Ragsf15e

Tony and Hank (and the others too... ) - Thanks for your responses. That cleared up my understanding of the mechanism. I'll definitely take the next opportunity when the belly panels are off (no single piece panel here) to check it out. I'll also not take the rigging for granted. That's one of the reasons I had DMax do my pre-buy and annual when I bought it this year. I think I'll keep using a good MSC to keep myself out of trouble. Thanks again! Rags

Yep, I read through the 1968 POH and the gear indications are slightly different than I'm use to in the more "modern" aircraft I fly... The red light in the M20F is on continuously when the gear is retracted. The green light is on when the gear is down and locked. I guess my question is more about where the sensor is for these indications? I realize the gear are mechanically linked, but is there any failure mode that would have a green indication when all 3 weren't completely down? Is the green indication on only 1 gear and it assumes the others? According to the manual, the floor indication works on the same principle as the green light, so it indicates the same thing. Thanks, Rags

Hello, I have a 1968 M20F that was modified with electric gear at the factory in 1968. It has 3 gear indications - a green light and a red light on the panel, and the green "gear down" indicator on the floor between the seats. What exactly do these mean? If the green light is on, are all 3 gear down - i.e. is there a squat switch on all 3 gear and the light doesn't come on unless they are all good? Is there a switch on just one gear and they are all assumed down if the one gear is good? What about the red light? It's on when I pull up the gear... does that mean all my gear are up and the nose gear doors are closed? I'm just curious so that I'm more ready to deal with any faulty indications or problems before they happen. Thanks, Rags

Bucko - I had a very similar experience in Denver earlier this year with my new to me M20F. It was about 8,000' DA, so I leaned prior to takeoff, but I didn't know exactly how much to lean it. Took off with it too close to "max power" and quickly got ~425 on the CHTs and ~220 on the oil temp. I have a JPI930, so I could see it all happening pretty quickly. I increased mixture and all the temps fell right back down toward a normal climb. Since then I've played with the "target EGT" method on other high DA takeoffs and found ~1250-1300 EGT works for my plane. When leaning prior to takeoff, I can get the EGT up to about 1450 or so, but then I enrich it back to 1250-1300. Climb temps work out just fine. I'd encourage you to try this technique and see what target EGTs work for your setup. Like the previous posts said, this temp should be somewhere around the sea level, full rich takeoff EGT. Good Luck! Rags

Andy - That would make sense. I'll take a look at the probe type next week while changing the oil. Thanks!

I've only had my "new" bird for about 2 months, so I'm still getting use to her, but I've noticed that the #1 cylinder runs much cooler than the other 3. Like 50+ degrees cooler. Is this ok? Is it just because it's up front and getting the lion's share of the airflow? Is something wrong? I've got a 1968 M20F. The engine has ~590 hours SMOH (but it was 15 years ago). It was modified with GAMIs about a year ago (~.4 spread). I've been running it ~20 LOP once I get up to altitude and it seems to make good power and is smooth. It has an EDM-930 which I downloaded and will post my recent flight which was just tooling around the local area (up to 6,500) and then a few night patterns. You can definitely see that #1 is much cooler from start all the way through the flight though. #2/#3 are usually about the same and much hotter than #1. I set the graph bar to a time when I had it leaned for cruise so the temps on the upper right were fairly stable. Any thoughts?

You guys are awesome. Thanks for the info - I wasn't aware of the new antennas. Couple of good points about waiting to see how the whole part 23 TSO vs non-TSO equipment shakes out and reasons not to remove the vacuum system too. Thanks again guys, your experience and knowledge are awesome. What did people do before the internet? Rags

Thanks for the feedback. I want to get rid of the vacuum system because I like the reliability of the electric and/or solid state ADIs. I'd also prefer not to have to worry about the vacuum pump going out every so often. Definitely moving the VSI under the altimeter. That was the first question I asked when looking at the aircraft, but the owner was ready (he'd asked too). The King HSI that's in it is square all the way back and won't fit in the spot under the ADI so it had to swap with the VSI. Actually the GPSS was one of the things I was wondering about too... I think it's standard on the Aspen PRO, so I'm guessing that will be through the Aspen, but I'm not sure. There are lots of reasons I'm looking for a shop in Texas that has done a few of these in Mooneys... Maybe Chris will chime in if he's already done something similar?

