Ragsf15e

I think it’s really important for people to keep their hand flying skills strong while realizing that managing an autopilot during typical ifr flight is probably the safest way to operate. In the very rare circumstance where you have a gps outage over an ifr field at altitudes that affect your autopilot, it’s time to use the hand flying skills. That should not be the end of the world or even cause a second thought. If it does, you probably shouldn’t be flying ifr... I use the autopilot all day long, but if I will crash the plane without it, I probably need to rethink my plan. Has anyone actually had a gps outage in the terminal area/altitude of an ils equipped airport? Outage areas expand with altitude, so that would mean the jamming is very close to the airfield.

Curious about that though... you can’t just replace the adi with a -275 and then remove your aspd, alt, and vsi can you? So a 6 pack could go to a 3 pack? Just an adi (with incorporated aspd, altitude, and vsi), a turn/bank, and an hsi? I guess I thought you could use the —275 to replace a dedicated aspd if it’s a dedicated aspd display. Likewise with altitude and vsi. Is that wrong?

Syn vis, flight path marker, shorter battery life. Maybe I missed a few more? The options cost extra too.

Thanks that would be helpful. I currently have what looks like Home Depot weather strip on the airplane side. It’s actually not bad except it really gets torn up by the door support along the bottom.

Skates, how does it go over the door slide attachment on the bottom of the door? Does it get torn up there and where the slide compresses into it? thanks!

And I should learn to read the install manual first, post second. He’s correct, internal gps is supposed to be disabled for a certified installation with a panel mount gps.

Interesting... I guess I thought you had both gps receivers enabled, but it only used the internal one if it lost the gns/gtn panel mounted. I’ll reread the install instructions.

Different beast, but I find the weight (or lack there of) is a significant factor for cruise speed in my F. Obviously fuel flow, altitude, temp, etc are important to equalize for a comparison, but I think things like weight, balance, and prop blades make their own significant difference.

Wowza, $1,850?! That’s gotta be a super awesome, self installing door seal! Might want to update the Mooney section to say $695-$1850. Right now it looks like the only one is $1850 until you get into selecting the options.

Mine has those in the back, bolts in the front. Both options work just fine.

Ahh, thanks. I’ll try that.

I don’t think that’s thread drift at all, one of my worst scratches is on the inside, right where the glare shield contacts the windscreen when installing it. Getting the glare shield in/out is like playing chicken... I’ve got to bend the 50 year old glare shield enough to install/remove it without scratching the windscreen, but not so much that I snap it in half. Couldn’t they have designed a 2 piece glare shield?! Anyway, I’m not even worried about that scratch. If I fixed it, I guarantee I’d hit it again with the glare shied.

Agreed, but how much extra install work to connect to the gns and adsb? Also, I wonder what -275 add ons you need to do all the mfd, traffic, etc in addition to the cdi? Also, once configured as a cdi, can they be switched at will to other pages? Not knocking your plan because I like it a lot, just wondering what roadblocks will be?

So you probably know this, but the g5 can be a legal encoder now. My shop was installing mine and asked if I wanted them to remove my old encoder... of course I said you can’t! But they triple checked, it’s added to the stc now.

11 hours seems pretty high. It’s a simple mag swap. Hardest part is running the power wire back to the battery if it’s in the tail like mine. The interior is not fun to take out/put back. Mine works well. Breaking in a new cylinder though so not flying it high or lean to see any of those benefits yet.

Thanks guys, that’s helpful. I’m gonna keep doing some research and try to wait for @Skates97 pics and experience. It seems like it should be easy, but I think it’s a lot harder than it looks and it’s something that can easily be permanently screwed up with a good bit of $$ and time to put in a new one.

Thanks. That seems to be one of the recommended kits. Id really like to find someone who’s used it. Good to hear that it can work depending on what his windshield looked like before.

Thanks for the thoughts and expertise. I definitely agree that it may be more than I’m willing to tackle. I definitely don’t want to make anything worse as it’s not terrible now.

Yes, the lpaero site has some helpful information, but they basically recommend all the commercial products and then say be careful... which is all probably accurate. I guess I’m looking for some personal experience. Did you use power tools or by hand? Was it easy to cause more trouble or relatively safe for a beginner? Any idea where to find someone who does this for a living? After doing this would you tackle it again or hire someone?

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but does anyone have a polish product and procedure to recommend for a windshield in need of tlc? It’s not terrible yet, but noticeable and annoying. Couple bigger scratches that might be permanent, but I’d be happy getting the smaller imperfections fixed. My problem is I’m no pro with doing stuff like this and don’t want to make it worse or waste time. I’d actually take it to someone if I could find someone close. Thoughts?

Agree that testing the pucks is worthy. Could still be sticking switches. The “gunk” in the switches seemed to get worse with cold in my case. Really it’s either pucks or switches. Cleaning the switches is real easy, especially while it’s up on jacks having the pucks tested. BTW, this problem likely won’t replicate in your A&Ps heated hanger.

I think I found the place on MS. Waltham aircraft clocks in Ozark, AL. I just looked, it was $212 for the “overhaul”. Came back looking and working like new.

Ahh yes, but “permanent display “? Does that mean that something like the av-20s can’t be a clock because time is not displayed permanently- ie, no time shows on the ADI screen? What about my gns430w... time is “permanently” buried 4 button clicks away. My head hurts. Btw, I just paid $300 to have my mechanical windup clock mounted in the yoke refurbished, so I’m legal!

My 68 got electric gear at the factory when it was born and doesn’t have a squat switch. It does have the airspeed switch. Ive also had a similar problem a couple years ago in very cold weather and found my up/down switches in the belly to be gunked up and sticking. Cold made it worse. Cleaning them worked. It might be your donuts, but not necessarily, so I’d do a little more troubleshooting before spending lots o $$ for all new pucks. Generally old pucks stay compressed in the cold and thus don’t expand to (de)activate the squat switch. If you left from a heated hanger and the gear went up, it’s not sitting compressed, so that shouldn’t happen unless you landed somewhere really cold and let it sit (with weight on it for compression). When exactly did it happen in flight?

Interesting, what skins do you mean? My 68f has panels all down the belly with hundreds of screws. They allow access to pretty much everything. Do you have a different arrangement?