!

Someone just tried the $100 bill thing on an interstate in Oregon and was politely asked to stop by the state police…

I can say that I have the exact same setup and it works perfectly. Before the g5s, I had a kcs-55a, so I’m thinking mine was already configured for the proper input.

Great, now I replied to a 12-year-old thread.

Can you show a picture of the flush rivets on your wing? I have a ‘68F and it has flush rivets on the forward half of the wing too. Do others have them farther aft?

1500 useful load, but need to use 1000 of that for fuel to feed that beast!

Less than maneuvering speed might be a good place to start, however altitude or airspeed are really the same thing. They are just different forms of energy (potential/kinetic). Trade the extra speed for a little extra altitude and then slip normally with all your drag out. If you’re going too fast (lets say on downwind looking for gear speed), level off or very slight climb with power idle until you get to gear speed, then configure with gear/flaps. Now maybe since you were too fast initially, you’re now too high? But now you’ve got lots of drag and you can slip at a more normal speed to reduce the extra altitude (potential energy). Slipping at a high speed with gear and flaps up is not nearly as effective and potentially uncomfortable since you probably don’t practice that at a high speed. It is still effective to slip clean if you just need to lose a little “energy” though.

Rtv sealant. If you find a bigger one, aluminum might be appropriate… or at least aluminum tape? I’m not sure.

Mine were pretty easy to find just decowling, but i did have some of the scat tubing out which helped. Yeah it’s surprisingly hard to see in the middle behind the mags…

Uh oh, can of worms! You gonna get lotta different answers. Many people climb at 2700 and leave it there. Others follow the checklist which might have you reduce power pretty Far - 25/25? Me? I pull mine back to 2600 and climb at full throttle/2600 all the way until level off. I make that 2600 pull about 1000’. The engine (io-360) is rated for 2700 continuous though, so pulling rpm is reducing power…

Essentially holes in the firewall from wire pass-throughs no longer used, bolt holes from equipment removed (like my sos), etc. we just patched them or used rtv to seal if they were small. After 50 years, there were a few old holes in there that were no longer used.

Well it looks awesome. Great job picking the shop and the scheme!

Where did you have the beautiful paint job done?

No worries, I learn things that I probably should’ve already known like that all the time. Just to clarify though, you can do it with any kind of approach certified gps nav, not just gtn. You do have to monitor the underlying vor though.

Oh sheesh, one other oddity… since you can use gps substitution on VOR approaches (while monitoring the vor), you could have an approach designed using angular vor sensitivity, but flown using fixed gps lnav sensitivity.

And then there’s also VOR approaches where the vor is the faf and it’s angular, but getting less sensitive as you get closer to the map. Lots of different ways they can work.

I believe the older non precision gps approaches did not change sensitivity as they got closer to the map. I do think it’s easier to fly one using angular sensitivity.

Good info! the ones I’ve seen might be a different type because they are yellow/brass colored, but I think there’s also an adjustment. Good idea on trying the bypass. The bypass will just bypass the ASSS, so it’s a big help in troubleshooting vs identifying a problem with other parts of the system.