Ragsf15e

If you do go led, then you can’t use tge lights as a substitute for cabin heat like the old ones… I switched to led, kept the same dimmer and it doesn’t dim well as eric and Skip mentioned, however, it does provide a nice red light for reading maps or checklists. I turn it off when not in use.

Great, now the Canadians are “helping” us make our AD “better”!

I wonder if other sealants failing or being dissolved has anything to do with those fluctuating fuel pressure sensors weve run into?

Using the sealant is key to get it really leak free. I’m not good at this, but using it liberally and then cleaning up any excess after tightening has worked for me. Honestly I’ve had some (minor) issues with tapered “jic” fittings too and haven’t been able to get them perfect. I want “sealant” for them!

Yeah, my mechanic was unimpressed, but I was super happy to see that green light! It doesn’t come on until the gear is down AND it lets you see the indicator!

Oh sheesh, if you’re going for new panel, then just do a 10” g3x and one g5 and do the gfc500 now. You can have the engine gages on the g3x too which gets you an engine monitor. Approx cost is $60-80 installed. You can get rid of almost everything else.

If you look strictly at cost, g5s are cheaper. Depending on the installation, a gi-275 might require less panel work, but g5s are the “budget” option between the two.

Yes, led light rings put in by previous owner. They are dimmable and work pretty well.

Yes, the g5 can do only one nav sometimes… but if you have two navs with “digital” output, they can handle both. I have an SL30 as number 2, and apparently that’s about the oldest nav that has digital output and can be combined into the g5, although it’s not currently hooked up that way.

Any chance it’s prop grease? Is there “oil” on prop blades from the hub? Was oil pressure low because your oil was really hot? Because that could be normal…

Another good option is the gi-275. They fit in your existing round holes, so less panel surgery. They are a bit more money, but not terribly. Both g5 and-275 can drive gfc500 or stec. Gi275 adi and hsi can be put in (they have reversion in case one fails) and then you don’t need any traditional instruments. If you use g5 for the ADI and hsi, it also has reversion but you must leave a tc, alt airspeed and vsi. If you want easy, 2 xgi275s go where your existing adi and heading are. Done. You can remove vac pump. If you’re looking for a super awesome panel, we can help you spend much much more and it will look like a Tesla. Up to you.

Ha! No doubt! I fly a Meridian for work and the new Concord 2 years ago cost more than the annual on my Mooney this year… and while I helped with inspection panel removal and installation, I paid a standard rate for the 30 hours of time I was charged.

Welcome! I have an F model, 1968, and they are slightly off to the right. Not noticeable at all while flying. They are great instruments. Im not sure if they could be made to fit perfectly in the middle, but it would be tight. Also, the other required instruments must be retained, so it depends on where they are too. quick question… is there currently an autopilot? If so, what kind? G5s are fully compatible with garmin autopilots and have varying degrees of compatibility with others, however they cannot provide attitude to an attitude based system. Sorry about the dark picture. I was night flying recently and it’s the first one I found.

Ahhh, that helped. I didn’t check those screws but I will now. Would be nice to have a better way in!

I recommend this: https://www.zeftronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Z14PS.pdf I think you’ll be a page 2 type of system. 11v at the field seems reasonable, but the troubleshooting will lead you through systematically. If you get frisky, run it and check the alternator output at the alternator terminals. Use long wires with clips - be safe! I found measuring actual voltages with battery or engine on was working better for me that resistance with power off.

Yes, mine is 68-0164, F. Smooth skin, not hybrid weight thankfully. Already signed off!

It’s the rod end attached to the steering horn above the nose gear. I’m trying to picture what you’re saying, but I think it’s well forward of the firewall? With the gear up and gear doors disconnected, it’s not bad as it rotates down towards the ground where you can get at it.

I appreciate the offer! My IA’s fix by adding some spacers and tightening it up seems pretty solid for now and I’ve got one ordered. Mostly, no, I didn’t take careful measurements. I will when I get the new one and I’ll post them. That rod end isn’t easy to get in and out… the nose gear has to be retracted to get at it.

Well it’s in the federal register, my IA found it, found the SB, did the check and signed it off. I’ll take it.

Mine happened to be in annual this week. I showed my IA the AD (it wasn’t in adlog yet), he inspected, tried the magnet, signed off and charged.25 hours. No bad weights. Good deal!

It was definitely the rod end. We took it out in the hole is slightly elongated. Laser ordered a new one for us from Mooney, but it’s going to take two months. For now, my I was able to tighten it up with some spacers, and it’s much better than it was before.

Success!! it didn’t go without a fight, however. I got the correct bulb for the plastic socket, but when I put it in, the wire fell out the back of the socket. The solder broke up in the socket. So I handed the tiny plastic and metal socket to my IA and said, what do we do? he said, take it apart and see if we can fix it. Some very small soldering and gentle, disassembly and reassembly, and it’s fixed!

I do my standard runup check lean, so maybe that’s why? I don’t have a great technique, but somewhere between taxi lean (which is really lean) and rich. It just sounds like a quick pause switching through.

Lasar didn’t have the rod end in stock but they ordered one from mooney. They called first and were told one month.

There are reasonably good troubleshooting guides on both Zeftronics and Plane Power websites. Throwing parts at the problem seems how most of these issues are solved but troubleshooting them fully is usually possible (intermittent problems are tough). The thing is that our airplanes are old. There are almost invariably noisy, corroded, or loose connections (or CBs) somewhere. If a new VR or Alt doesn’t fix the problem, you’ll still be back to a voltmeter and troubleshooting guide or finding a shop competent in electrical issues (sometimes difficult). At the very least, I’d suggest checking the connections at the alternator carefully. You might also check the voltage on the field wire and alternator output (if you have low voltage), this can help narrow it down. Or just do what I did and replace the VR and Alternator. When that didn’t fix the problem, I learned how to use a voltmeter and went through the system more carefully to isolate the problem. It cost a lot more, but I got some education.