Ragsf15e

As @haissaid, your ipad needs gps. The ones that are cellular capable definitely have gps. If no gps, then you need external like a scout, sentry, strus, etc. what avionics do you have installed, some of them will provide gps to an ipad (gtx345 being one).

Wage rate up to $150 (down here) or temp down to -10c up there?

Definitely want to get that closed and get your 0.5 knots back!

That panel looks awesome and very capable! One question- g3x doesn’t normally have a backup battery, only the g5 does. Is there some kind of aftermarket backup that you have?

Yeah but you provided the excellent documentation which I was too lazy to get!

Yes flt plan page. Push fpl, i have ete and eta set as my data fields. If you push menu there, you might have other data fields as options. Push fpl again to exit. If ete/eta isn’t on the flight plan page, push menu on that page and select your desired data fields for display. This is me giving advice based on using mine, I didn’t look it up, so I’m not saying other data fields are definitely available on fpl page but they might be. @mikey757

I was reading to escape my 7 year olds for a few minutes. I’m going back to them.

I was kind of assuming alternator since it’s an F. Were older Fs made with generators originally?

Just to piggyback… if you do the AI as a Gi-275 (which is a great idea), also do the hsi. They have built in redundancy for Attitude and eliminate the zillion moving parts and failure modes in the current hsi. The 2 gi-275s should be below your $15,000… but probably close. Do both, do it once, enjoy the airplane for a long time.

Do what Skip said for sure. Theres a Zeftronics Troubleshooting guide around here or on their website too. Skip, I thought the ts guide said to expect ~0.5 to 1v less than bus voltage on the field wire with just the master on? @TuomoMooneyFlying one thing to know, many mechanics are not that great at troubleshooting electrical problems. The tests @PT20J outlined, are very easy to do but most will skip them and start replacing parts. I would definitely recommend educating yourself and maybe even helping or doing a few tests to help narrow down the problem. It can get kind of expensive quickly without fixing anything. The system is not that hard though and there are people on here who can easily help you get it right.

Doubtful. It would likely take significant draw at idle. How old is the battery? Has it been capacity checked?

He asked about a doctor possibly signing off on basic med since he’d just had a physical a month before (or something to that effect) and was roundly castigated. Disagreement is ok, but he got dog piled on.

I also have an F and mine shows about 13.8 in idle, 14v at normal power above that. Since you have an f, I assume alternator and not generator? What draw do you have on? Lots of old (non led) lights, pitot heat, landing light, etc might cause this… We need @PT20J…

I have one of my injectors that does similar. We always do the best we can, but definitely don’t over torque it. The hole being down may dribble a little fuel once in a while, But that’s not the end of the world. We did make a sharpie line on the opposite flat from the A Because what the heck, you can’t see the A when it’s pointed straight down and it’s a tiny space so you can’t look under there! The sharpie line on the opposite flat makes it easier to see how close you are.

Also, it’s some kind of piano wire. You can get some silicon spray down onto the wire where it pushes up the vent on top (outside the airplane).

Since we’re reminiscing, I miss @Maraudertoo. Not his ladies so much, but we berated him into leaving and he had something like 25-30 years of ownership experience. He said something people didn’t really agree with and ended on the bottom of a dogpile.

Nothing foolish about that at all. Good story for everyone and how we all learn. Thanks.

Sure you got all the fuel out? 10 gallons hiding?

Well, I do feel sorry for you. But I also know you’ll find a way to fix it. Probably legally too, so this might help the rest of us out!

If it’s truly engaged and not broken, the emer crank will spin like the beejesus when you electrically move the gear. Ask me how I know. You probably would have noticed that. Almost impossible not to. So maybe your system is broken, or maybe it’s not all the way engaged. Might want to open up the belly panel and see if it’s actually engaged.

I have a 2 place one with cannulas. I’m not sure it’s volume, but it lasts a very long time with cannulas and it’s not that big. There’s likely no way around the clutter. I’m not a fan either. I usually just put my bottle on the co pilot seat (if solo) or the back seat. I like to be able to see and adjust the flow meters and check the pressure. My flow adjustment is on the regulator attached to the bottle, so a back of the seat holder would only work on the co pilot seat but I have not tried that. You definitely want a good finger pulse oximeter if you don’t have one.

To be fair, NOT exhaling would have also killed them!

Someone just tried the $100 bill thing on an interstate in Oregon and was politely asked to stop by the state police…

I can say that I have the exact same setup and it works perfectly. Before the g5s, I had a kcs-55a, so I’m thinking mine was already configured for the proper input.

Great, now I replied to a 12-year-old thread.