I knew when I bought my "new" 1968 M20F model a couple months ago there would be a few upgrades I'd like to do. She's actually got a very nice panel, good interior, and serviceable paint, but after a few recent IFR flights around Texas, I think I'm about ready to put in an Aspen PRO PFD 1000. I think I'll be $$ limited to just the one screen for now. I was hoping someone out there would have some experience with this and give me some round number estimates or even a recommendation for avionics shops with Mooney/Aspen experience (I'm based in SW Texas). Here's what I've got to hook up to it... STEC 30 with Alt hold, Garmin 430, and a Garmin SL30 #2 NAV/COM. I'd like to remove the whole vacuum system when I do this, so I understand I'll have to purchase an electric B/U ADI. What am I missing? Anyone have any clues how much it will cost, where I should go to do it, or what else I need to do to get rid of the vacuum system? Thanks so much for your help, I'll attach a current panel picture just in case you want to see what the previous owner did for me (thank you!)! Rags

As usual, thanks for the inputs! I appreciate your time and thoughts. I'm so excited to get in my new plane, I'm sort of thinking past the insurance checkout, but if I'm paying that much, I hope to get something out of it!

Hello - Does anyone have contact info for a CFI in near KGGG (Longview) for an insurance checkout on a "new" M20F? How much should something like that cost? Thanks!

Marauder - have you tried it out? How's the construction? Seem sound? what about the mess - does it look like it's going to leak or anything? Durable for a couple years? Thanks for the PIREP!

Thanks for the comments and the videos - exactly what i was looking for!

Guys (and girls) - I'm going to be a new Mooney owner in the next few months... just gotta find exactly the right one to pull the trigger. I've read a lot on what to look for, but I'm still wondering about the significance of the compression values. I know basically what they are (compression in each cylinder), but what is that telling me about the health of the engine? What if I see an aircraft that has about 1000 hrs SMOH and it's 71, 75, 78, 76? Does that 71 mean the engine's not healthy? Something's about to get expensive? Thanks for your advice and expertice.

Anyone else got a PIREP on these (other than Phillip, not that I don't trust him)? I'd just like to hear if it works ok, seems reliable, doesn't leak, etc. I'm comparing these to the Artic Blast/Ice which are $200 more. Not sure what else you're getting for $200 if anything? Thanks!

I'm a little late to the party on this topic, but would like to add my 2 cents... I previously flew F-15Es and we could easily have a weight change of 35,000lbs (80,000lb max gross weight aircraft) between takeoff and landing (combination of fuel burned and ordinance dropped). In the pattern, we flew only AOA, nothing else. This made sense because the critical AOA of the wing never changed, but the stall speed (level, unaccelerated flight) changed dramatically. Now I'm flying the T-6 Texan II and teaching young Air Force pilots to fly. We (only) have 1,000 pounds of gas compared to a ~6,000lb airplane. The speed (level, unaccelerated flight) for critical AOA doesn't change as much. However, we teach using a combination of AOA and airspeed in the pattern. We have a minimum airspeed during the turn to final and a minimum airspeed once established on final. At the same time, there is a minimum AOA that you can't go below - i.e. you must fly the faster of the AOA or airspeed. In this way, the AOA only becomes a factor in two circumstances - First, you're heavweight (i.e. near max gross weight). Second, your bank, turn rate, pitch, airspeed combination in your turn to final add up to nearing the critical angle of attack. This is where the AOA really helps - I have seen students at a normally safe airspeed, but a very unsafe AOA by demanding too much out of the aircraft (too tight a turn DW to Final). Remember, you can easily stall your Mooney at a "safe" airspeed by pulling around the turn too hard (bank + G). AOA will warn you there. Hopefully soon, I'll be a Mooney owner and get a little more "cred" here, but thanks for letting me post my thoughts...

I have a question that plays right into this discussion between buying the really nice F or the middle of the road J... is it harder to get parts for the F because it's likely 10-15 years older or do the parts/maintenance costs work out about the same?