Ragsf15e

Curious, who was going to take your current prop in trade? Hartzel?

Id probably try removing, cleaning and reinstalling the injector first as it’s hard to “break” them. Where’s the bleed hole positioned with the correct torque?

Ha! I pushed over a little once when I knew my wso was peeing. I was looking in the mirror to see his expression. Was hilarious. Luckily he couldn’t reach me to hit me, but unluckily, he threw some stuff at me including the (thankfully sealed) piddle pack.

My wife successfully used a lady piddle pack in the Mooney. Once. The second time she “missed” and I ended up removing, cleaning and drying the entire interior to make sure we didn’t corrode away the whole damn thing.

Yeah I figured it would work most times fine. My parents are 525nm and I do it a lot in my F with 50 gallon fuel load most times. Last weekend we did it with ~15-20kts headwind though and I had to run Lop to make it with ~12 gallons from 55. Loaded to 50 gallons on the way home with a tw and landed with 17. The winds make a huge difference.

Just a minor thought as it looks great and fills most of your needs… you have the smaller fuel tanks on a C, so 500 miles will generally require full fuel tanks and may or may not be possible with a one hour reserve depending upon your winds and fuel burn. Most Cs aren’t too happy lean of peak, so don’t count on that. It will work fine often, but not always.

So I figured out your perspective, and I can see that the prop governor is below the mag, not above it. My throttle cable does not have a clamp between the firewall and the bottom of the engine sump where it changes from the plastic sheathing to the metal pushrod. It is not touching the governor, though, the way it bends coming out of the firewall, keeps it along side, the copilot foot, well, and about an inch away from the governor.

Ill try to get a picture of mine as I’m on this way to the airport anyway. I’m having a hard time getting the perspective of your picture though… is that an A1A with the prop gov above the right mag? Mine is a 68F.

So do you already have other pressurized lines leading to the injectors and fuel pump? That does seem pretty weird either way…

And that’s why I got a mechanical engineering degree….

Which one is being traded?

That interior is awesome.

Did he do your glareshield and headliner too? Hows the HL look?

I fly a G1000 PA-46 for work and I only buy the one year subscription of Navdata. The Navdata is the only thing you legally need in the gps. You don’t need terrain, obstacles, safetaxi, etc. Personally I like that stuff better on my ipad, so I get the upgraded FF with your position on charts for approach and taxi. You can also get your Jepp there if you want. If the terrain and/or obstacles in the airplane are very old, possibly they are worth updating, however they don’t change much. So personally, I do the cheapest garmin Navdata option and do all the charts on ipad. I don’t really find the charts helpful on the mfd although safe taxi can be if you like that better than on the ipad. I think nav data is like ~$500 for all north america.

I know this isn’t always popular, but it seems reasonable to check with airpower and see how much the wait and cost is on a factory rebuilt. If you want to be fair, compare that to overhauling your engine AND all the other components since they come with the factory rebuilt.

The Lance numbers are even worse when you figure maintenance!

When mine was stepped on by a ~200lb person, it deflected pretty much full down. I’m not saying what causes the cracks at the attach points, but we probably shouldn’t step on the flaps, overspeed them or otherwise mistreat them if we want to avoid future cracking at a known weakness.

But cracking at the attachment is definitely a thing… something cracks it there and I think stepping on a flap is as much force as anything else.

Lots of people leave them down for this reason. I don’t think it’s “a spring” holding up hydraulic flaps, but i could be wrong. There is a torque tube attached to the aft spar going between the flaps and there’s a common crack that occurs at the attachment and an sb to install a doubler to fix the crack. Obviously not definitive, but I had a guy step on mine and a crack was discovered at the next annual. It’s expensive to repair because access is through the baggage compartment floor. Someone chime in with the sb number for me…

That is interesting. And you’ve opened up the mixing box to see how the valve works? And the scat tubes aren’t pinched somewhere?

It definitely seems like the “problem”appears when we switch to fancy eis vs the stock gages…

The mechanical pumps are supposed to be dead reliable. That being said, I had mine replaced because it was leaking oil. They have two seals in them. One keeps oil out of the fuel, one keeps fuel out of the oil. If one is leaking, it’s not a problem. If both leak, it’s not good. If they leak, it comes out the tiny drain on the pilot side under the engine, near the nosewheel. You can trace the drain line to see exactly which drain because the other tiny drain is the sniffle valve and it’s common to get a little fuel out of that after shutdown. When my pump was changed, psi increased to right at 30psi.

Yeah I agree, I was just pointing out that he might have someone telling him it’s fine.

It definitely sounds like the mags aren’t perfectly timed. Curiously, my 1968 poh says up to 125 rpm drop is ok, no more than 50 different between mags. The timing changes the drop a lot. Nobody answered your question about identifying a bad plug… the normal 1700rpm, rich runup isn’t a very good test of the ignition. An inflight lean mag check is better, but either way, switching to one mag you will see all the egts rise, but the bad plug will rise much more. If the plug is really bad, egt will drop off (no ignition) and engine will be really rough. Many people look more at even egts rising during the mag check and not as much at the rpm drop, but both are reasonable indicators.

Well that’s definitely different than what we’re discussing on this thread, at least my symptoms. Mine consistently bounces between about 20-30psi, never settles low and the electric pump doesn’t change the behavior at all. The electric pump works fine but it doesn’t settle the fluctuations or raise the psi of them.