Ragsf15e

I had mine extended and installed a cotter pin exactly as you described. I really hate it slipping out and ending up on my butt in front of a busy ramp. Again.

Personally, I’d just do the 345. Remote version is a nice touch to keep the panel clean. You probably have ~3 or 4 gps in your airplane every time you fly already. Yes, only 1 is certified for approaches, but if that fails, my phone, ipad, and sentry ADSB will all get me where I need to go. As far as approaches, there are plenty of ils out there to count on as a backup.

+1 on takeoff flaps and 90mph instrument approaches. Not much reason to change flap settings after I that. She lands real good with takeoff flaps.

You’re not the only one. My jpi 930 MAP fluctuates about.5” too. I’ve grown use to it. My FF fluctuates a bit as well. %HP and other readings are stable. I did contact jpi support and they want me to send in the unit for updated software to fix these issues. If that doesn’t work, they move on to the snubber solutions. I just haven’t had a good time to pull mine and send it back.

Well then you’re good!! Go fly at night in lifr, you already had your engine issue!

Tried Oreilly auto parts on the way to fly home from KBOI. No luck. Ill get one on Amazon and check it. This is what I saw on the way home (100 ROP, about 147ktas because you know you’d look).

So is there an a simple voltmeter I can put in the lighter? That would be a good check.

Thanks Yetti. Terminals should be ok since I just installed it but I’ll check. Got the battery in February and it was from October 2018, so that seemed ok. I was wondering about the JPI too... is there an easy way and place to check the actual voltage with the engine running? Jpi is only indication I have.

Thanks clarence. I haven’t, but I’ll take a look at it. Yeah, I don’t think it’s adjustable at all. Last flight was 1.9 hours at 22mp, 2500rpm, 13.1 volts. I can download the data tomorrow when I get home.

Hello, I’m not so good at troubleshooting electrical stuff, so some simple steps to start before I hand off to my mechanic would be awesome... I have a JPI930, and it shows 13.0-13.3 volts pretty consistently. If I put any draw on the system, it sits at 13.0. I’m talking transmission, pitot heat, LED strobes, any one of those is noticeable. Generally sitting at ~3-4 amps as I don’t have much draw. Battery is new as of 2 months ago. PP alternator was new from last October annual. VR is Zeftronics R15300. To be honest, I’m pretty sure it was already doing this before the new alternator and battery... According to my limited knowledge and the battery instructions, I should see more like 13.8-14, no?

Fellas, as a cfii, I can assure you that you can log PIC during all your instrument training... guess what, the cfii can as well. Yep, you can both log pic as long as you are sole manipulator and the cfii is providing instruction. Even in imc on an ifr flight plan. If you still need xc pic time you can log that while getting ifr training too, just do an approach and landing at a destination 50nm away. All this is covered under below links. It requires you be licensed to act as pic... so not a student pilot. Now, it still wouldn’t hurt to have the cfii named on your insurance as he’s providing instruction and I could see the insurance company coming after him if something happens... gear up after an approach to mins? https://www.aopa.org/training-and-safety/learn-to-fly/legacy-pages/aviation-subject-report-logging-pilot-in-command-pic-time Also covered in the FAA CFI magazine about a year ago. Let me know if anyone wants me to dig that one up.

Get some clarification from your insurance company. As long as you’re a licensed Private pilot or more, you can be PIC during all your IFR training. Even in actual IMC. Your instructor probably wants subrogation coverage or his own cfi insurance, but shouldn’t need to qualify as PIC or transition pilot on your airplane... you’re not doing this during your transition hours are you?

Sheesh, I just wanna know how something like this could happen so I can try to prevent it happening to me or someone else. I knew the nose truss could be damaged by oversteering during towing, but could it result in this? Is it something else preventable or is it simply a “big pothole”? I definitely wouldn’t pile on, and I understand if there are some kind of legal reasons not to talk about it, but I also understand why people want to know. “There but for the grace of god go I...

I have that setup with a gns430. Works great. Do you have altitude hold?

Awesome, really helpful. So, if I read it right, my 430w output is arinc, so if I have it tracking VLOC for an ILS, it will output that signal on the arinc and the tt will track it. The Cherokee driver you referenced... what type of approach? Can it do that on an ILS as long as it’s receiving the ils signal from an arinc source? Also, what happens if you have a legacy HSI like a KI525? Can you use the heading bug to direct the tt for say vectors? Or no because it’s the old analog signal and it’s not being put through an Aspen or G3x to “upgrade “ to arinc?

I have a question about the tt... can it track a non-gps signal? I understand it’s not certified for approaches (yet), but can it even track an ILS or VOR or is it just a GPS baby? I’ve got a GNS430, so easy to switch between gps and vor/lic.

Honestly, that’s pretty darn good for a new shop, first annual and the shop rate is very competitive. Some may go better in the future. Some may go much worse. If you go with the same shop, he’ll be less likely to find things installed wrong next time.

Yep I’d buy that. I guess the point is, leaning doesn’t cause damage. Leaning to the wrong place on your icp curve could given the right circumstances. It’s just that we have to use cht and egt and some educated guesswork to know where we are on the curve. If jpi could give us an icp measurement in the air that would be awesome!

“Leaning” isn’t causing detonation. Setting a fuel flow that leaves you too close to peak egt depending on your power setting can cause detonation, sure. However, continue to lean past peak egt, outside the “red box” approximately 20 lop or less than 65% power, and you are again in a good place. Continue to lean past that and performance will deteriorate but you won’t hurt anything, it’ll just run cooler and cooler. Eventually it will just shut down.

While researching my first w&b, I found the original-337 for the gear mod. It was actually the first new w&b. Done 1 week after the factory test flight. The electric gear was done by Dugosh in Kerrville. They must have done a bunch the exact same way.

Be careful with that assumption... I rechecked my original documentation after the above discussion. 1968 F model. They weighed the airplane at the factory and then subtracted the weight of full useable fuel and full oil (15lbs). This was the first w&b which is the basis for all the rest of the adjustments through the years. So my weight doesn’t include oil. I generally use w&b pro app, and I have it set for 10 lbs of oil which is about 6 qts. For your M20R, I agree, oil is included based on the year of the airplane. However, they don’t have to drain it to exclude it in the old ones. Just subtract the weight of 8 qts or whatever amount is in there. As stated above it depends on year of the airplane. It’s worth checking the original documents. Or better yet (maybe) getting it reweighed. I’m pretty sure there’s bigger mistakes that 10-15 lbs of oil in there!

I think you’re right, but I’ll have to recheck mine again... 68F and I was pretty sure oil was included. Making me double check, probably a good thing.

Keep in mind the rules/techniques for certificated w&b changed a bit through the 60s and 70s. Some may not have oil counted in basic empty weight, but later models likely do. It should include full oil in later models. Only way to know for sure is read your original documents.

Could be all kinds of things, because absolute egt numbers are relatively meaningless like Carusaum said... that being said, it seems odd... have the chts remained about the same? Is it generating the same power? Climb/airspeed?

Doesn’t the dual screen setup work off one GSU 25 ADHRS though? So the screens back each other up if a screen fails, but you could still be on the G5 real quick if the AHRS were to fail? I may be misreading that though...