Ragsf15e

Good therapy.

Im interested in these too as I’m about to go all electric. How does it tie into the electrical system? Does it just cover alternator failure? How many amps?

Mike Busch has a good article about tracing oil consumption. It’s either leaking, coming into the cylinder(s) through the valves, or the piston rings aren’t working right (or are broken). Those are basically the only 3 ways oil escapes. Each leaves a different symptom. Plugs, belly, and exhaust pipe are areas to investigate for residue. Do a compression check too... Now I’m no mechanic, so the above is simplified, but that’s the gist. Do some research before you take it to someone so you know roughly how they might diagnose it and what the symptoms they find might mean. Example... lots of oil on the belly out the breather tube may mean you’ve got a problem with blowby, potentially your rings. You’d probably want to do a compression check or boroscope to narrow down which cylinder.

I’m gonna use “lead mettalic” color on my belly. It can’t show on that, can it?

Real nice. I like the dark blue on the belly. I’m pretty anal and exhaust stains on white are really tough to remove as the paint ages. Dark blue will probably still look great.

In fact, these two commonly taught techniques are doing the same thing, using a forward slip to align the nose with the runway and bank to kill lateral drift. They only differ on when the are applied... final or flare. Just remember the RAP acronym and apply the controls in this order... Rudder to align nose with runway , Ailerons to stop lateral drift (will be opposite direction of rudder, thus slipping), Power added to compensate for uncoordinated flight. Probably no extra power needed if you do it in the flare. In either case, land aligned with the centerline, no side drift, likely upwind wheel first.

Exactly right!

I’m not trying to be a jerk and I don’t know everything... however, “weather vane” is generally something that can happen on the ground. Usually after a crosswind landing or possibly early in a takeoff roll. Typically when aircraft speed is lower. It can generally be controlled easily with correct inputs-especially if the nose is on the ground as you’ll have steering. During takeoff roll, ailerons turned into the wind and rudder to hold centerline are important. It’s possible, but pretty difficult to run out of rudder during takeoff. If you find yourself pointing somewhere or drifting somewhere you don’t want to go AFTER takeoff, you have a technique issue. Either more practice or a flight with a cfi should straighten you out. After takeoff it doesn’t matter how much rudder you have. Unlike landing in a crosswind, after taking off, you should stay coordinated. If a crosswind is pushing you off centerline, make a small (like 5 degrees) turn into the wind, then rollout. Yes, it looks like you’re flying sideways, but the ball should be centered and you’ll be holding right rudder for the climb. Landing requires a slip (ball not centered) and landing on one wheel to keep side loads down on the gear while maintaining centerline. After takeoff, you can crab into the wind to hold centerline which is much more efficient. How’s that sound?

I have a GTX345 hooked up to a gns430w. I get audio and visual alerts, but the aircraft are surprisingly close when it alerts. Like inside a mile, coaltitude, closing. They have been very accurate, however if it alerts and I wasn’t already looking at the traffic, I move the airplane. I had a guy in a Kodiak climb aggressively out of Sandpoint Idaho as I cruised by at about 5,000’AGL. I got “Traffic, 1 oclock low” just before I got a face full of big turboprop coming up from below the copilot side, maybe 15 L aspect. Spooked my wife and me both. I would love to see the alert parameters but have not been able to find them.

I’ve seen new ones on sale at lasar. Call and ask, they’ll help. They are pricey for a steel tube, so breathe a bit first... @Alan Fox May have a used one, but realize that they are open to the elements and every one I’ve seen is in some state of serious corrosion from the inside out.

Ahh, yes. Thought they changed that when they made the G5 able to use two nav sources recently. I was still thinking about leaving out the cdi for the SL30 since I so rarely use it and it has the internal one, but I’d also understand why you kept it. Nice backup to an awesome panel!

Well said. Honestly, the C E F & G are close enough to be about the same performance and cost as Bonal said. There’s some personal preference in there with J bars and injected vs carb and maybe a few knots different between a G and an E, but honestly they are close enough in performance and cost. C and E have a little less gas. F and G are a little longer, mostly in the backseat.

Looks nice! I was thinking about doing almost exactly the same. I’ve got the same avionics as you and stec 30. Curious, why keep the cdi for the SL30? Could hook both sl30 and gps into the g3x. Now since they are both digital. In an emergency, the sl30 has built in cdi functionality too.

Why you want to own is definitely a good question because it’s very near impossible to make an airplane purchase that makes financial sense. It’s a money pit, but there are still reasons to own...

Wait, that’s not right, the G5 gets nav and distance data from the 430... that means data goes GPS-G5. Maybe it supplies temp too?

How does the IFD get CAS and mag heading or do you have to input that just like the 430?

Yeah, I use that function on the 430 all the time, but that’s like two knob twists and a couple button pushes. Plus, I have to put my snacks down and wipe my fingers.

Dang.

So the G5 has some cool new capabilities with TAS and winds, however, it seems you need a gad13 computer, and a temp probe. Call me crazy, but I don’t want temp probes sticking out all over the airplane. I already have one feeding the JPI 930. The 930 and my garmin 430w are connected and exchange airdata through a serial connection. Temp seems to be part of that because the 430 temp always matches the jpi. Does anyone think there’s a way to pass the temp from the 430w to the g5 since they are connected anyway?

I have had an F for 5 years. Average has been ~$18k per year including fuel for 80hrs per year. Had a couple small upgrades in there for waas and adsb. 2 cylinders and a Prop overhaul too. My hangar is $250/month and my insurance is $1000/year. I’ve had an msc annual for $10k, and a local IA annual for $3500. It’s a crapshoot.

No doubt. Bluetooth to my phone be real nice. Be nice to have it adjustable less than their established max curve back to the dataplate standard advance too.

I was wondering this too. Definitely worth calling them, I’m sure they’ll have the answer... I guess I was thinking the N version, but now I’m not sure.

I like my AeroLeds. Had one fill with water and company was real easy to deal with. Replaced right away and it was from a previous owner. https://aeroleds.com/pulsar-n-series-certified/

Yes, but someone ought to lock his account out of all the threads ranting about BK! Except he won’t have access to anything. EDIT: This was sarcasm and meant to be funny. Welcome aboard! More info/options is always better!

What’s the gist of it? Did they prefer one over the other? I tried to read for myself but they won’t let me!