Ragsf15e

But cracking at the attachment is definitely a thing… something cracks it there and I think stepping on a flap is as much force as anything else.

Lots of people leave them down for this reason. I don’t think it’s “a spring” holding up hydraulic flaps, but i could be wrong. There is a torque tube attached to the aft spar going between the flaps and there’s a common crack that occurs at the attachment and an sb to install a doubler to fix the crack. Obviously not definitive, but I had a guy step on mine and a crack was discovered at the next annual. It’s expensive to repair because access is through the baggage compartment floor. Someone chime in with the sb number for me…

That is interesting. And you’ve opened up the mixing box to see how the valve works? And the scat tubes aren’t pinched somewhere?

It definitely seems like the “problem”appears when we switch to fancy eis vs the stock gages…

The mechanical pumps are supposed to be dead reliable. That being said, I had mine replaced because it was leaking oil. They have two seals in them. One keeps oil out of the fuel, one keeps fuel out of the oil. If one is leaking, it’s not a problem. If both leak, it’s not good. If they leak, it comes out the tiny drain on the pilot side under the engine, near the nosewheel. You can trace the drain line to see exactly which drain because the other tiny drain is the sniffle valve and it’s common to get a little fuel out of that after shutdown. When my pump was changed, psi increased to right at 30psi.

Yeah I agree, I was just pointing out that he might have someone telling him it’s fine.

It definitely sounds like the mags aren’t perfectly timed. Curiously, my 1968 poh says up to 125 rpm drop is ok, no more than 50 different between mags. The timing changes the drop a lot. Nobody answered your question about identifying a bad plug… the normal 1700rpm, rich runup isn’t a very good test of the ignition. An inflight lean mag check is better, but either way, switching to one mag you will see all the egts rise, but the bad plug will rise much more. If the plug is really bad, egt will drop off (no ignition) and engine will be really rough. Many people look more at even egts rising during the mag check and not as much at the rpm drop, but both are reasonable indicators.

Well that’s definitely different than what we’re discussing on this thread, at least my symptoms. Mine consistently bounces between about 20-30psi, never settles low and the electric pump doesn’t change the behavior at all. The electric pump works fine but it doesn’t settle the fluctuations or raise the psi of them.

Ha! Try “rarely use the heat” up here in Washington! Last year I had a flight with -21C air temp! That very warm air was barely adequate!

Definitely fixable. Reasonably thrifty hangar elf can open up the air mixer (big orange tubes coming into a metal box attached to engine side of firewall) and see what’s happening. Mine has a butterfly valve, yours may be a slide, but it’s definitely fixable.

I felt pretty similar to what you described… I just couldn’t get #2 to peak before feeling loss of power which isn’t normal.

Yes, #2 egt was a little higher than I expected but not much. I’d have to pull the data off the jpi (duh, I should’ve downloaded it) and see how much though. What you described sounds plausible, especially if it’s my “mag” plug on that cylinder. The SF advance kind of masks problems with the other plugs because the engine is (almost) firing just on the SF at higher altitudes because of the advance. There’s very little egt rise if I switch to left mag at cruise, lop. The egts go way up and the engine gets rough if I switch to right mag without re-leaning. The mag is working fine, it’s just the difference in timing. The thing I didn’t understand was the slight increase in cht. You guys have definitely given me a place to look.

Thanks, that’s a good point about anything clogging the air/breather hole on the injector making it richer.

Definitely post if you’re able to solve it. I thought Omega made snubbers matched to viscosity (8g being for gas/air) and the next closest one was for oil. 100ll was between the two. Which one are you using? The one I tried was for “light oil” and it didn’t work, although I also caused a leak, so that could have been part of it.

Now how the heck did it get like that?!

What the previous guys said… but also, you don’t “need” to comply with the sb since it’s not an AD. Currently there aren’t any available options, so luckily you can be airworthy with the one you have.

A while back, @PT20J posted Goodyears aircraft tire guidance. It was very detailed with pictures and tires not showing coords were fine. Might want to take a look at it if you can find it.

Yeah, I think that seems reasonable. I tried to think through how one could be richer than normal and nothing really makes sense?

Yes, I have Omega snubbers on my oil and manifold pressure, and they work great. I tried one on the fuel pressure and I caused a small leak (and it didn’t seem to help much), so I took it off. At least on my setup, putting a snubber in the line adds 3 connections because the snubbers are npt fittings and require an adapter on each end to mate with the flared fittings on the fuel line.

IO-360A1A: I fly regularly and use both LOP and Rop depending on the circumstances. I’m usually between 7-12000’, so 60-75% power. I have gamis and the spread is very tight - like 0.1-0.3gph. I also know the typical cht order when leaned for my engine (1,4 cool, 2,3 warmer with 3 warmest). Left mag is SF with advance, right is 300hr bendix. Tempest fine wires all around. Power set to wide open, Ram air on, 2500rpm. So flying home from KFHR yesterday at 9,500 (~11,000 DA), i lean to peak… except #2 won’t peak. It peaks way late. Like 0.5 gph late. Noticeably later than usual. I set the engine to just barely LOP, like #2 is pretty much at peak and everything settles except 2 has the same cht as 3 and it’s egt is much higher, like it’s at peak and 3 is more lop. Cruised for a while, tried again, same result. Of course, I was crossing the Cascades with my family on board. Maybe 10 minutes later, with zero input from me, I see egt on 2 slowly decline to about where it should be and then cht slowly follows to be a normal amount less than #3. Ff stays exactly the same. I didn’t do an inflight mag check but i will next time. what can make a cylinder peak later than normal and the cht and egt read high? It seems that the cylinder would have to be richer than normal?

Mine is very similar. Causes an alarm at 30psi, normally fluctuates between 20-30. Annoying, but (unfortunately) I learned to ignore it. A snubber might be a good idea just so you don’t have to start ignoring engine gages.

Makes you almost wish you had FI for the cold starts, right?!

And who can climb into their Mooney wearing a stiff wool suit and tie?! In Texas heat no less?!

That was pretty standard for Air Force lieutenants when others in the squadron went tdy… add some 3 hole punches, books and other office supplies to the luggage if it was laying around. Bonus points, once i saw the top 3 tell a lt to remove all the underwear from a bag and put it in the freezer. After the departing flight taxied out, the top 3 called them on their aux freq and told them that there were a bunch of underwear found in the freezer. All the flight crews got to wonder who’s it was the whole way to Vegas.

Before you sell and plan to do all your own maintenance, find a shop that will let you help on current annuals. Then take 3 or 4 days off and do everything you want, and supervise what they do. It’s really the best of both worlds because you know everything that’s done, yet you don’t have to do anything you don’t want to or don’t have as good of skills for. But you can personally do everything you want to your specifications. And you get an appreciation for how long it might take to do 100% yourself.