Ragsf15e

Definitely the rolling G would be bad.

True, but @dkkim73 is right about “gods g” (gravity) causing “extra g” on the aircraft when it’s level. It will still over g in a spiral with just trim, but maybe you can get there quicker by rolling level and pulling…

It’s not really rolling the wings level that’s causing the problem as it will also eventually over g if left in the spiral with the same trim setting. It’s more that the airspeed is rapidly building above what the airplane is trimmed for. In that condition, it will pull excessive G no matter wings level or banked unless you push forward or change the trim.

If you’re ever coming in from the north, Ogden is less busy and has 2 good fbos with rental cars. I like to stay out of the middle of that class B unless I really need to get to slc.

B&c has a backup alternator for pad mount if you remove your vac pump but it’s not approved for us, yet? Maybe field approval? You can/should have good backup for your electric adi, but those battery backup’s exist for g5s, g3x etc.

As @201Steve said, make sure you get an egt rise on both. If the timing is a little different between the two mags, it can act as you described. If both are smooth, it’s fine.

Interesting on the useful. Mine is 1038. When you have some time look very carefully through the old wb and see if they made some math errors. The bladders add a bit, but I have a 3 blade prop which adds. Your instruments add a lot too but Fs are usually closer to 1000 ul. Mine has electric gear and hydraulic flaps.

congrats!! I have a 68F as well, 68-0164. What’s your serial number? Just flew mine today, 500nm with 4 people (2 kids) plus baggage at 11,500! They are awesome machines!

Did it just stop working or were there other symptoms?

I’m through about 700 hours on a set of 40:1 gears and my mechanic says he can see some slight slop but they are still good. Im sure cyles would be a much better metric than hours but a little harder to track. I generally fly long flights and don’t do multiple patterns more than a couple times a year so i think I have low cycles. They will eventually wear and it would be nice not to have to throw the airplane away when they do…

In addition to what others said about reducing the G in the pullup after rolling level, there are two other reasons to push forward and reduce the G load prior to rolling level. First, the airplane (any airplane?) rolls much better with less G load, second, while not published, the rolling G structural limit is generally much less than the published “straight pull” limit. Even in something tame like a Citabria or C-152, you can put a couple Gs on it and see the reduced roll capability. Most aerobatic aircraft have a rolling G limit too. None of this means you need to completely unload and throw everything off the floor, but a quick unload/power reduction, roll level, then feed the g back in gently to get the nose back up works best.

Ours is welded right where yours broke. I’d take it off, make sure your IA approves, and then take it to a local welder.

Flight following certainly helps. Expect the controllers to be busy though because it’s pretty tight between all the MOAs and the military airspace off the coast. I’ve flown through that one before and I just stayed high because it was in the middle of my xc from Tx to eastern Florida. I think I went through at 9500 or maybe 11,500 and it was no issue. Obviously you’ll need to come down to get to kpns, but staying higher when possible keeps you away from most of the training activities.

I wonder if there’s a way to get in touch with @gsxrpilot. I want to say he had a conversion done ~5 years ago, but he hasn’t been around here for a long time. He probably knows though.

No, but all the A&Ps have nice trucks!

That’s a tough old bird that could do aerobatics in his 90s! Even a relatively mild loop or split S is gonna need 3-4 Gs at the bottom! Rip

Looks nice! Did you get rid of the filter after the pump since you got the new style that doesn’t have the plastic vanes?

Retro and sleek all in one! Love it! interior looks great too!

No, it seems reasonable, except the lease is so short that they could raise it significantly each 5 years. Just to play devils advocate, say it raises to $3k lease in 5 years and $10k after 10. Maybe that still works, but I like more certainty with my expensive building on someone else’s land…

Id be interested in one as well. I put a $300 down payment on a $600 intake boot to put on my shelf, this part also seems reasonable to have on the shelf. It would be nice if one of the MSCs would buy 10-20 sets to keep the fleet going though because it’s kind of rare to have to replace them, but if you need it, you’re grounded without.

Eric mentioned it, but the land lease terms are key. Definitely want to know who owns the land, and if it’s not you, how long do you have a lease and how is the renewal process going to work? Most public airports, you can build/own the hangar but the airport owns the land. You might get a 30 or 50 year lease… if you’re buying a 25 year old hangar, you need to know what happens at the end of the lease.

I get that there’s a lot of aerodynamics and design in this, but the basic vfr and ifr recovery techniques still apply perfectly. First, practice instruments a lot so you don’t get in an unintentional spiral. If you do, power off, roll level, pull up (gently). I would expect my instrument students to successfully recover from a (admittedly not near Vne) spiral during unusual attitude training. If we’re not current and end up in a bad situation, or delay the appropriate recovery long enough there are a myriad of ways to hit the ground or rip the wings off any airplane.

Yes, it does both. There’s a mixing box that mixes fresh vent air from the right naca vent and hot air from the heater. Temperature is dependent on how you pull the heat and vent knobs. I was just working on my mixer box last weekend.

Oh man, if it’s cold in the backseat, that vent can blast the heat directly back there too… yeah, that’s a good one to have!

Yeah I needed to think that through better. At least it’s easier to get at that one since it’s not compressed by the gear! Does it easily go right back in the same spot or do you have to put it on jacks and move the gear around to get it positioned right? If the switch doesn’t activate at the right time, it can get ugly I think, but more-so on the older models.